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Info On Disassembly


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#1 chiaroscuro

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 14:48

I found several sites with info on how to disassemble Pelikans but most of it is all over the place. I remember having come across a video showing how to take them apart entirely, but I can't seem to find it now.

Does anyone know of some good resources on this subject?

I'm specifically looking for instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble a 1980s m100, but if you know of a site with good info on other models, please post the links anyway. Video tutorials would be especially helpful. Thanks in advance.

#2 RobertJRB

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 16:25

I always had the idea all models below M800 are glued so not really good for disassembly. Models M800 and M1000 can be disassembled with a special tool. Unscrew the piston knob and u see were to place it. I checked with my M100 and M200 and both don't have that.

Would like to know trough how to dis mantel a M800 demo to clean the ink underneath the threat. So will keep an eye to this topic.
Pelikan:
Expo 2000 Humankind LE; Wall Street LE; Golf LE; m800 clear demonstrator; m600 red stripe; m420; m405; 400 brown tortoise; m200 Citroenpers LE; m150

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145 Classique platinum

#3 TeamTQ

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 18:02

I always had the idea all models below M800 are glued so not really good for disassembly. Models M800 and M1000 can be disassembled with a special tool. Unscrew the piston knob and u see were to place it. I checked with my M100 and M200 and both don't have that.

Would like to know trough how to dis mantel a M800 demo to clean the ink underneath the threat. So will keep an eye to this topic.


Where can I get a wrench to unscrew the piston out of an M1xxx?

#4 rhr2010

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 18:46

You can make yourself one with an old plastic card that you can cut of proper size. If I remember correctly the wrench of the TWSBI works too.
" I have no special talents. I am only passionately curious." -- Albert Einstein

#5 chris burton

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Posted 13 December 2012 - 16:18

the 'wrench' size is 7mm and needs to be thin so as to fit under the turning knob. please remember that these are left hand threads (righty-loosey, lefty-tighty). no heat needed to unscrew the piston units on these pens, only the wrench.

#6 Rick Propas

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Posted 16 December 2012 - 13:42

OK, I have to ask: why on earth do you *want* to disassemble these pens? do they need repair? do you take apart the engine of your car when you change oil?

#7 Bo Bo Olson

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 17:13

OK, I have to ask: why on earth do you *want* to disassemble these pens? do they need repair? do you take apart the engine of your car when you change oil?



I agree...if it works leave it be.

There is JB's Perfect Pen Flush, if really needed.

Is it Twsbi or Ahab's fault everyone wants to take working pens apart. :unsure:

Due to Mauricio's improved definition of Super-flex, I no longer use the term Easy Full Flex.

 

Semi-flex is an “almost” flex; not a ‘flex’ nib. It is great for regular writing with a touch of flair. It can give you some fancy; but it is not made for real fancy writing. For bit more of that get a 'flexi'/maxi-semi-flex. Both spread tines 3X.  Those are not "Flex" nibs. 

 

Odd, how many who should know better, compares Japanese F (which equals EF), with Western F, with out a second thought, but do not compare Japanese B with Western B.

 

Wider than Normal does not exist. Wider than Japanese does. Every company has it's very own standard + slop/tolerance. Developed from the users of it's pens only; not the users of other companies pens. The size you grind a nib to, is your standard only. Paper and ink matter to nib width. Thank god for 1/2 sizes or it would be boring.


#8 enricof

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 18:46

You can make yourself one with an old plastic card that you can cut of proper size. If I remember correctly the wrench of the TWSBI works too.


I can confirm TWBI's wrench works perfectly for M800/M1000.
M600 and smaller should have snap-in (single use) units, I would not touch it if you don't have a very good reason and a spare.

Better a couple fills of Eel ink...

Edited by enricof, 27 December 2012 - 20:24.

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#9 Bo Bo Olson

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 22:48

A rice grain sized dab of 100% pure silicon grease around the barrel just under a up-drawn piston, solves most Pelikan piston problems...should do that every 10-15 years if you are into cleaning.

Due to Mauricio's improved definition of Super-flex, I no longer use the term Easy Full Flex.

 

Semi-flex is an “almost” flex; not a ‘flex’ nib. It is great for regular writing with a touch of flair. It can give you some fancy; but it is not made for real fancy writing. For bit more of that get a 'flexi'/maxi-semi-flex. Both spread tines 3X.  Those are not "Flex" nibs. 

 

Odd, how many who should know better, compares Japanese F (which equals EF), with Western F, with out a second thought, but do not compare Japanese B with Western B.

 

Wider than Normal does not exist. Wider than Japanese does. Every company has it's very own standard + slop/tolerance. Developed from the users of it's pens only; not the users of other companies pens. The size you grind a nib to, is your standard only. Paper and ink matter to nib width. Thank god for 1/2 sizes or it would be boring.


#10 *MariO*

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 12:17

If I am not mistaken there was a woman in here who disassembled an m200 and posted pics and sketched drawings on how she did that.

I don't suggest you do it unless you are 100 % you are capable of doing it (if your precious pen needs service it's better to contact a pro.) The only service I recommend to do yourself is adding a tad of pure silicon . . But Keep in mind that I have my daily pen (old m200 that never needed this and is already on the 14th bottle of noodlers heart of darkness ink)

Only the 800's and the 1000's can be unscrewed using the 7mm wrinch (you have to turn the wrinch clockwise to unscrew)

Conclusion : if your pen is not broken, don't try to fix it. Just enjoy it :)

Sorry for my bad english!!

#11 chiaroscuro

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Posted 31 December 2012 - 21:39


OK, I have to ask: why on earth do you *want* to disassemble these pens? do they need repair? do you take apart the engine of your car when you change oil?



I agree...if it works leave it be.

There is JB's Perfect Pen Flush, if really needed.

Is it Twsbi or Ahab's fault everyone wants to take working pens apart. :unsure:


You're both bang on. I got a TWSBI Mini classic (it has a demonstrator barrel) as my first piston-filled pen and then a Pelikan m100 and I just assumed that was the thing to do. The Pelikan has a slightly misaligned nib and I planned to re-seat it and decided that, if I was going to take the assembly apart, I might as well learn how to take the whole pen apart and clean it out thoroughly. Obviously, none of that happened (the nib assembly seems to be welded together). Having read about the glue and other hurdles, I "challenged my assumptions" and decided against it. I'm on the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" team now.

Thanks to everyone for your feedback. If I do need to do it at some point, it's good to know at least what it will entail.

#12 Sasha Royale

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Posted 01 January 2013 - 15:01

I admire all of you, who are willing to do this.
In my dresser drawer, I have silk-cloth pouch. I houses almost all the parts
of an unused wrist watch, that I received for my 12th birthday. A stark
reminder that Sasha shouldn't take things apart.

Happy New Year !