Polishing An Esterbrook Dollar

[jjlax10]

Just got an Esterbrook Dollar in black that needs a little more than a spit shine. Any reccommendations and cautions for how to do this?

[FarmBoy]

Just got an Esterbrook Dollar in black that needs a little more than a spit shine. Any reccommendations and cautions for how to do this?

High grit (2000-4000) sand paper and/or micromesh.

[jjlax10]

I have read Novus may be the way to go.

[Jack7770]

I've used micro-mesh 3600-12000 with good success. But first, clean the pen with a good soak, disassembled, in the ultrasonic; if you don't have an ultrasonic, a good soak will still get surface dirt. Then the micro-mesh, available at Woodcraft stores or online. And conclude with a good pen polish:I use Tryphon's Pen wax, sometimes Renaissance wax. Either will give a good gloss and reasonable protection. I haven't found Novus especially better than the gentle work with micro-mesh, but do mask the imprint and metal with small strips of masking tape to avoid reducing the imprint or scratching the metal. Then remove the tape before last polish. Happy cleaning! Jack

[Gobblecup]

Jack,

 

Is it safe to soak an Esterbrook, disassembled of course? I've heard many warnings about doing so but maybe that's just for when the pen is assembled?

[watchin]

I am pretty sure the warning is based on getting the snap ring( that holds the filler lever in place) wet. It is made of spring steel and I have removed some that were rusted through. The J bar is also made of ferrous metal and is subject to rust. Not to sound cynical but the humidity in the air, in your pocket or in the palm of your hand also introduces moisture into the body of the pen so it really isn't waterproof. You can soak it disassembled and dry it out with a cotton swab.

 

Some older lower tier pens used brass plating on the pressure bars. They corroded and then rusted.

My advice would be to get familiar with how to completely disassemble, repair and replace all parts in an Esterbrook. Once you can do this and have a few supplies/spare parts you will never have to fear any risky operation.

-William-

[OcalaFlGuy]

I have read Novus may be the way to go.

 

I certainly have not used all the liquid polishes but here is my general take.

 

If all you have is microscratches, ie; desk drawer wear, the various liquid polishes *may* suffice, but I think most of them (having not tried the Tryphon products myself) will take NUMEROUS applications to get any more than very light scratches out.

 

I DO know someone who gets unbelievable results with just Simichrome and I can't imagine how long it takes them with an averagely scratched pen (I know how long it takes ME and my method is MUCH faster than using just Simichrome.) And, I think Simichrome is probably more abrasive than most liquid polishes.)

 

I myself will use 600 oxide grit for bad/severe scratches (wet sanded), 1500 wet after that, and Simichrome after that. I have on the rarest of occasions actually used 400 grit on some scratches that were so bad, they probably should have been heat lifted out first just to see if I could do it. Anything more than 600 grit (wet) should be avoided until you've done several pens that way first. You can mess up the contour of the pen FAST with anything that aggressive.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL