Hi All:

Any way to clean old oxidation off a mottled HR pen? I just picked up a nice Mabie Todd eyedropper and under the cap looks so much nicer then the bodie of the pen. Any way to help fix that or is it best just to leave it be?

I would contact Giovanni (Tryphon) about his hard rubber restoration service.... it is supposed to be the best available.... I believe that Richard Binder is also using this process..

Do they just buff the oxidation off? or is there another method to clean them?

No the oxydation it not buffed off... it is (I beleive) a chemical process that returns the BHR to it's original condition and protects it from further oxydation.
Read the link to Giovanni's restoration page... he explains it a whole lot better than I ever will....
But the before and after pics will amaze you...

OK, now my legal disclaimer.
This process is not for everyone. If you don't like the idea of restoring the pen by chemical means, don't do it. If you do restore the pen using this process and then decide to sell it, please advise the purchaser that the pen was restored.
We all have our opinions about what constitutes restoration of vintage pens. You need to make your own informed decisions.

However, I will say this... In MY person opinion, I would restore an oxydized BHR pen. Especially if the markings are still clear and crisp.

Tom;

Read his post again - it is mottled HR not BHR.

You can buff done the outer layer if it isn't chased. Generally, HR is what it is. If you plan to use it much you will be expossing it to UV and it will continue to oxidize. Preservationist store HR in the dark under consistant humidification.

Roger W.

I thought he was referring to how it looks now...
I was not aware that Mabie Todd early eyedroppers were anything other than BHR...
Sorry.

It is an interesting process, I've never heard of cleaning rubber like this. Looking at the process he is basically restoring the rubber back to its original form, thus I assume that this process doesn't change the texture/feel of the rubber from original. I am thinking about an alternative to tobacco pipe stems which are frequently puffed, which damaged the nomenclature and rounds off the edges, the price is probably partially what keeps pipe folks from using it.

I have been asked many times to reblacken pipe stems and also musical instrument mouthpieces.
Because of the chemistry involved, I do not want to apply my G-10 treatment to objects that spend a lot of time in a person's mouth. My process was developed with pens in mind and does a wonderful job of restoring faded BHR pens to their former glory.

As far as mottled hard rubber is concerned, because there is more than one color involved (mostly red and black/brown, but also green and blue) the only solution is to gently rub away the oxidised layer. This, of course, will reduce surface detail in a chased pen and also reduce imprints, etc. sao it is not a harmless process as is my G-10, which does not remove material, does not cause a build-up of pigment on the surface and actually protects the hard rubber from further decay.
When I developed the G-10 process for BHR, I wanted a process that had NO EFFECT whatsoever on the surface detail, and that target was met.
I am currently developing a new polish that is optimised for restoring mottled hard rubber, as well as another special polish optimised for celluloid pens. They should be ready from the factory that makes them to our formula within one month and will be added to the existing polishes in our online catalog. The mottled hard rubber polish removes the oxidised layer and smoothens the newly exposed surface, restoring a very natural looking appearance. It does, however, remove some material and users should be aware of that fact.

Excellent! That was what I was looking for. I can wait a month <G>. And to the best of my knowledge, Mabie Todd did in fact make MHR eyedroppers, all the markings look correct.

since in your original post, you wonder if you should leave the pen be---i heartily say YES.

i would not use any form of abrasive action, such as cloths to wipe the oxidation off, as the swan figure imprint on the cap will get worn rather quickly.

the oxidation on the pen is like melanin in the skin, it is the pen's natural reaction to UV, protecting the pen from being affected by further oxidation. if you remove this layer, a new one will form, and so on.

If you are exploring various methods to restore the original color and durable finish to faded BHR Pens, don't overlook Pensbury Manor Black Hard Rubber Pen Potion No.9. I am surprised that none of the replyers have mentioned it. That's what I get for missing a fe pen shows!

This Black Hard Rubber Dye has been used by over 150 restorers and hobbyists in both the PMBHRPPNO.9 format and as GREAT KNOBS! for the antique car people dashboard knobs. It is a do-it-yourself project material that has proven very satisfactory with not one single return or camplaint. A $14.50 bottle will re-dye about 20 pens. It uses the same checmistry and ingredients that the Hard Rubber is made of. AND it is a reversible process, which has been the hallmark requirement of restorers who would not use it unless it was.

Just another way to go.

No disclaimer here. On the contrary, I make the stuff. See it at

www.pensburymanor.com

Syd the Wahlnut

So long as we are talking about hard rubber. Many already know on this and the other lists, I did a lot of research in 2000-2 regarding hard rubber. The research involved had me practically become a student apprentice to the owner of the 88 year old Bay Rubber Company that belonged to a Rotary brother of mine.

In the last year I did come across a clear checmical process that restores the red and black hard rubber pens often called MHR (Mottled Hard Rubber). While I have been using it on my own items for the past 2 years with great success, I never offered the service to the public. Mostly because I am a commercial banker all day and the Wahlnut at night on weekends when not otherwise occupied as directed by she who must be obeyed. Anyway, if anyone is ineterested you may contact me back channel about it. This process is one that I do here in my workroom and is not a do-it-yourself method. No abrasives are involved except in the final light buffing at 12000 grit - hardly an abrasive. If your pen is a common user grade you are welcome. If yours is a valuable collector pen...fergetaboudit because:

ALL OF MY BHR RHR AND BMHR RESTORATIVE INSTRUCTIONS OR SERVICES ADMONISH ALL POTENTIAL "RESTORERERS" TO BE AWARE THAT IN MANY CASES THE PENS MAY BE MORE VALUABLE BOTH ECONOMICALLY AND INTRISICALLY IF LEFT ALONE. I DISCOURAGE AND IN SOME CASE FLAT REFUSE TO "RESTORE" VALUABLE OR RARE PENS. MY PROCESSES ARE DESIGNED FOR THE RESTORATION OF USER GRADE PENS TO LIKE NEW CONDITION TO ENCOURAGE AND FOSTER THE USE OF THESE PENS WHERE THEY WOULD JUST LIE IN A DRAWER IN THEIR DETERIORATED CONDITION. These pens need to be used.

There have been long and hearfelt debates on the propriety of restoring the color to faded pens. And the debate is not over by a longshot. However, for the work-horse, more or less common pens that we refer to as daily users, I don't see the problem with making them attractive again.

I've recently used Syd's potion on three extremely oxidised (and fairly commonplace) BHR pens. The results look great, and I'm using the pens extensively, just to see how the finish holds up. Will be posting a review with pictures soon.

Syd wrote: "MY PROCESSES ARE DESIGNED FOR THE RESTORATION OF USER GRADE PENS TO LIKE NEW CONDITION TO ENCOURAGE AND FOSTER THE USE OF THESE PENS WHERE THEY WOULD JUST LIE IN A DRAWER IN THEIR DETERIORATED CONDITION. These pens need to be used.

There have been long and hearfelt debates on the propriety of restoring the color to faded pens. And the debate is not over by a longshot. However, for the work-horse, more or less common pens that we refer to as daily users, I don't see the problem with making them attractive again."

That is a sane and healthy point of view, Syd! Very interesting to hear about your new process for restoring MHR pens.

best, Dan

Hi all,

This topic information seems to me a little obscure. Not a word about the process itself ...

For the desmay or joy of all, I post my suggestion for oxidated HR pens:

1 - let it be;

2 - if You must do something Yourself, my way is as follows: take the pen appart, take aside the metal parts (namely gold ones) and drop the pen barrel, cap and other HR parts on a solution of bleach - it takes some time. Then, buff out the yellowish stuff .

Very important Disclamer - use at Your own risk.


Cheers

rusty

Hi all,

Just to mention that, offcourse, I don't have any reproach to the cleaning products out there in the market - I just don't use them.

rusty

Actually, there is an important clarification to be made here. There is no process to return BHR to it's original condition, which would involved somehow de-oxidizing the hard rubber. G-10 process is a dyeing process that return BHR to it's original color without otherwise affecting the condition of the hard rubber.

I will let others with more knowledge address bleaching, but my understanding is that it is fairly damaging to the surface of the HR.

John