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Nice pen. Very bling.

Why not send a email to Conway Stewart?

Mysterious groans still abound! Maybe that is Vika's way of rolling her eyes at the acquisitive assistant. I'm not a poiple ink person, but I may have a sample vial of this Bilberry stuff. Or maybe it's another Diamine Poiple. And I don't have any comparison inks, except I once had the Varsity and Thornton. But, as always, @LizEF, thanks for the lovely review and story, and giving us all something to look forward to on Tuesdays. PS: 16 too big. 14 too small. Oh for a 15.

Here ⬆️ be wisdom

Good summary. Probably, but I didn't test. I only do water testing on inks that claim to be resistant or sometimes where it's commonly known to have some degree of resistance. Given that this just needed water to clean - no flush, no swabs - I'd guess it probably doesn't have water resistance even on paper.

By the way, looking at the photo, your nib has an extra gap between tip halves.

Yeah, we may be short on answers for a while... Perhaps it depends on the material - my re-used Pilot cartridges (soft plastic) stain more easily than the rest of the pen, as do those parts of the converter and section which get abraded by the friction of installing the converter. You're very welcome!

Maybe. Or maybe this is a new design. I've had a few bad experiences with lacquer nibs including Conklin (JoWo) Black lacquered, so I don't like lacquer nibs. I bought one black oxide and one ruthenium nib to try. Black Oxide is difficult to photograph correctly for right viewing like by eyes from behind the reflection of the light around. By the eyes, it looks like hardened steel in oil or under-tempered steel, with light blue reflection)). The ruthenium nib on the photo looks like an ordinary steel one, but by eyes have a slightly yellow tint that is not visible on the photo. JoWo #6 Stainless Steel nib unit Black Oxide This is the same nib but with different lights.

Pretty colour! 🙂 But no shading 🙁 And dries-out on the nib? 😟 Am I also right to assume that its capacity for water-resistance is roughly the same as that of the Wicked Witch of the West?

This guy - Grifos Gaudi

used in Mimosas

Ok, so I just found this: https://www.penexchange.de/forum_neu/viewtopic.php?t=31184 From the comparisons photos that were posted there, I think that you might like the colour of Aurora Blue/Black, although I note that I have seen several comments that say that it is an ink that is very ‘dry’-writing. That thread from penexchange.de could also be a useful guide to inform other members here of what Online Nachtblau looks like, and therefore enable them to offer better recommendations for you.

How do you find Tamiya polishing comlound (Fine grade)? Does it polish finer than Novus 2 or eventually Polywatch?

Ah, I got my Tuesday fix but so many questions and so few answers 🤪 Is the high Wizard (or With-ard) the same as the original one? No wise cracks from Makhabesh and no innocent truths from Essri. Must be all that sheen hiding the secrets 🙂 And niw for the ink. I had heard this ink is a stainer. So I was surprised that the cleaning was so easy. Thanks @LizEF for bringing so much excitement to our Tuesdays 🙏🙏🙏

I like my Japanese and European EF nibs, but I also like the look of shading inks. Unfortunately, I am finding the inks I have tried so far to be too dry. Any recommendations for inks for me to try out? Or should I just continue what I am doing which is to add a tiny bit of White Lightning to make them a little bit wetter?

I have no experience of Online Nachtblau. But, if you desire a greyish blue-black, Rohrer & Klingner ‘Salix’ starts out on the bluer end of the blue-black spectrum, but it ‘cures’ to a grey-tinged colour. If you find that ink to be too ‘blue’, I would also recommend Pelikan 4001 Blue-Black, which also turns grey-ish. Or, for a darker blue/black, Pelikan Edelstein Tanzanite (although that ink isn’t really very ‘grey’, and is not ‘inexpensive’). After you have received a few recommendations for suitable inks, I advise you to have a look through the ‘Ink Reviews’ board. Its ‘index’ thread is a good place to start . Linky! Another good place to start looking for suitable inks yourself is the following thread: N.b. I advise you to read/watch several reviews of any inks that get recommended to you. That is because: different people’s cameras/scanners render colours differently different reviewers use broader or narrower nibs, or ‘wetter’ or ‘drier’ pens different reviewers use different types of paper Ideally, you want to see reviews by people who use the same types of pen that you do, the same width/grind of nib that you do, and who write on the same type of paper that you do. But of course it is highly unlikely that many people will use all the same ‘equipment’ that you do, so reading several reviews is a good way to get an idea of the ink’s range of behaviours from different pens/nibs/papers etc. That said, I know that @namrehsnoom uses Lamy Safaris in different widths to write most of his ink reviews, so his reviews will be a good place for you to start. Especially his review of Pelikan Edelstein Tanzanite 🙂 I also recommend the reviews by @Sandy1, who was for many years the most-thorough reviewer of inks on FPN, and who is much-missed. Of the inks that I mentioned before, she reviewed e.g. Pelikan 4001 Blue-black and R&K Salix. Another reason to consult several reviews is because different reviewers notice different things: is the ink ‘wet’-writing or ‘dry’-writing? does the ink shade/sheen? does the ink feather/bleed? is the ink difficult to clean, or does it clog pens? does the ink cause nib-creep? Reading/watching several reviews of any ink gives you the best chance of being alerted to anything that would be a ‘deal-breaker’ for you before you buy the ink. If, after you have read several reviews and want to try out an ink before buying an entire bottle, many retailers will sell you a ‘sample’ of a couple of ml of the ink. I wish you good luck - and good fun too - in your search Slàinte, M.

Herbin eclat de saphir (once my last 2 bottles of Parker Penman Sapphire run out)

Lamy's Bentoite (crystal ink series)? Organics Studio's Manganese? Visconti's Wheatfield with Crows? Note: Those are all in bottles, but you can always fill your converters from them.

when TWISBI (??) came out with a very cheap and bad line of pens i had no problem buying 6 and going to town with a razor blade to carve out the section, usually going too far i let the local hobbyists get first crack at real repairs, they will tell me to ship it to HQ if they can't handle it.

I started learning to repair my own pens after I had given a Parker 51 to a known repair person, who is no longer with us. I was charged $35 for the repair, and when I got home, I discovered that the pen still had the same issue (wouldn't take ink). I dug around online, and figured out what was needed, and fixed it myself. In doing that, I found that I enjoyed working on pens more than just collecting or using them. So, my first few years of doing repairs was simply to learn how different pens worked. And here I am....knee deep in pens to repair, with a dozen or more labeled parts boxes. And...old age creeps up, so I now have trigger finger in both hands...sometimes simultaneously. My repair days may be limited.

same old same old for decades

Well, I decided to buy a Safari with a 1.1 stub nib and see how it goes. A buddy told me that he has one and really likes it. We'll see. If I don't, there is a nib meister close by.