Pilot Togidashi Makie Aka Fuji Fk-5Mp-Af

[Pen2009]

I just got a Pilot Togidashi Makie Aka Fuji (M) and I only did a dip test, which this pen passed so far. I haver several makie fountain pens and I was expecting this pen to be as light as those other pens. I am pleasantly surprised that this pen is heavier than the Customs 845.

 

The presentation:

Nicely done, without going overboard. Just the right size box to present the pen with togidashi makie artwork elegantly.

 

The appearance:

The pictures would be enough, I believe. The pen is decorated with Red Mt. Fuji and clouds on the cap. I have a low end hiramakie "matsu" fountain pen from Pilot (FK-3000P-MT) and I can see this Aka Fuji pen is definately in higher quality. As you can see, there is no seams at the top of the cap and the end of the barrel. The unibody look gives a very clean appearance.

 

The filling mechanism:

This is a converter pen. The CON-70 came with the pen. I believe this CON-70 is the same one equipped with the Custom 845. No issue with this converter, as it can take in sufficient ink.

 

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[hari317]

Thanks for reviewing this pen. I believe the barrel is brass and hence the weight. Can you tell me if the barrel hgas an inner plastic lining without any exposed brass? the section threads are plastic so i was thinking of buying one if i could do an ED conversion.

 

Best

Hari

[Pen2009]

Thanks for reviewing this pen. I believe the barrel is brass and hence the weight. Can you tell me if the barrel hgas an inner plastic lining without any exposed brass? the section threads are plastic so i was thinking of buying one if i could do an ED conversion.

 

Best

Hari

I was not aware the pen is made of brass. I checked it again and am still unable to find any bare brass surface by just looking at the pen. The threads area where the nib section attaches to the barrel does not seem to show any appearant brass surface either. But, from the heft (I don't want to imply the pen is heavy; but, it is weighed enough to tell you the pen is not the usual light resin origin), I think your comment rings true.

[hari317]

 

I was not aware the pen is made of brass. I checked it again and am still unable to find any bare brass surface by just looking at the pen. The threads area where the nib section attaches to the barrel does not seem to show any appearant brass surface either. But, from the heft (I don't want to imply the pen is heavy; but, it is weighed enough to tell you the pen is not the usual light resin origin), I think your comment rings true.

 

The Pilot website mentions the "Axis" as Brass, I think they mean barrel when the translator says axis. Direct Link.

 

Do you think I can convert the pen to ED? I am really interested in this pen and I see them comeup often on auctions.

[Pen2009]

Do you think I can convert the pen to ED? I am really interested in this pen and I see them comeup often on auctions.

I think you could. There is no seam and the barrel is one piece. You could put on silicone in the thread area and add a rubber o-ring.

[georges zaslavsky]

this pen is a looker for sure thanks for sharing

[tenney]

I have a low end hiramakie "matsu" fountain pen from Pilot (FK-3000P-MT) and I can see this Aka Fuji pen is definately in higher quality.

Your pen is very attractive. Thanks for the review.

 

Hiramakie (screen printed) really is nothing like real makie. I wish that sellers here on FPN would list their hiramakie pens as such and not as "makie".

[Pen2009]

Hiramakie (screen printed) really is nothing like real makie. I wish that sellers here on FPN would list their hiramakie pens as such and not as "makie".

Hiramakie is just one of the makie techniques (hiramakie, takamakie and togidashimakie). So, some low end hiramakie pens are mostly screen printed; but some are hand painted.

[jandrese]

Hiramakie (screen printed) really is nothing like real makie. I wish that sellers here on FPN would list their hiramakie pens as such and not as "makie".

Hiramakie is just one of the makie techniques (hiramakie, takamakie and togidashimakie). So, some low end hiramakie pens are mostly screen printed; but some are hand painted.

 

 

I have the same pen, and it is very attractive. I would not call mine hefty at all. There is no brass in it. Perhaps they changed the construction? The urushi (even on the converter!) makes it feel oddly solid, but it's not heavy. Thanks for sharing.

 

So, you frequently say that your pens pass a dip test. Do you write much with them? I just bought a Visconti Art Nouveau that passed a dip test in the store just fine. Lots of pens do. Feed is full of ink etc. Dip tests, however, rarely reliably inform about performance in the field. For example, my new Visconti does very poorly with a full converter. It now writes OK upside down, which is totally unlike the dip test. Obviously, I need to adjust the nib/feed. I liked the looks of the pen and went against my experience with Visconti and now I'm mad at myself. Just wondering how your pens perform in actual use.

 

Oh, I almost forgot to add that my Fuji pen also needed adjustment to work well in the field. A little weird for a Pilot, but to be fair mine was purchased lightly used.

Edited June 24, 2012 by jandrese

[Pen2009]

So, you frequently say that your pens pass a dip test. Do you write much with them? I just bought a Visconti Art Nouveau that passed a dip test in the store just fine. Lots of pens do. Feed is full of ink etc. Dip tests, however, rarely reliably inform about performance in the field.

You are absolutely right. A dip test does not prove the pens are in good condition. But, when I can sense some scratchiness or dryness in the nib during the dip test, that is a red alert for quality issue. Usually, I can detect some issues by my dip test.

My Silvern Koshi and Ishidatami passed my dip test somewhat even though I felt some dryness in the ink flow. I should have tested them more thoroughly right away. But, I didn't bother to do until after several weeks later when I had finally been able to get to test those pens thoroughly. I sent them out to Pilot for adjustment and they are now perfect.

 

I think most of the common nib / feed related issues could be tested by dip test. I mean, I don't dump-dip the nib into the ink. I will make sure the initial dip is very quick, not to soak up too much. With a capillary action of the feed, I can usually tell the nib / feed are working properly by dip test.