Are Oblique nibs better for cursive??

[chad234]

I have never used an Oblique nib, I find myself in need of ordering a new nib for a a Pelikan 400. I have an array of nibs already, and wanted something different.

 

I found this chart of Pelikan nibs, I am intrigued by the Oblique, but wanted some thoughts on it before I decided to order.

 

http://www.swisherpens.com/Newpens/Pelikan/Nib_Chart.html

 

My preference in writing is for smoothness over line variation if I must make that compromise.

 

I have some Cursive Italic nibs from Richard Binder (Excellent) and a factory 18K stub nib from Waterman, how does the oblique Pelikan nib write in relation to those?

 

Secondly, does the M600 line use the same nib as the M800? Can they be interchanged? The reason I ask is that I have an M600 that would be wonderful with an M800 Cursive italic nib that I have, but don't want to risk damaging the threads or the nib by improper placement.

 

In that vein, if a nib is rather stuck in the barrel (does not want to unscrew), how does one go about loosening it?

 

Thanks for all your help and input. . .

 

Chad

Edited March 24, 2006 by chad234

[chad234]

Never mind the interchange question, I found Richard Binder's excellent chart!!

[Leslie J.]

A factory stock oblique Pelikan nib will be nothing like a custom ground nib from Mr. Binder. It might give a smooth wet line, but probably no line variation at all. Speaking from experience.

[Roger]

Hi Chad,

 

With your preference for smooth over variation, my pick would be stubs. They will give good variation, yet offer the most latitude in writing styles, and user eccentricities. Recognizing my own lack of patience and writing abilities, they are my choice, also.

 

M600 Pel nibs will not interchange with M800. M800 and M1000 each have a discrete nib for that model alone. The M600 nib/feed assemblies will interchange with the M200, and M400 Pels. The aesthetics, however of a M600 nib in an M200 pen and visa versa may not appeal to you, though.

 

There are some exceptions to the above, but I'll let others, more knowledgable, point them out.

 

All your questions can be answered by spending several days reading Richard Binder's website in its entirety. Richard Binder's Website

 

Good luck.

[Betty]

All those Raves about Richard's customized nibs...I'm really tempted to try, but is it worth the massive price difference between a factory nib and a Binder nib?

[memphislawyer]

Betty: I felt that the only way to know for sure, with me, was to actually get one and write with it. So I am having Deb Kinney take a medium nib on a Visconti Van Gogh into what she said would be a 0.8 italic. I don't really know what that means, even after reading Richard's stuff, but I am thinking this: it will produce great line variation and even shading characteristics, but I will have to pay attention to the angle of writing with it. I think that with italics, the angle is more of a factor to get the line variation than with a stub, but that the stub has less variation even if you write in the sweet spot zone.

 

Am I right?

 

Sam

[Roger]

All those Raves about Richard's customized nibs...I'm really tempted to try, but is it worth the massive price difference between a factory nib and a Binder nib?

Your least expensive way to try, Betty, (assuming that you have a Pel M200 or M400 in your stable) is to purchase one of Richard's customized nibs in steel. That'll only cost about twice what the standard steel nibs cost and if you don't like it, unscrew it and sell it!

 

Nothing is forever in this interest.

[KCat]

factory obliques for pelikans are little more than slightly angled ball-tipped nibs (not "ballpoints"). I find them comfortable, and similar to the MB oblique nib. But as Leslie pointed out - they will not give you any line variation and the "feedback" that some of us greatly enjoy in an oblique or demi-oblique (about 8-degrees vs. 15) is not really there.

 

Yes, IMO, a custom nib is worth the price. And with interchangeable nibs like Pelikan, a low risk as they are always appreciated by FP nuts.

[FrankB]

A good way to try a nib style is to get one, like the oblique, in steel. Pelikan's interchangable nibs allow for that kind of experimentation. Give it w whirl, and let us know your impressions.

 

For myself, I have been writing with fountain pens for decades and I just don't get what oblique nibs are about. I have held oblique nibs every way from Sunday and never gotten significant line variation. I have always preferred a form of italic or stub.

 

One of my consistent peevs with Pelikan is that they do not offer any stub or italic factory nibs for their Souverain series. I love Pelikan pens, and I favor the M-800 and M-1000 sizes. But I am having to spend extra money having B or BB nibs reground to italics. I do have one that Richard Binder did, and, like the others here, I am very pleased with it. Next month I am sending a BB M-1000 to Deb Kinney to try her regrind.

 

Good luck with your choice.

[chad234]

Thanks for the input folks, I think I will stick with a standard "ball tipped" nib. While I really like the character and line variation my cursive italic nibs add, I need more smoothness than even a snub can provide. . .

 

I guess by going to an oblique nib I wanted to have my cake (Smoothness) and eat it too (line variation.)

 

Great forum BTW!!!

[KCat]

Thanks for the input folks, I think I will stick with a standard "ball tipped" nib. While I really like the character and line variation my cursive italic nibs add, I need more smoothness than even a snub can provide. . .

 

I guess by going to an oblique nib I wanted to have my cake (Smoothness) and eat it too (line variation.)

 

Great forum BTW!!!

i think you'd be surprised at the smoothness of a Binder (or other nibmeister's) stubs. I'd say my stubs (some his, some my own make) are smoother than many of my factory ball-tipped nibs. The only reason I haven't altered all my pens to some sort of stub (i prefer a demi-oblique left-footed based on my writing angle and rotation) is cost or time. The "corners" on a good stub are no less smooth than on a ball-tip and for me at least, require no "thought" about how to hold the pen because the pen is ground to my specific grip. An italic is a different matter and I agree if you're concerned about having to slow down or alter your handwriting, an italic or a Binder oblique (15 or 30 degrees) is not the right answer. But even those are still amazingly smooth.

 

Just try a stub - the nib maker will ask you how you hold the pen, grip, etc. whether it's oblique or not will depend on that and you can still get lovely variation from a buttery smooth stub. There are some factory stubs that do have variation - just not Pelikan or MB. I believe Sailor and Dani Trio stubs are available.

 

i hate to see you pass up trying something that you might find a wonderful experience.

[acfrery]

I bought a Pelikan M 200 with a broad oblique nib, that wrote smoothly with no trace of obliqueness.

 

Then I ordered a broad stub from Pendemonium, and it is at least as smooth as the original nib but with a nice line variation. Their price is excellent and the service superb.

 

Go for a stub. They're fun!

 

Alejandro