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A good fountain pen for drawing?


radraccoon

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I've been experimenting with dip pens and rather like the way I can very the line width by applying a little more pressure to the nib, which spreads apart the tines slightly (as opposed to needing to switch to a different pen or using the same pen but retracing the movement to increase the width.) The problem is that each dip doesn't get very far. I've looked at a couple of fountain pens in stores, but the ones I've tested didn't seem to have nibs that could spread apart, and the nibs were far too wide to begin with. Can anybody suggest a fountain pen (to reduce the irritation of dipping) that uses narrow (fine?) nibs that can spread apart when pressed against the paper? Also, I understand that fountain pen ink isn't as dark as the india ink I've been using, but some fountain pen inks are darker than others. Any recommendations on that end once I find a suitable pen?

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For ink-drawings that require expressive strokes, I would recommend the Rotring Art Pen with any of the calligraphy nibs; Sailor Superscript Art Pen (available for $15 at Pendemonium); or as a more luxurious option, one of the DaniTrio raw ebonite models with an EF flexi-nib

 

 

For precision drawing: The perfect pen is the Rotring Art Pen with the .6mm sketch nib (note that this is different from their calligraphy art pens).

 

However, I use many other pens as well: Lamy Safaris & Al-Stars in EF work well for me, and the Sailor Sapporo in EF is excellent. A very cheap, but great option is the Sailor student ink pen: $3-10 if you can find it. The steel nib is extra-extra fine and produces very thin, precise lines; it is extremely reliable.

 

Hope this is helpful,

QM2

Edited by QM2
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You might want to look at the Ackerman pump pen. I have been meaning to order one for some time, so I can't tell you much about them other than what you can find on this website: http://www.ackermanpens.com/

 

Others might know more about this pen.

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Might want to look at the recommendations in this thread:

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/in...&pid=308103

 

I asked basically the same question.

 

The Rotring ArtPen is a good starter, but I've found them to be scratchy and not too reliable. For getting a clean, non-variable line, I do like the Rotring 600 and even like the Newton a little better except that it's not available in an EF.

 

For good flexibility, I haven't found a great solution but I will be trying out the pump. What I will suggest is to look at the Kaimei or Kuretake brush pens. They are some of the better drawing brushes I've ever used, but that may be because they don't have to be constantly redipped, thereby avoiding some of the abuse that brushes often get.

Who are the pen shops in your neighborhood? Find out or tell us where they are, at http://penshops.info/

Blog: http://splicer.com/

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I use a Rotring Art Pen with EF nib for sketching. It doesn't have a flex nib however.

I have heard/read that the Namiki Falcon has the flex that I would associate with dip pens. It is on my wish list and may be worth the investment.

In terms of inks, Noodler's Bulletproof Black is one of the very few fountain pen safe and permanent inks on the market. A friend of mine has had good results using Koh-i-noor Trans Mix in her Rotring Art Pen but I wouldn't recommend that for any precious fountain pen.

~ Manisha

 

"A traveller am I and a navigator, and everyday I discover a new region of my soul." ~ Kahlil Gibran

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I'm a cartoonist and I recommend the Namiki Falcon. Its hooded nib strongly resembles a Hunt nib or one of those nice french nibs; sweet thin-to-thick-to-thin transitions.

Edited by Geno
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I must say that I'm very happy with my Namiki Falcon. Haven't used any steel nibs since I got works wonderfully with the permanent ink from noodlers

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  • 4 months later...
I use a Rotring Art Pen with EF nib for sketching. It doesn't have a flex nib however.

I have heard/read that the Namiki Falcon has the flex that I would associate with dip pens. It is on my wish list and may be worth the investment.

In terms of inks, Noodler's Bulletproof Black is one of the very few fountain pen safe and permanent inks on the market. A friend of mine has had good results using Koh-i-noor Trans Mix in her Rotring Art Pen but I wouldn't recommend that for any precious fountain pen.

 

I also have used a Rotring Art Pen, F and EF for many years, but since becoming more interested in fountain pens have recently acquired a Namiki Falcon with Spencerian Customization by John Mottishaw.

 

This pen produces a very fine line and is very flexible for a modern fountain pen, though not as much as some dip pens.

 

I have never tried the Noodlers Bulletproof Black though, as I often combine my drawings with wash and watercolour I

particularly like the fact that fountainpen ink is not waterproof.

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There are a number of modern flexible-nib options available that approximate dip nib flexibility. If you wanted to stay with dip nibs but have the constant ink supply of a fountain pen, try an Ackerman Pump Pen (www.ackermanpens.com). The Pump Pens I have are a little temperamental, but with a some practice they work pretty well; the nibs will corrode fairly quickly if you leave them in the Pump Pen, so empty it out at the end of the day.

 

Modern FP flex-nib conversions take more pressure to flex than dip nibs, but they are much, much smoother! I prefer them to dip nibs. Vintage flex nibs give you the best of both: lower-pressure flexibility and smoothness. Well worth searching for, if you do a lot of pen and ink drawing.

 

If you find comparisons at all helpful, below are a few samples of flexible-nibbed fountain pens plus a sample from my Pelikan M205 with Richard Binder's Condor nib. It's not a flexible nib, but makes a variety of line widths--even a brush-type stroke--by varying the angle that you hold the pen. (The Sailor Superscript Calligraphy Pen produces similar marks in the same way.) The Condor is my absolute favorite sketching pen.

 

(In case the names don't show up well, these are the pens shown on the chart:

ROW 1: Ackerman Pump Pen with Hunt Imperial 101 dip nib; Pelikan M-205 with Richard Binder's XXXF-XXF Extra-flexible Duopoint; Namiki Falcon with John Mottishaw's XF/Extra-flexible (Spencerian) nib.

 

ROW 2: Namiki Falcon F with John Mottishaw's Extra-flexible modification; Namiki Falcon M with John Mottishaw's Extra-flexible modification; Namiki Falcon B with John Mottishaw's Extra-flexible modification.

 

ROW 3: Namiki Falcon with factory M nib (no modification); vintage Waterman 52v with "Artist's Nib"; and Pelikan M-205 with Richard Binder's Condor nib (duopoint fine/BBB brush, reversed).

 

The ink and paper for all of them is Noodler's Bulletproof Black on HP Laser.

 

 

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I've had a lot of luck with an old Waterman's 54. The line variation is similar to the dip pens I've used for some comic book work.

"The older I get, the more I realize I'm getting older".

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Also, I understand that fountain pen ink isn't as dark as the india ink I've been using, but some fountain pen inks are darker than others. Any recommendations on that end once I find a suitable pen?

 

STANDARD WARNING ABOUT INK OF INDIA, FOR NOOBS:

99.999999% of India inks are NOT suitable for use in fountain pens, and will destroy the nib in minutes.

 

This warning aside - there are two or three special India or India-like inks that omit the pen-destroying shellac, that may be usable in fountain pens.

 

I've used one of them in my Cross Century II before - it's called Higgins Fountain Pen India. It's a pretty dense black - although some people preferred Pelikan Fount Black (another pigmented, but at least somewhat FP-friendly formula).

 

Both of these have the carbon black pigment ground up super-fine, in an attempt to prevent them from clogging FP feeds (which larger particles surely would).

 

Do note: While the Higgins or the Pelikan should be safe for short-run use, you MUST flush the pen frequently, to prevent the buildup of the carbon pigment used. In addition, the jury is still out as to whether the pigment can cause long-term clogging - FPs were really designed for dye-based ink, not pigments.

 

--------

 

If you don't want to take the chance of using one of the pigmented inks, I recommend Noodler's Black (a.k.a. Bulletproof Black). Depending on the paper, nib, and number of strokes, it can get pretty dense. :)

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Ha! You need a vintage Waterman, and since (1) they're wonderful and charming, (2) they're all different, and (3) you can't get them at the mall, you're on a precipice. Before you lies a lifetime of striving, of delirious highs and wrenching lows. To start you off, there's a thread here about a special pen of the type you need, the 1930s 'Artist Pen'. (I found one of these recently and now have it on eBay; don't know the rules here so don't want to plug it, so if anybody wants the link contact me backchannel, hope that's okay.) This is just an example. They made this style nib in lots of pens, including some very humble ones. Maybe one out of every 50 or 100 Waterman nibs is somewhat like this, so they're out there. Good luck!

Rob Morrison

 

 

I've been experimenting with dip pens and rather like the way I can very the line width by applying a little more pressure to the nib, which spreads apart the tines slightly (as opposed to needing to switch to a different pen or using the same pen but retracing the movement to increase the width.) The problem is that each dip doesn't get very far. I've looked at a couple of fountain pens in stores, but the ones I've tested didn't seem to have nibs that could spread apart, and the nibs were far too wide to begin with. Can anybody suggest a fountain pen (to reduce the irritation of dipping) that uses narrow (fine?) nibs that can spread apart when pressed against the paper? Also, I understand that fountain pen ink isn't as dark as the india ink I've been using, but some fountain pen inks are darker than others. Any recommendations on that end once I find a suitable pen?
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Rob, thank you for that post! That is exactly the kind of pen and nib I have been searching for also!!! :roflmho: The style of writing it produces is exactly my style and what I want to improve.

Leanna

http://3blessingsaday.blogspot.com

So long as a scrap of paper remains, I shall keep scribbling.

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  • 4 years later...

Ha! You need a vintage Waterman, and since (1) they're wonderful and charming, (2) they're all different, and (3) you can't get them at the mall, you're on a precipice. Before you lies a lifetime of striving, of delirious highs and wrenching lows. To start you off, there's a thread <a href="https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2338&pid=116589&mode=threaded&start=#entry116589" target="_blank">here</a> about a special pen of the type you need, the 1930s 'Artist Pen'. (I found one of these recently and now have it on eBay; don't know the rules here so don't want to plug it, so if anybody wants the link contact me backchannel, hope that's okay.) This is just an example. They made this style nib in lots of pens, including some very humble ones. Maybe one out of every 50 or 100 Waterman nibs is somewhat like this, so they're out there. Good luck!

Rob Morrison

 

You have quite doomed me Mr Morrison. I fear my search for the inky waterman artist grail is one that will skirt the edges of madness. Why didn't I just get a falcon or an ackerman and be done.. Oh no. No. Now I must become a Waterman obsessive. There are.. just.. so.. many..

 

 

o the preciouses

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