Hero 616 Jumbo Sac Size

[Flounder]

Would anyone happen to know the right sac size for a Hero 616 jumbo? I'd like to swap out the silicon sac for a latex one.

[glinn]

I'm wondering the same thing although for different reasons (my Hero 616 came with a faulty sac that I'd like to replace). Does anyone know if the sac is the same size as the Parker 51?

[apeei]

This is My first post.

I just measured my 616 and figure out 7mm in diameter,50 mm long.

Hope it's help for you.

[Flounder]

Thank you apeei and let me be the first to say welcome to the forum . If you haven't already, introduce yourself to in the new members section, I'm sure everyone will want to say hello!

 

As far as I know fountain pen sacs are sold in fractions of an inch, and the size is determined by measuring the nipple size. I'll take mine off and check what the nipple diameter is.

 

 

[Flounder]

Sweet merciful heavens, what was used to secure the sac to the nipple? It is astoundingly strong.

 

Could someone guestimate the size of the sac from this photo? The sac is still on the nipple. It occurs to me that I've never had to measure anything in inches before. Can someone of the right generation and not anarithmetric translate a width of 4 markings into fractions of an inch, on a ruler where a width of 8 markings bears the legend "16", and 16 markings is a full inch?

 

 

 

 

I need an aspirin :blink:

 

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero616JumbosacSmall.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Flounder]

Okay, my brain has cooled down a little. I found a

on youtube that seems to suggest a width of four marks is 1/4 inch, and this thread that says a 1/4 inch nipple uses a size 16 sac.

[glinn]

I tried a #16 sac and it seems a little smaller than the original. It does fit but I don't know how much stretch it should take to get over the nipple.

[welch]

Maybe Hero is saying: "Don't change the sac...buy more pens!" (And the filler in a 616 is much smaller than a P51 aerometric filler.)

Edited November 12, 2011 by welch

[glinn]

The economics of fixing my Hero 616 don't make any sense at all of course. It's cheaper and easier to just buy more pens (when you include the shipping cost of the sac) but it's more fun to fix it! If I didn't like messing with things and getting my fingers dirty, I would use a ball-point!

 

Thanks for the info on the P51, now I know what not to order as a replacement!

[Rasendyll]

The marks on the ruler are sixteenths of an inch, so the full 16 is an inch, 8 is half an inch and the nipple appears tobe a quarter of an inch.

 

Some of us still measure in feet and inches for preference ....

[Flounder]

It's cheaper and easier to just buy more pens (when you include the shipping cost of the sac) but it's more fun to fix it! If I didn't like messing with things and getting my fingers dirty, I would use a ball-point!

 

Couldn't agree more! The 616 is the perfect medium for exploring this side of the fountain pen hobby.

 

• Make a mistake and ruin the pen? No problem, they're cheaply replaced and still being made.
• The multipacks they come in help compare and contrast nibs if you're trying to smooth them.

• Leaking clutch rings? You're about to learn how to disassemble, shellac, and realign a pretty good (and importantly, more delicate) simulacrum of a Parker 51's hood, nib and feed.

• Worried about polishing that newly arrived vintage pen? Grab a black 616 and run the section under the hot tap for a minute. Hey presto! The surface has magically blanched a dark gray. By the time you've polished and waxed the flimsy hood to match the barrel again, you're ready for anything.

 

The 616 gets a lot of digs as a clone of the 51, I'd argue that it is a great warm up act for we who are short on experience and full of enthusiasm.

[welch]

It's cheaper and easier to just buy more pens (when you include the shipping cost of the sac) but it's more fun to fix it! If I didn't like messing with things and getting my fingers dirty, I would use a ball-point!

 

Couldn't agree more! The 616 is the perfect medium for exploring this side of the fountain pen hobby.

 

• Make a mistake and ruin the pen? No problem, they're cheaply replaced and still being made.
• The multipacks they come in help compare and contrast nibs if you're trying to smooth them.

• Leaking clutch rings? You're about to learn how to disassemble, shellac, and realign a pretty good (and importantly, more delicate) simulacrum of a Parker 51's hood, nib and feed.

• Worried about polishing that newly arrived vintage pen? Grab a black 616 and run the section under the hot tap for a minute. Hey presto! The surface has magically blanched a dark gray. By the time you've polished and waxed the flimsy hood to match the barrel again, you're ready for anything.

 

The 616 gets a lot of digs as a clone of the 51, I'd argue that it is a great warm up act for we who are short on experience and full of enthusiasm.

 

I suggest a good old lever-filler, though, for practice on sac-replacement. (Agreed: the hood, feed, and collector on the 51 are unique, but the 51 aerometric sacs don't wear out.)

 

- The Esterbrook is hard to break and the only one I ruined taught me to be very careful with heat-guns. Furthermore, Estie nibs are easy to find and replace.

 

- Next are the 1940 and earlier 3rd-tier pens, such as the early marbled American, Arnold, and early Wearevers...the marbling was beautiful, and the gold-plated clips can gleam after they meet jeweler's cloth.

 

- Finally, the Eversharp Skyline is fragile, yes, but had one of the all-time greatest nibs. They are under-priced on EBay, at least the last I looked.

[Flounder]

Size 16 sac fitted today, it seems the right size.