Cracked Section..

[rickboone]

I have a cracked section on an Esterbrook. Other than replacing, is there any chance of repair? Or, where might I find a replacement section?

[hardyoyo]

Hi, if you're keeping it for you, you could try to solvent weld the crack. I wouldn't recommend trying that on a pen you're planning to resell. If you think some day you might resell the pen, I'd buy a replacement section. I've asked the same question over in the parts forum, and have gotten a couple replies. You can also check with esterbrook.net. Just be sure to tell them what size you're looking for (J, SJ/LJ, etc.) .

 

--Hardy

[rickboone]

I have emailed esterbrook.net and look forward to their response. Thanks for your help. I don't plan to resell it ever, so a solvent weld may work fine.

[PDW]

I have a small dollar pen with a hairline crack on the section at the thread end. I'm not using it as I can imagine the crack opening up under writing pressure.

 

Have people use any particular solvent to weld such cracks, bearing in mind that the stresses on the repair might be considerable when a nib is screwed in and when writing, and that the threads into which a nib will screw must not be too badly distorted in the process?

[watchin]

I haven't ever heard the whole solvent welding process described, only made reference to as if it were common knowledge. I was able to purchase three sections last month by putting a WTB add in the classified here. I believe I paid $12 for them all. Keep in mind there are different sizes of sections and if you can specifiy the size barrel (i.e. J or SJ ) you will be ok. Dollar pens do not actually follow the same standard and I have sanded down a section to get a good, tight friction fit on a small dollar pen.

I would like to know more about the solvent welding process if anyone would care to share.

-William-

[pal38]

Could this solvent welding process be used also on pastel Esties cap hairline cracks? Sort of dipping the opening of the cap in a solvent (what solvent???) and then sanding and polishing ?

 

Has anyone any experience doing this?

[wpb]

I don't have any experience using solvent on Esterbrooks, but I have a little experience using solvents on plastics. You may be able to use a liquid solvent similar to plastic model cement (not the tube) that comes in a bottle similar to a ink bottle with a brush fastened on the cap.

 

I would use an old artist paint brush and carefully place a small amount in the crack and allow it to flow along the crack. It should flow as a result of capillary action. I would then gently squeeze the crack together. If the solvent is strong enough to melt (weld) the plastic effectively, you will see what appears to be glue squeezed out from the crack. If all goes well, this should actually be the melted plastic creeping up from the crack.

 

After it dries, you can sand the crack/plastic. If it sands well and the crack almost disappears (best case scenario), then it means that the solvent has melted the plastic and it should produce a strong bond. If it's sticky and messy, then you are basically sanding the solvent and the plastic didn't melt, so it didn't work.

 

Again, I have not done this on FP's but this is basically how plastic models are assembled and how to make the seams disappear. My guess is the FP plastic is too hard for model cement, but you can give it a try.

 

Edited to add: the trick is not to use too much solvent. You want the plastic to melt and if you use too much solvent the plastic will not melt/adhere.

 

Bill

Edited January 8, 2011 by wpb

[ttakacs]

I have used Oatey PVC Cleaner with success, mostly because it was around the house. You can get it at the hardware store. It is a mixture of methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) and acetone. Search the forum on "MEK" and the other chemicals and you will learn a lot about the process (I did, and it was very helpful).

[pal38]

I don't have any experience using solvent on Esterbrooks, but I have a little experience using solvents on plastics. You may be able to use a liquid solvent similar to plastic model cement (not the tube) that comes in a bottle similar to a ink bottle with a brush fastened on the cap.

 

I would use an old artist paint brush and carefully place a small amount in the crack and allow it to flow along the crack. It should flow as a result of capillary action. I would then gently squeeze the crack together. If the solvent is strong enough to melt (weld) the plastic effectively, you will see what appears to be glue squeezed out from the crack. If all goes well, this should actually be the melted plastic creeping up from the crack.

 

After it dries, you can sand the crack/plastic. If it sands well and the crack almost disappears (best case scenario), then it means that the solvent has melted the plastic and it should produce a strong bond. If it's sticky and messy, then you are basically sanding the solvent and the plastic didn't melt, so it didn't work.

 

Again, I have not done this on FP's but this is basically how plastic models are assembled and how to make the seams disappear. My guess is the FP plastic is too hard for model cement, but you can give it a try.

 

Edited to add: the trick is not to use too much solvent. You want the plastic to melt and if you use too much solvent the plastic will not melt/adhere.

 

Bill

 

Thanks a lot. Very helpful!

[pal38]

I have used Oatey PVC Cleaner with success, mostly because it was around the house. You can get it at the hardware store. It is a mixture of methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) and acetone. Search the forum on "MEK" and the other chemicals and you will learn a lot about the process (I did, and it was very helpful).

 

Thank you!