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Namiki / Pilot Blue


Token

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I was browsing the list of reviewed inks, and I noticed that Namiki/ Pilot blue only had a few reviews, and they seemed to be from the cartridge, not the bottle. While I'm not aware of any differences, I thought I'd post a new review up.

 

Just a disclaimer- my scanner and monitor aren't calibrated. So, what you see on your monitor may be different to what the ink is actually like. On my monitor, it looks a bit less saturated that it appears in real life, however, I believe my scanner [CanoScan N650U] is more accurate at capturing colours than my monitor is at representing them, and so I haven't edited the scan.

 

Its a scanned review, and its too big to post directly on here. So, I've attached a smaller, lower quality scan here, and included a link to the fullsize scan. I think I've found a way around that limitation.

 

http://i.imgur.com/HDzyE.jpg

 

Just some notes:

The ink looks more vivid when its wet, and, as it dries it appears to look a bit more washed out. Not what I would call a washed out ink, no, but just not as vivid as before.

 

When there is a lot of ink on the page, the ink seems to develop a reddish sheen. If you look at the 3rd swipe of "shading" part of my review, you can just see it, although its more reddish in real life.

 

The cross nib that I've used is broader than the standard medium, as I've smoothed it and made it slightly wider. However, the Lamy medium is the standard size.

 

On the topic of feathering, there's really nothing to see. If I had to rate it out of 10, I'd give it a 9.5.

 

The ink has excellent water resistance. I've exposed the ink to water many times, and, while you do lose a bit of colour, its still easily visible, looking maybe 95% the same as before. Even after washing, its more saturated-looking than some other [unwashed] inks that I have used. Not bulletproof, but I'd class it as a waterproof ink. Oh, and that blotch at the bottom of the drip test was caused by me not waiting for the paper to dry before circumscribing the test area.

 

One thing i haven't tested is fading due to sunlight. So, if that's very important to you, you may need some more research.

 

Mixed with Noodlers Black, it makes a nice bulletproof blue black, and, in fact, that's what I use in my pens. It retains its nice colour when exposed to water, and, even if it were exposed to bleach or harsh sunlight, it would still be legible due to its black component. Of course, as you'd be mixing it yourself, you could make any shade of blue black that you wanted, which is a bonus.

 

I think this is a great ink for those looking for a waterproof blue ink. Sweaty hands, spilt liquids and rain are no match for this lovely ink.

 

EDIT: Bleedthrough- No bleedthrough or showthrough on normal writing, however, on the 3rd swipe with the cotton bud [in the shading test], a darker patch could be seen on the other side. Not bleedthrough, but you knew something had been put down on the opposite face.

post-34061-0-58717200-1314608679.jpg

Edited by Token
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I have been using this in a Pilot VP (M) and a Visconti Opera (F)It has a great shaped bottle with a well that takes a decent size nib. The colour in this post looks about right too. I find it goes onto the paper generously and although it does not feather it goes well into the paper occasionally showing on the reverse but only a bit for example a full stop.I would say it is a generous ink in that it makes the line from a fine nib a tiny bit wider. A really good day to day ink, I like it.

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Blue cartridge ink is exactly the same stuff :)

 

Can you please show how your Pilot-Noodlers mix looks on paper? I am very intrigued!

 

I find Pilot's blue-black too chalky and character-less...

Hooded nibs are the best

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I don't have the mix currently in any pens, but, i do have some mixes tested on paper. They're not extremely accurate, but they're decent. I'll scan them now, and upload.

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ok, here we go

 

Scans of the mixes

 

Just a reminder that they're not very accurate, but are decent representations of the colours.

 

The black slashes indicate when I remade the sample with fresh ink.

I did a serial dilution, taking a little bit each time to test with. That's why there'd be some error, as I didn't account for the ink used to make the actual sample swatch. I tried to reduce this, however, by periodically remaking the sample to the quantities indicated.

 

Apart from the first page, I can't remember what paper I used, nor what pen, though I think it was Reflex white paper, and a chinese pen. I did these tests a while back, maybe a year and half ago.

 

I'm waiting on a new battery for my pipette. I then hope to make some more accurate and precise samples.

 

http://i.imgur.com/0a8Zk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/V4e8Q.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/lY96e.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/cOUWc.jpg

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Thanks for posting this mixing chart--it's really helpful.

Not sure I'd have thought to combine N black & P/N blue.

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I mix this 1:1 with PR DC SS Blue. It adds water resistance, reduces smearing, and maintains much of the "POW" of the PR ink.

"Anyone who lives within their means suffers from a lack of imagination."

Oscar Wilde

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Thank you for the test samples, you've obviously spent great deal of time with all the mixing and sampling!

 

Your 1/10 mix looks exactly like Pilot's Blue-Black. Which I don't like :ltcapd: I guess there is not enough saturation in the blue ink to make the BB made with it appeal to me...

Hooded nibs are the best

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Just a heads up- the first image, with the 10ul smears, is not done with a cotton bud. I put 10 microlitres of ink on the paper, and spread it across with a credit card. As such, the ink is darkest to the left, and lighter to the right, as the ink is progressively absorbed into the paper. I think its useful as it would, to a certain extent, represent the ink a a "wet" pen [the left side of the smear] and in a "dry" pen [the right most side of the smear].

 

I think, but this is not certain, if you wanted to compare a cotton bud swab with the smear I've made, the best representation would be one-third to halfway along the smear.

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The Pilot Blue is very water resistant and the PR DC SS blue is a rich and thick blue that has zero water resistance. The mixture maintains much of the PR ink's richness and yet is 50% water resistant.

"Anyone who lives within their means suffers from a lack of imagination."

Oscar Wilde

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Cool thanks for that update Lloyd. Yes I love my pr ink but my problem is they just smudge due to moisture etc

 

If most inks are ph neutral is it too much to ask for addictives that make it water resistant/proof? That's just a lay mans view, i am sure the chemistry is much more complex <sigh>

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  • 3 weeks later...

The Pilot Blue is very water resistant and the PR DC SS blue is a rich and thick blue that has zero water resistance. The mixture maintains much of the PR ink's richness and yet is 50% water resistant.

 

Thanks Loyd!! Now I know how to "fix" my DC Supershow! I stopped using it because it is NOT water resistant and smudges easily.

 

I have a sample Namiki Pilot blue and I'll mix in an equal amount of DC Supershow.

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Forgot to add, I like PR Tanzanite.. I have a mix of 1:4 Tanzanite:Pilot Blue. I found anymore than 1 part PR and it still smudges too much.

 

I prefer real blue or burple. I like the PR bulletproof ink concept but there is always some green or teal in it.

 

Really enjoying the flow and colour of my pr tan and pilot blue mix.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I mix this 1:1 with PR DC SS Blue. It adds water resistance, reduces smearing, and maintains much of the "POW" of the PR ink.

Any chance of seeing a side by side comparison of plain and the PP blend? It sounds promising!

It is easier to stay out than get out. - Mark Twain

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  • 12 years later...

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