Restore Sheaffer Vac-Fil Packing Unit

[ashbridg]

I’ve been wanting to restore a Vac-Fil packing unit using the original felt seals, and now I may have just the right pen. The felt in the packing unit is like new (except dry) because the pen was never used. Can I coat the felt washer with silicone and then repack it in the packing unit? What should I use to weld the plastic packing-unit capsule back onto the ink cartridge? Is MEK the only adhesive that works? What did Sheaffer use?

 

http://ashbridg.com/vac/felt_solo_500.jpg

An unused felt seal from a Vac-Fil packing unit

 

http://ashbridg.com/vac/val_all_500.jpg

The felt washer sandwich fits into the packing-unit capsule just behind it. The end washers to the right and left of the seal assembly have shoulders for a secure fit. This is an original Sheaffer's packing unit, a nice tight little package that I hope to preserve.

 

Previously I used David Nishimura’s o-rings and closure seals, which work fine. And I plan to order a Fountainbel cartridge from Francis Goossens for at least one of my pens. But I want to restore one pen using the original felt if I can.

 

In Pen Repair, Second Edition, Jim Marshall and Laurence Oldfield recommend using the original felt packing washers “if the existing [felt] barrel seals can be rejuvenated.” They go on to say that “This is relatively new thinking,” and indeed it is contrary to some of the techniques we’ve discussed here at FPN.

 

I am anxious to hear from the FPN Vacuphiles and appreciate any ideas and comments.

 

http://ashbridg.com/vac/val_500.jpg

 

About the pen: It’s a later model Vac-Fil with an inner cartridge, a beautiful chocolate color with a two-tone 14k Triumph Lifetime nib. I believe it is a Valiant, but it is a thick pen and has a girth even larger than a “fat pen” or a “one-year” model. (It measures 1/16 of an inch wider at the cap opening than my fat pen). I remember seeing some information on a Sheaffer extra-fat pen, but I can’t find it now.

 

http://ashbridg.com/vac/val_open_500.jpg

 

 

Thanks,

Ashby

Edited February 18, 2011 by ashbridg

[kip]

I'm sorry but i am new to fountain pens and can't help you. May i ask though how you took your pen apart and if you found a guide where did you find it.

[fountainbel]

Hi Ashby,

Restoration to the original design is surely looks the optimum approach, however - at least in my opinion - there are some drawbacks in doing so in this particular case.

The rubber seal disks should seal perfectly BOTH on their outer diameter and on the inner diameter on the rod.

This implies a pair of identical perfect concentric seals, which is not a simple goal (as I've experienced)

Using the original sealing set-up, Sheaffer warned to push the plunger only one time quickly down and avoid repetitive filling strokes.

This recommendation was aimed at avoiding leakage on the plunger rod seal by excessive, repetitive back-up pressure, when pulling the rod out while ink behind the piston seal

And yes, there was/is a serious risk the rod seals flip backwards when creating a back-up pressure with ink behind the piston seal ,leading to permanent leakage.

This risk is fully eliminated using the "fountainbel" cartridge.

There are 2 O rings sealing on the rod , having a silicone grease reserve between both O rings

One can obtain filling volumes up to 90% by pushing the plunger first one time fully down, wait 15 seconds (allowing the vacuum to pull the ink) & then 3 times (partly) up and (fully)down over 50-60% of its full stroke.

Risks for leakage triggered by pressure build up because the external diameter of the original Sheaffer seals flip-over are fully eliminated

I've also treid restoring the packing unit to its original design, even made special "twin punches" to cut the seals and the felt, but this is what I've experienced

Your pen being the later version containing the ink in separate internal ink container, installation of my Mark 2 cartridge takes 2 minutes.

Further benefit being one does not have to gleu or fuse the cartridge in/on the barrel, hence one can easily replace the seals in 5minutes from the backside whenever this should be necccesary.

Just my 2 cents,

Francis

Edited February 18, 2011 by fountainbel

[viclip]

If you do decide to replace the original unit, I'd suggest using shellac to hold it in place.

That way you'll be able to get it out again with simple dry heat, when the time comes.

I'm envious that you were able to get the unit nicely out, wish all my Vac-Fil projects would progress so nicely

[framebaer]

No No. The felt is bound to fail in short order. You have already done the hard part of disassembling by cutting off the packing seal. Might as well put the correct o-ring in there which will last far longer and be more reliable than the felt.

 

You need to use a solvent which is designed for welding Celluloid as that is what that cartridge is made from. We use a special (nasty) solvent which is not available to the general public but which works great on celluloid. Be sure to apply pressure when solvent welding otherwise you don't get a proper seal. This is a little tricky to do. You can just hold it tight for 5 minutes or so.

 

Also don't forget the front washer! I don't see one on the shaft ahead of the "mushroom".

Edited February 18, 2011 by framebaer

[kirchh]

About the pen: It’s a later model Vac-Fil with an inner cartridge, a beautiful chocolate color with a two-tone 14k Triumph Lifetime nib. I believe it is a Valiant, but it is a thick pen and has a girth even larger than a “fat pen” or a “one-year” model. (It measures 1/16 of an inch wider at the cap opening than my fat pen). I remember seeing some information on a Sheaffer extra-fat pen, but I can’t find it now.

It's an ordinary Valiant. If you have a similar pen that's thinner, that one isn't a "fat" pen (perhaps it is a TM [Thin Model]). I'm not sure what a "one-year" model is. There is no "extra-fat" pen of this style known.

 

--Daniel

[ashbridg]

OK, the decision is made: I will install a Fountainbel cartridge in this pen and not use the original felt seals. Thanks everyone for your input. Francis’s compelling arguments and Jim’s explanation of the old felt seals are the main reasons I changed my mind.

 

Francis, I appreciate your detailed description and I want to install your Mark 2 cartridge. Will the new cartridge be more difficult to install now that I removed the packing-unit capsule from the inner cartridge? Must I replace the existing packing-unit cartridge first?

 

Jim, you’re right that I already did the hard part, so why not put that effort to its best use? It is disheartening to hear that the old Sheaffer felt will fall apart, even in an unused pen. I had hoped it was more rugged, like the felt in a Stetson hat, and would last forever. Your practiced eye noticed the head gasket missing from the plunger rod. What happened is it hardened and fell off. New Vac-Fil gaskets arrived in the mail today from Ron Zorn, precision cut by hand from special rubber.

 

To folks thinking of restoring your Vac-Fils: Be careful where you get your rubber washers. I just took apart a newly restored pen and replaced the head gasket. It went limp after a week of use and failed to form a vacuum because the rubber was inferior. I had to do the job over again, a very discouraging experience that left me wondering why I like Vac-Fils.

 

So what about my authentic restoration project using Sheaffer’s original felt seals? I have not given up on the idea, but it’s a project for another pen. I still believe Marshall and Oldfield’s concept of “rejuvenation” has merit and plan to explore it further. Meanwhile, the Sheaffer packing-unit assembly, felt seals and all, will go in my Vac-Fil museum (a cigar box filled with broken pens I got on eBay).

 

Daniel: Regarding the size question, here are three Valiants (I think):

 

http://ashbridg.com/vac/valiants_500.jpg

From left: a TM Snorkel, a Touchdown “fat pen,” which I have also heard called a “one-year” pen, and a Vac-Fil with a wider girth than even the fat Touchdown.

 

http://ashbridg.com/vac/valiants_open_500.jpg

The middle pen, a Valiant Touchdown, has a serial number on the nib. I restored it with a larger o-ring supposedly made for a "one-year" pen (1948 or 1949?). The Valiant Vac-Fil on the right has a wider girth than the alleged "fat pen" next to it. The barrel diameter as measured roughly across the middle of the Vac-Fil barrel is just shy of 1/2 inch. The Touchdown is smaller by approximately 1/16 inch.

 

What do you make of these pens? Is the Touchdown in the middle a "fat" pen, and if so, what does that make the even wider Vac-Fil on the right?

 

Thanks,

Ashby

[fountainbel]

OK, the decision is made: I will install a Fountainbel cartridge in this pen and not use the original felt seals. Thanks everyone for your input. Francis's compelling arguments and Jim's explanation of the old felt seals are the main reasons I changed my mind.

 

Francis, I appreciate your detailed description and I want to install your Mark 2 cartridge. Will the new cartridge be more difficult to install now that I removed the packing-unit capsule from the inner cartridge? Must I replace the existing packing-unit cartridge first?

 

Ashby

 

Ashby,

Removing the worn packing unit is in fact the first step for mounting my V2 cartridge, after this Installation is a piece of cake :

My V2 cartridge just pops in the the bore of the internal ink container, radially sealed with an Oring in the cartridge.

The cartridge is axially enclosed after screwing the barrel on.

See the attached Photobucket link:

Regards, Francis

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/fountainbel/V2installation.jpg

[ashbridg]

My Fountainbel cartridge arrived today.

The installation is complete. The pen fills nicely and writes like a dream. Thanks Francis.

 

http://ashbridg.com/valvac/foun_all_600.jpg

The Fountainbel is on top of the pen's cartridge reservoir.

 

http://ashbridg.com/valvac/foun_open_300.jpg

This Valiant Vac-Fil with wide girth was probably made in the late 1940s.

 

http://ashbridg.com/valvac/foun_capped_300.jpg

It has a white dot

 

http://ashbridg.com/valvac/foun_open2_300.jpg

and a large Triumph Lifetime nib.

 

http://ashbridg.com/valvac/foun_write_600.jpg

This is my best writing Vac-Fil yet.

Edited March 1, 2011 by ashbridg

[fountainbel]

Glad to read installation went well !

Fast and easy is it not?

Francis

[amyx231]

y does everyone keep talking about a white dot!

[kirchh]

y does everyone keep talking about a white dot!

Mmm...not sure what you mean; it's only ben mentioned once in this thread.

 

--Daniel

[amyx231]

but it gets mentioned everywhere on FPN as a whole. whats so special about it? its not pretty at all!

[kirchh]

but it gets mentioned everywhere on FPN as a whole. whats so special about it? its not pretty at all!

It is an attribute found on some of Sheaffer's better pens.

 

I don't understand your reference to your opinion of its attractiveness. Surely you are not arguing that others should have the same aesthetic tastes as do you?

 

--Daniel

[amyx231]

oh. i thought it was a design difference. I was wondering why the heck they designed special pens with white dots (i wanted purple dots itc, lol)

[ashbridg]

oh. i thought it was a design difference. I was wondering why the heck they designed special pens with white dots (i wanted purple dots itc, lol)

A purple dot? Ken Kesey would approve. One pen has a burgundy dot (the middle one in the photo of three pens above). I don’t know that Sheaffer did that on purpose, but it’s neat, makes the pen stand out. I’d like to have a dot that glows in the dark. Or one with a laser beam. You could use it as a pointer. Sheaffer’s dots help identify the make and model of the pen. Over time the dot moved all over from the barrel end to the clip. All three pens above have different dots. The left pen has a raised dot that can actually be removed (you could dye it purple and replace it). The dot originally was a marketing tactic that meant a lifetime guarantee. Sheaffer doesn’t honor it any more though.

 

Ashby

[teej47]

One pen has a burgundy dot (the middle one in the photo of three pens above). I don’t know that Sheaffer did that on purpose, but it’s neat, makes the pen stand out.

 

Many of the burgundy pens have shown a tendency for the color to bleed into the white dot, for whatever reason. My burgundy Snorkel Valiant has a pink dot too. I don't believe I've heard of this happening with other colors though.

 

Tim

[ashbridg]

One pen has a burgundy dot (the middle one in the photo of three pens above). I don’t know that Sheaffer did that on purpose, but it’s neat, makes the pen stand out.

 

Many of the burgundy pens have shown a tendency for the color to bleed into the white dot, for whatever reason. My burgundy Snorkel Valiant has a pink dot too. I don't believe I've heard of this happening with other colors though.

 

Tim

That's probably what happened. I put a loupe on the Vac-Fil dot and it gets whiter toward the center, which suggests it didn't bleed all the way through the dot. I wonder why that only happens with burgundy. Seems odd that Sheaffer didn't fix it. Maybe they liked it.

 

Ashby

[amyx231]

lifetime guarantee, eh?

i wish they keep it-then again, whose lifetime? :roflmho:

[ashbridg]

Glad to read installation went well !

Fast and easy is it not?

Francis

 

Hi Francis,

It was so easy I thought I was doing something wrong. I had already removed the packing unit, so there was nothing to it, a piece of cake. I just smeared a dab of silicone on the cartridge and popped it into the pen. It works like a charm. If they had pen Oscars you would win an award. And the shipping was speedy, too. I was surprised how quickly the parcel arrived. I definitely plan to fit more pens with the Fountainbel cartridge.

 

Thank you,

Ashby