Vac Pellet Pocket Help ...

[BrianDiPalma]

My first attempt at repairing a Parker Vacumatic was proceeding pretty well until it came time to get the previous pellet out. The filler unit came out easily with the help of a vac wrench and a tiny bit of heat. The hood came off easily enough. But in the process of trying to get the pellet out, I damaged the pellet pocket. Just for future reference, what is the best way to get a pellet out if I don't have a Dremel? I had read on Richard Binder's site that a sharp Exacto knife can be used to hack the pellet to pieces. I tried that and it didn't go well. Realistically the knife was on the dull side of sharp, but if there is a better way of removing the pellet without using a Dremel, then I'm open to suggestions. Also, now that this pellet pocket is a goner (at least, I'm assuming it is; a photo is below), it seems that my options are: A) get a new filler unit or B ) make a replacement from a Bic pen. I'd like to go with the latter option to save some money. But while I've seen it referenced many, many times in the repair section, I can't seem to find instructions on how to do it. Are there threads that detail the process (preferably with photos)? Thanks in advance.

Edited August 24, 2010 by BrianDiPalma

[Ron Z]

To the first part, IMO the best way to remove a pellet is with a Dremel and a small burr. I abandoned any other method years ago because they usually result in a broken pellet cup. Some folks will use a holder to hold the filler, and then drill out using a small drill bit in a drill press. I've never tried that though.

 

You want to use a Papermate biro, not a Bic. The Papermate has a tip that is shaped sort of like a pellet cup. Remove the metal tip, remove the ink tube, clean well with alcohol. You'll have to work it out from there - there are no step-by-step instruction that I know of. It's an alternative when you don't have a replacement available, but I usually rebuild units from parts of others that have failed in other ways.

[Tommy]

Here's a cheap dremel knock-off from harbor freight for $10.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-tools/80-piece-rotary-tool-kit-97626.html

 

You might want to spend a little more and get one with variable speed. It's a little less scary.

 

I like to use a rod shaped burr with abrasive only on the end, none on the sides. So if I touch the sides of the pellet pocket, no damage is done.

 

If it's any consolation, I mangled my first vac pellet pocket just like you.

[BrianDiPalma]

Thanks for the help and consolation. I didn't realize that there were knock-off Dremels. I wonder what the quality is like. I'll have to look into it. I used up most of the available funds to purchase the other tools that were needed and I didn't think a Dremel was going to be really important for this as I had read that an exacto knife could work. I suppose that a Dremel will be a good investment if it really is the best way and there aren't other methods that consistently work effectively.

 

Also, as it sounds like a replacement fill unit may be my best bet as I am just starting out with repair work, how much do those typically cost? It was from a Parker "51" Cordovan desk pen.

 

And for what it's worth ... I had another Vac (a red striped Duofold) that needed repair. I've been working on it for most of the morning and got it all back together with no problem. This time the old diaphragm was somewhat intact and I was able to just pull that out and the pellet popped out with it. So, I guess I got lucky on that one. But it is a great feeling to be able to take a nonworking pen and get it working again.

Edited August 24, 2010 by BrianDiPalma

[BrianDiPalma]

One more question ... what kind of material are the pellets supposed to be? I just removed the pellet from the old diaphragm that was in the striped Duofold. This one is a kind of dense rubbery substance that could have been pretty easily hacked/picked with an Exacto knife. The other one that was in the Cordovan Desk Pen is a very, very hard plastic that even once out of the pellet pocket I can't really hack away at it.

[Tommy]

One more question ... what kind of material are the pellets supposed to be? I just removed the pellet from the old diaphragm that was in the striped Duofold. This one is a kind of dense rubbery substance that could have been pretty easily hacked/picked with an Exacto knife. The other one that was in the Cordovan Desk Pen is a very, very hard plastic that even once out of the pellet pocket I can't really hack away at it.

I've only done about 10, but every one seemed to be hard plastic. Can't imagine cutting them up with a knife.

[Tommy]

Thanks for the help and consolation. I didn't realize that there were knock-off Dremels. I wonder what the quality is like. I'll have to look into it. I used up most of the available funds to purchase the other tools that were needed and I didn't think a Dremel was going to be really important for this as I had read that an exacto knife could work. I suppose that a Dremel will be a good investment if it really is the best way and there aren't other methods that consistently work effectively.

 

Also, as it sounds like a replacement fill unit may be my best bet as I am just starting out with repair work, how much do those typically cost? It was from a Parker "51" Cordovan desk pen.

 

And for what it's worth ... I had another Vac (a red striped Duofold) that needed repair. I've been working on it for most of the morning and got it all back together with no problem. This time the old diaphragm was somewhat intact and I was able to just pull that out and the pellet popped out with it. So, I guess I got lucky on that one. But it is a great feeling to be able to take a nonworking pen and get it working again.

 

 

Harbor freight tools are OK for occasional hobby use. Not going to stand up to all-day professional use, but unless you're grinding thousands of pellets, I think they're adequate.

[Ernst Bitterman]

For a replacement, my first thought is Ernesto Soler (parker51.com) just because he actually mentions having them for sale on his site.

[viclip]

Although I have a dremel, being clumsy I've shied away from using it. Instead I've devised the following totally safe methodology:

1) cut off about 1" or so of a 3/32" brass or copper hollow tube

2) slightly internally chamfer at least one end with a 3/32" or so drill bit

3) externally taper down that end with a fine file or whatever so it'll nicely fit into the pellet pocket

4) stick the tube into the pocket, applying slight pressure to hold the pellet

5) shove a 1/16" drill bit through the tube & manually turn it while holding the tube

6) the tube walls will protect the pocket from damage as the pellet is subjected to the drill bit

7) the really hard pellets should be turned once or twice to help damage them until they can be picked out easily

8) the softie pellets come apart in no time at all

 

I've also learned to use a union with a 5/16" hole as a "fixture", altho anything with such a hole could pretty well be used e.g. drill out a piece of 1/2" dowel or whatever. It needs to be long enough so that when the filler unit is inserted plunger end first, the tip of the plunger doesn't protrude while the unit rests against the fixture device on its retaining nut. This fixture gizmo isn't necessary however it makes the operation more comfortable thus faster, & protects the plunger in case I lose control of the darned thing (recall that I'm admittedly clumsy).

[PenFisher]

Here's a little guide. You are going to have to take your own exact dimensions and fabricate "as required" -- this is somewhat a "trial and error" method the first time you do it.

 

1. get your suppies ready : expoxy or crazy glue, donor Papermate Write Bros. pen

2. tools: fine emory board, sand paper or file, candle, smooth piece of metal or a piece of flat, smooth glass (like a small picture frame glass), and a heavy exacto type knife

 

Here's what I do:

 

1. remove the old pellet cup completely from plunger shaft being careful not to cut or break the shaft

2. take apart the rest of the filler unit completely for cleaning/inspection

3. from the section of the PaperMate pen cut the new pellet cup to proper size (try to replicate that of original pellet cup)

4. using emory board (or the like) smooth and round the outside edges of the end of the new cup that receives the pellet

5. test fit the new cup to the shaft

6. test fit the new cup with an old (or sacrificial) diaphragm with pellet inside

7. once fit is proper, light the candle and warm the pellet end of the new cup. When warm press this warm end down onto the glass or metal. Care must be taken to push straight down...this will somewhat flatten the leading edge and cause an inner lip to form that will hold the pellet. Test fit your old (sacrificial) diaphragm with pellet. Keep repeating this cycle until you feel the "lip" is sufficent to hold the new diaphragm/pellet in place.

8. re-smooth the outer edges of the end that takes the pellet and try to shape it as much as possible like the original cup.

9. reassemble the filler unit (collar, plunger and spring) and glue the new pellet cup in place on the end of the plunger.

10. When glue has cured you now can install a new diaphragm

 

Good luck!

 

Here's the donor pen

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4923241903_fa34bea604.jpg

 

Pull out section with tip and ink tube

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4923241993_66211534cb.jpg

 

Remove tip and ink tube - and clean the section of all ink

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4923242139_4700d33b11.jpg

 

Sketch of donor pen section - exact dimensions are determined on the workbench

using old pellet holder as a guide.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4923242379_88fe52f536.jpg

Edited August 24, 2010 by PenFisher

[Vintagepens]

One of the easiest and safest ways of clearing out the pellet pocket is to take a pin-sized drill, and drill a hole in the back of the pocket. You want to start the hole just to the side of the plunger shaft, and have it angle so that it goes towards the center of the pellet pocket's mouth (though the hole only has to go through the wall of the pocket, not into its contents. You then take a blunt-tipped pin, and use it to push the contents of the pocket (the old pellet and the attached diaphragm residue) out the pocket mouth. To make this work, you will have to apply gentle heat to the pellet pocket mouth area as you push, so that the mouth material becomes less brittle and more resilient.

 

This does leave a tiny hole in the pocket, but it has no functional or cosmetic effect once everything is put back together. It also drastically reduces the risk of damage to the pellet pocket.

Edited August 24, 2010 by Vintagepens

[BrianDiPalma]

Thanks to all for the wonderful tips and tricks! All of the various methods seem to have much more promise than what I tried. Now I 'have' to get several Vacs to experiment with the various methods ( ), each of which sounds great. And thank you, especially to penfisher for that photo tutorial about using the PaperMate WriteBros to make a replacement. Those instructions and photos are exactly what I was looking for.

[mikerx]

If you feel too clumsy with a standard Dremel or "Horrible" Freight rotary tool (I have one as my back-up...on sale now for $10) you may want to try the rechargeable Dremel stylus ($70). Pistol grip so it's easy to handle and variable speed with no cords! I love mine and use the small burr to remove pellets in short order! I also use it to redrill cap breather holes in Skyline gold-filled caps after securing the inner sleeve. IMO, good tools are always worth the investment.

 

Mike

[Garageboy]

So..how soon before we have to machine our own replacements?

[FredM]

Here's a little guide. You are going to have to take your own exact dimensions and fabricate "as required" -- this is somewhat a "trial and error" method the first time you do it.

 

1. get your suppies ready : expoxy or crazy glue, donor Papermate Write Bros. pen

2. tools: fine emory board, sand paper or file, candle, smooth piece of metal or a piece of flat, smooth glass (like a small picture frame glass), and a heavy exacto type knife

 

Here's what I do:

 

1. remove the old pellet cup completely from plunger shaft being careful not to cut or break the shaft

2. take apart the rest of the filler unit completely for cleaning/inspection

3. from the section of the PaperMate pen cut the new pellet cup to proper size (try to replicate that of original pellet cup)

4. using emory board (or the like) smooth and round the outside edges of the end of the new cup that receives the pellet

5. test fit the new cup to the shaft

6. test fit the new cup with an old (or sacrificial) diaphragm with pellet inside

7. once fit is proper, light the candle and warm the pellet end of the new cup. When warm press this warm end down onto the glass or metal. Care must be taken to push straight down...this will somewhat flatten the leading edge and cause an inner lip to form that will hold the pellet. Test fit your old (sacrificial) diaphragm with pellet. Keep repeating this cycle until you feel the "lip" is sufficent to hold the new diaphragm/pellet in place.

8. re-smooth the outer edges of the end that takes the pellet and try to shape it as much as possible like the original cup.

9. reassemble the filler unit (collar, plunger and spring) and glue the new pellet cup in place on the end of the plunger.

10. When glue has cured you now can install a new diaphragm

 

Good luck!

 

Here's the donor pen

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4923241903_fa34bea604.jpg

 

Pull out section with tip and ink tube

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4923241993_66211534cb.jpg

 

Remove tip and ink tube - and clean the section of all ink

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4923242139_4700d33b11.jpg

 

Sketch of donor pen section - exact dimensions are determined on the workbench

using old pellet holder as a guide.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4923242379_88fe52f536.jpg

 

I'm looking at the illustration of where the pellet goes and where the plunger goes and I am confused. Wouldn't the plunger go into the bigger end? Or am I just looking at the drawing wrong?

[FredM]

Well in the words of Emily Litella "Never mind". I got several Papermates and went to work. Sometimes I'm hardheaded or I just can't see what's right in front of me. I made a pellet cup tonight going exactly by the directions above and it worked perfectly. The donor pen is black the cup looks almost as good as the original. Thank you very much Penfisher for the excellent directions and illustrations!

[Breandan]

I have replaced the diaphragms in several of my 51 vacs normally.

However in a few of the 51 vacs that I bought on EBay the complete plunger unit was already a write off so I experimented. Prepare to be shocked.......

I simply discarded the filling mechanisms altogether and turned the pens into eye droppers.

All that's necessary is a suitable ink-tight spring-loaded plug that is held in place by the blind cap to keep the pen air-tight.

For a stopper/plug, I use an approx 1.5 cm length of plastic tube with a V shape at the end which is pushed into the aluminium tube where the plunger used to be. Next I place a spring from a discarded ballpoint into the open end of the plastic tube + a drop of epoxy to keep the spring from falling out of the tube. The blind cap compresses the spring and keeps the plug in place and I have never yet had a leak.

A trick in filling the pen - I fit a rubber teat over the nib end and fill the pen with a syringe through the aluminium tube, then put back my plastic stopper and the blind cap. Take off the rubber teat and the job is done.

This way I can quickly fill with at least 2 ml of ink, certainly with a larger volume than using a diaphragm to suck it up. Cleaning out the pen is similar - just put water in the syringe and blow through!

I use my pens for writing, not as collector's items and so I'm not worried about my unorthodox changes to the original filling mechanism. Anyway, as I said, my method of filling is quicker, more efficient and has no moving parts!

Breandan

[OldGriz]

 

However in a few of the 51 vacs that I bought on EBay the complete plunger unit was already a write off so I experimented. Prepare to be shocked.......

I simply discarded the filling mechanisms altogether and turned the pens into eye droppers.

All that's necessary is a suitable ink-tight spring-loaded plug that is held in place by the blind cap to keep the pen air-tight.

Breandan

 

As a professional restorer all I can say is SACRILEGE...

Plastic filler units for the 51 can still be had at reasonable prices...

[viclip]

 

However in a few of the 51 vacs that I bought on EBay the complete plunger unit was already a write off so I experimented. Prepare to be shocked.......

I simply discarded the filling mechanisms altogether and turned the pens into eye droppers.

All that's necessary is a suitable ink-tight spring-loaded plug that is held in place by the blind cap to keep the pen air-tight.

Breandan

 

As a professional restorer all I can say is SACRILEGE...

Plastic filler units for the 51 can still be had at reasonable prices...

 

Can you recommend a vendor or two who supplies Vac filling units, thx in advance!

[eckiethump]

I use my pens for writing, not as collector's items and so I'm not worried about my unorthodox changes to the original filling mechanism. Anyway, as I said, my method of filling is quicker, more efficient and has no moving parts!

Breandan

 

Very acceptable solution, Parker recognised the frailties in the vacumatic filling system and improved it with the aero system, for a user pen you have increased the ink capacity.

It's not a repair or a restore, but a solution for a problem pen.

 

et