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Method for Jewel Polishing?


johnboz

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I've noticed that the jewels on Esties seem to be harder to polish for some reason, but they usually show scuffs the most. Does anyone have a good polishing method? I've tried Simichrome, which I use on the pen bodies, but it just doesn't seem to get the job done.

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I've had good luck for all plastic polishing using Novus -- it comes in three grades, and is available on-line or at the Container Store, if you have on near you . . . . . .

 

My semichrome tends to stay in the garage with the motorcycles ;-}, but it does work well for pens, too!

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I know this will make you cringe but you might try it.

 

Believe it or not, my first polish step before Simichrome with Esties is regular automotive rubbing compound. It is

more aggressive than Simi and will save you ALOT of time in scratch removal. On the barrel, it works GREAT inconjuntion WITH the Simi using the Simi as a follow-up to it.

 

You really didn't ask but before I polish the pen itself, I DO tape off the threads with automotive masking tape and

cut a small piece to size to cover the imprint to stop them from getting worn or gunked up. I think the green masking

tape stays on better but also removes with no residue. I'll take the imprint tape off for the last light go over with Simi

(rubbing the Simi into the cloth so it doesn't get caked in the imprint) to clean up the imprint area a bit.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

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I've seen some exquisitely-polished Esties on display in this forum; I'd be interested in more advice on polishing (like Bruce's). How many times do you apply which sorts of polish? Likewise, how many rounds of wax? Any different treatments for different parts? Is everyone as scrupulous about threads and imprints as Bruce is?

 

I've gotten my Esties cleaner and shinier than they arrived here, but I haven't attained the heights of glamor that some of you display. What are your secrets?

Currently inked: Targa, fluted gold / Pelikan M400 / Parker 45 (Steel &Olive) / Sheaffer 440 Blue

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There is certainly more than one way to skin a cat.

 

I think some people use micro mesh and I've even read about some people adapting low speed mechanical

items for polishing duty.

 

For me doing it by hand lets you critique your progress in a nice slow orderly manner before you go to a

next step (or not) and there's less chance of damaging clips, jewels, etc; For me there is also a certain amount

of pleasure involved having my hands and fingers all over the pen in the progress. I just enjoy it. I'm not

totally unsure the pens don't appreciate it too.

 

I think Simichrome is pretty universally used. IMO, alot of people see how well it does, are pleasently surprised

at that, slap a coat or two of wax after the Simi and let 'er go at that.

 

I found I had some scratches that were just taking too long to take out with Simichrome. I didn't have any

micromesh. I just kind of stumbled into my own solution using what I already had on hand.

 

Some compounds can be more difficult to remove if they get where you don't want them to be. Simi is like this

if it dries and you don't discover it being hidden until sometime later. For me, it's just best to not even take a

chance (or to greatly reduce the chance) of getting the polish where you don't want it to start with. 50-60 year

old threads and imprints have already been through enough, no reason to subject them to more needless wear IMO.

 

Here is another thread where I detail what I use and how and why.

 

Hopefully it will be helpful.

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/in...showtopic=89509

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

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