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the Wahl ringtop filler mechanism dislodged


penviper

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i hv just recved the wahl ringtop fp bought from a forumer here. Was told that the sac needs replacement. Proceed to remove the nib assembly without any issue. The pieces of dried sac dropped out and subsequently 2 pcs of metal assembly dropped out too. is the pen defective.. i hv asked for a refund and wanted to ship the pen back to the seller. But still awaiting for his reply.

 

Question: the 2 metal pieces are the long lever metal and a small 'C" shape metal pc. Anyone can advise me if i can assemble back? or shall i just return it.

 

Pls kindly advise. best if u can supply some pic or drawing of how to assemble back.

 

 

 

tks,.

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i hv just recved the wahl ringtop fp bought from a forumer here. Was told that the sac needs replacement. Proceed to remove the nib assembly without any issue. The pieces of dried sac dropped out and subsequently 2 pcs of metal assembly dropped out too. is the pen defective.. i hv asked for a refund and wanted to ship the pen back to the seller. But still awaiting for his reply.

 

Question: the 2 metal pieces are the long lever metal and a small 'C" shape metal pc. Anyone can advise me if i can assemble back? or shall i just return it.

 

Pls kindly advise. best if u can supply some pic or drawing of how to assemble back.

 

 

 

tks,.

 

Are the parts the lower two in this picture?

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a75/wahlnut/PresserBarLeverandAnchorguide-1.jpg

If so the pen is not defective. These parts often fall out when such a pen is opened up for a new sac. Now if the pen was sold to you as ready to write or restored or some such, then a return or a requesrt that the pen be restored as advertised might be in order. Anyway these parts simply need to be put back where they belong in the barrel while simultaneously engaging the ears of the lever (shown off the pen in this picture at top) with ears sliding into the channels of the presser bar) The presser bar and the presser bar anchor (left) are inserted as one with the presser bar "T" riding at right angles in the slot of the anchor. The presser bar and the anchor are then pushed all the way in as an assembly until the anchor is seated in the base of the barrel. This operation is a little tricky and requires a special tool to be done easily. After that, the re-saced section goes on/in. If this sounds like more involved than you want, let a repair pro do it for you. It should cost you probably $30 to have the pen resaced and the parts put right again.

Syd

Syd "the Wahlnut" Saperstein

Pensbury Manor

Vintage Wahl Eversharp Writing Instruments

Pensbury Manor

 

The WAHL-EVERSHARP Company

www.wahleversharp.com

New WAHL-EVERSHARP fountain and Roller-Ball pens

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i hv just recved the wahl ringtop fp bought from a forumer here. Was told that the sac needs replacement. Proceed to remove the nib assembly without any issue. The pieces of dried sac dropped out and subsequently 2 pcs of metal assembly dropped out too. is the pen defective.. i hv asked for a refund and wanted to ship the pen back to the seller. But still awaiting for his reply.

 

Question: the 2 metal pieces are the long lever metal and a small 'C" shape metal pc. Anyone can advise me if i can assemble back? or shall i just return it.

 

Pls kindly advise. best if u can supply some pic or drawing of how to assemble back.

 

 

 

tks,.

 

Are the parts the lower two in this picture?

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a75/wahlnut/PresserBarLeverandAnchorguide-1.jpg

If so the pen is not defective. These parts often fall out when such a pen is opened up for a new sac. Now if the pen was sold to you as ready to write or restored or some such, then a return or a requesrt that the pen be restored as advertised might be in order. Anyway these parts simply need to be put back where they belong in the barrel while simultaneously engaging the ears of the lever (shown off the pen in this picture at top) with ears sliding into the channels of the presser bar) The presser bar and the presser bar anchor (left) are inserted as one with the presser bar "T" riding at right angles in the slot of the anchor. The presser bar and the anchor are then pushed all the way in as an assembly until the anchor is seated in the base of the barrel. This operation is a little tricky and requires a special tool to be done easily. After that, the re-saced section goes on/in. If this sounds like more involved than you want, let a repair pro do it for you. It should cost you probably $30 to have the pen resaced and the parts put right again.

Syd

 

 

im trying to visualize your instructions, kind of lost, is it possible if u can try to take a pic of the fitted assembly ie how the lower2 pcs interface just prior to inserting into the barrel and then how it interface with the lever. tks again.

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Does this help?

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a75/wahlnut/PreserBarinanchorslot.jpg

 

Just noticed that while these are assembled ok, the presser bar needs to be in the lower position in the slot before gong into the pen. In other words, in the picture the T is riding in the slot, but the bar should be at the other end of the slot (towards you in the picture). The tool O mention keeps the bar and the anchor in the correct position during insertion and tight so as an assembly it can be manipulated on re-entry so that the ears of the lever will engage the slots of the bar on the way in. Sorry hard to describe without writing book.

Syd

Edited by Wahlnut

Syd "the Wahlnut" Saperstein

Pensbury Manor

Vintage Wahl Eversharp Writing Instruments

Pensbury Manor

 

The WAHL-EVERSHARP Company

www.wahleversharp.com

New WAHL-EVERSHARP fountain and Roller-Ball pens

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Does this help?

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a75/wahlnut/PreserBarinanchorslot.jpg

Syd

 

but then how do u slide the lever ear into the presser bar? can add the lever interface into this pic too?which way into the barrel?

Edited by penviper
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Hi Syd..I have a Wahl RT, so enjoying this thread too..

now that I too see how these two pieces join, wondering if the Lever presses this metal bar against the sac? OR, Lever presses the sac against This bar? IOWs, is this inserted on the side next to the lever? or directly opposite the lever?

Have you seen the Oldfield book? does it picture RT resac/repair? My rts are all in good repair, now.. but would like to understand the mechanics for the future.

Thanks..

Penviper.. hope you're able to get your rt up and running...love mine..was the defining moment when I discovered the joys of vintage springy semi-flex nibs! just like no other!

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Hi Syd..I have a Wahl RT, so enjoying this thread too..

now that I too see how these two pieces join, wondering if the Lever presses this metal bar against the sac? OR, Lever presses the sac against This bar? IOWs, is this inserted on the side next to the lever? or directly opposite the lever?

Have you seen the Oldfield book? does it picture RT resac/repair? My rts are all in good repair, now.. but would like to understand the mechanics for the future.

Thanks..

Penviper.. hope you're able to get your rt up and running...love mine..was the defining moment when I discovered the joys of vintage springy semi-flex nibs! just like no other!

i'm also trying to figure out. that's why i still would like to clarify thru my latest query. cheers!

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Hi Syd..I have a Wahl RT, so enjoying this thread too..

now that I too see how these two pieces join, wondering if the Lever presses this metal bar against the sac? OR, Lever presses the sac against This bar? IOWs, is this inserted on the side next to the lever? or directly opposite the lever?

Have you seen the Oldfield book? does it picture RT resac/repair? My rts are all in good repair, now.. but would like to understand the mechanics for the future.

Thanks..

Penviper.. hope you're able to get your rt up and running...love mine..was the defining moment when I discovered the joys of vintage springy semi-flex nibs! just like no other!

i'm also trying to figure out. that's why i still would like to clarify thru my latest query. cheers!

i understand that the pressure bar is to be slided down towards me in the pic, then i hv tried ... the assembly can't seem to engage the lever ears when i slide them into the barrel, just simply dont engage.. but when i tried the other end of the pressure bar..it can , just to prove that the lever ear is ok.. what is the tool that u mention? is there any alternate method for this insertion..

Edited by penviper
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Hi Syd..I have a Wahl RT, so enjoying this thread too..

now that I too see how these two pieces join, wondering if the Lever presses this metal bar against the sac? OR, Lever presses the sac against This bar? IOWs, is this inserted on the side next to the lever? or directly opposite the lever?

Have you seen the Oldfield book? does it picture RT resac/repair? My rts are all in good repair, now.. but would like to understand the mechanics for the future.

Thanks..

Penviper.. hope you're able to get your rt up and running...love mine..was the defining moment when I discovered the joys of vintage springy semi-flex nibs! just like no other!

i'm also trying to figure out. that's why i still would like to clarify thru my latest query. cheers!

i understand that the pressure bar is to be slided down towards me in the pic, then i hv tried ... the assembly can't seem to engage the lever ears when i slide them into the barrel, just simply dont engage.. but when i tried the other end of the pressure bar..it can , just to prove that the lever ear is ok.. what is the tool that u mention? is there any alternate method for this insertion..

 

When in the right position, you will notice that there is a small space between the end of the anchor tang and the slots of the presser bar where the ears can fit into the slots. There is only maybe 1/8 or 1/16th inch of space so the tang needs to pass the ears and then the ears can "fall" into the space in alignment to engage the slots. The tool is a squared rod with a tip that is cut and protruded into the anchor slot. The tool rod's width is just enough to keep everything aligned by pressure fit and then your thumb hold the "other end" of the presser bar against the tool and the assembly is inserted into the barrel with pressure against the lever ears and if in proper alignment axially it goes into place. This is not an easy process even with the tool, but it took me maybe a few hours of practice to develop the skill, and even then it takes a few tries, cause you can not see what is happening while things are out of sight inside the barrel...you just have to feel it. When you withdraw the tool and hopefully the ancho stays put and does not come out with the tool you can check for both rails being on by using a needle nose pliers to try to twist the bar from side to side to see that it is securely on the ears. This is really one of those pen repair 103 or 104 courses, so don't feel inadequate too soon. Of course is it just fine to feel inadequate after trying 20 or 30 times. But hey DIY is never that easy.

 

In Banking we have a saying for customers who want to do everything anyone else seems to be able to do: "You make money in your business, and lose it in somebody else's'" Bot a surprise that Renaissance men are hard to find these days!

Syd

Syd "the Wahlnut" Saperstein

Pensbury Manor

Vintage Wahl Eversharp Writing Instruments

Pensbury Manor

 

The WAHL-EVERSHARP Company

www.wahleversharp.com

New WAHL-EVERSHARP fountain and Roller-Ball pens

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Thank you Wahlnut! it's working now!, this is far best experience to get a pen up.. why not sticky this thread for others benefits?

 

i hv managed to put the lever assembly back! Can u advise which sac dimension to get? and must i get 1-25 sac or can i just get a few first?

 

this are the 2 companies that u recommended previously, actually i wanted to get sac and some bottled ink... is there any online shop that sell both, so that i can save some shipment cost?

 

Pen Sac Company

 

Woodbin

Edited by penviper
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Great! Good for you! It is not easy and a lot of the Professional restorers have a hard time with it and many leave the anchor out all together. Unfortunately by doing so the presser bar is free to move about inside tha barrel and often causees premature failure of the sac. Also the anchor slot allows for parallel movement of the presser bar which insured even compression of the sac, Without it the lever can fulcrum against the tail of the barrel and the front of the presser bar depresses completely, but not the back =, resulting in partial fills and again reduced sac life.

 

In all of these messages, I don't think we identified the ring-top in question. That is important in knowing which sac to use. Please supply the model we are talking about. On the chance that it is either a plastic "signature" pen or a Gold Seal flat top, pen, it is either a 17 (for a signature pen) or 20 for a gold seal pen, but due to barrel shrinkage over the years and sometime some residue buildup or aluminum oxide deposits inside the barrel I recommend you back off one number to 16 and or 19. If yours is a different model consult the on line ifo from Pen Sac Company.

 

I do not know of a ready source for a few sacs only that could be coupled with an ink order. When you learn what sac is required and if you cant bum one off of a friend local to you and if you can place a small order with one of the suppliers, let me know and I can send you one or 2.

Syd

Syd "the Wahlnut" Saperstein

Pensbury Manor

Vintage Wahl Eversharp Writing Instruments

Pensbury Manor

 

The WAHL-EVERSHARP Company

www.wahleversharp.com

New WAHL-EVERSHARP fountain and Roller-Ball pens

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Great! Good for you! It is not easy and a lot of the Professional restorers have a hard time with it and many leave the anchor out all together. Unfortunately by doing so the presser bar is free to move about inside tha barrel and often causees premature failure of the sac. Also the anchor slot allows for parallel movement of the presser bar which insured even compression of the sac, Without it the lever can fulcrum against the tail of the barrel and the front of the presser bar depresses completely, but not the back =, resulting in partial fills and again reduced sac life.

 

In all of these messages, I don't think we identified the ring-top in question. That is important in knowing which sac to use. Please supply the model we are talking about. On the chance that it is either a plastic "signature" pen or a Gold Seal flat top, pen, it is either a 17 (for a signature pen) or 20 for a gold seal pen, but due to barrel shrinkage over the years and sometime some residue buildup or aluminum oxide deposits inside the barrel I recommend you back off one number to 16 and or 19. If yours is a different model consult the on line ifo from Pen Sac Company.

 

I do not know of a ready source for a few sacs only that could be coupled with an ink order. When you learn what sac is required and if you cant bum one off of a friend local to you and if you can place a small order with one of the suppliers, let me know and I can send you one or 2.

Syd

 

i think the challenge is that sometime the anchor goes tilted slightly when it in the barrel. I can't seems to get it align with the lever when looking into the barrel, ie when looking into the barrel, the anchor seats at around 11 o'clock or 1 o'clock position intead of dead straight 12o'clock line. And after a few times of lever movement, it's dislogde out (previously). Later found out when i pushed the whole anchor straight to the back or end of the barrel pressing against the end of the barrel, the lever mechansim doesn't dislodge out anymore.. hope this will hold. So now hope to get the sac and fill up the rt and write. cheers!

Edited by penviper
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