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Polish/ finish work on a pen


seanruss

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Hello all, What is everyone's favorite or preferred method and materials to remove scratches and polish up an Esterbrook pen? I have several J models some of which could use some finish work.

Thanks

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You'll no doubt get a number of suggestions; here's what I do with Esties and most other pens: clean nib,section, and cap in ultrasonic (or long soak and clear by blowing or using a squeeze bulb). For the barrel and cap, if scratched or marred, I use micro sheets from 3600 to 12000 grit (available from WoodCraft as mesh wood polish kit) or if minor marring, I use Tryphon's micro glass liquid polish, and in each case finish with Renaissance micro wax. On a black pen, I often use Tryphon's Pen Wax for a high gloss.. Hope this helps,Jack

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The key to any restoration IMHO is patience and elbow grease. I tend not to use aggressive materials unless the pen really has some deep distress. The Esterbrook J's that you have are made of a remarkably strong and durable material and will handle fairly aggressive restoration if needed. They will also come back to a mirror finish if you are willing to put in the time. I normally use Semi-chrome as the first polish of choice to get a nice smooth finish. Then, I will use one of the many waxes that are around. I like all of the waxes from Tryphon and use different ones depending on what I happen to have at hand at the time. Just take your time and you will get a better than new finish with a little effort. Good luck and have funthumbup.gif

Edited by PenFisher
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The repair forum has a pinned item that got me started polishing my Esties. I use micromesh and like how it works. I've also tried the OcalaFlGuy mother of all polish routine (somewhere in this forum) and it works for me but not as well as it works for him. Esterbrooks are good pens to learn on--they are very sturdy--not like the post from the fellow who was operating the level to fill a pen and the barrel snapped in two (that would really hurt).

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Hello all, What is everyone's favorite or preferred method and materials to remove scratches and polish up an Esterbrook pen? I have several J models some of which could use some finish work.

Thanks

You should check in the Brother Bruce, he is the Father of the Mother of all polishing regimens.

San Francisco International Pen Show - The next “Funnest Pen Show” is on schedule for August 23-24-25, 2024.  Watch the show website for registration details. 
 

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Yes, people from Poland and people from Finland can, and do, work on pens and I'm sure that some do fine work. BTW you spelled Finnish incorrectly.

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Hello all, What is everyone's favorite or preferred method and materials to remove scratches and polish up an Esterbrook pen? I have several J models some of which could use some finish work.

Thanks

You should check in the Brother Bruce, he is the Father of the Mother of all polishing regimens.

 

Keep in mind that polishing a pen or not is a matter of personal taste. There was a poll here last year that showed about an even split between those that wanted a pen to show every scar and usage mark from the day it was made and those that at least when THEY started making their OWN marks on them, preferred them shiny. It's your pen, do with as thou wilst. Just don't think *everyone* feels the way you do. This regimen came from me restoring pens for My Own Use. My personal feeling was since I was doing all I could to make the INSIDES as close to the day the pen was made, to do other than that to the outside would be doing a half a**ed job. (I also had what I considered to be the ultimate in restorations to inspire me, those done by Toulouse.) This is not something I do perpetually to my pens, it's a one time deal. I'm not so concerned with usage marks on my pens, it's just my preferece that those marks be made by ME.

 

This is the method I use now. The best part of it (besides the result) is that other than the Simichrome, the other materials are as close as any well stocked hardware store such as an Ace or Tru-Value. As there are some that will argue the premise of shiny to start with, there are some that will argue this method and materials. The one thing that IS hard to argue with is the result. (At least if shiny is the intention)

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/97184-please-share-your-mother-of-all-polishing-regimes/

 

There are also some good pointers in this The Original Mother of All Polish Regimens even though I no longer use rubbing compound as the primary 1st step. (Cursor down to about the 8th post.)

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/89509-some-estie-eye-candy/

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

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Bruce, do you do anything to cover the barrel imprint when you polish, or do you just carefully work around it? I have been covering it with a little strip of that blue painters tape that I cut to size, and that seemed to work well. I also used that tape to block off the lever box, but if enough liquid is used, it could easily cause the tape to slide off since it doesn't seem to adhere to the lever as well. I love a good polished pen, but I hate barrel imprints that are polished away!

 

--Stephen

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Bruce, do you do anything to cover the barrel imprint when you polish, or do you just carefully work around it? I have been covering it with a little strip of that blue painters tape that I cut to size, and that seemed to work well. I also used that tape to block off the lever box, but if enough liquid is used, it could easily cause the tape to slide off since it doesn't seem to adhere to the lever as well. I love a good polished pen, but I hate barrel imprints that are polished away!

 

--Stephen

 

Stephen, yes, as I think I mentioned in both versions of "The Regimen" I was then and do now mask off the barrel threads and the imprint. I use (auto body) green masking tape as I like that it can stay on for days and still be removed with little if any residue. While I don't think I mentioned it before now, I DO now ALSO cut very thin strips for the cap jewel trim ring, the cap ring, the lever itself and the barrel jewel trim ring. It does take some patience and trial and error to mask off exactly the very last barrel thread and no more of the unthreaded barrel and to cut the very small strip exactly the size but no bigger to cover the lever and the imprint with. All tape EXCEPT the barrel threads and imprint come off when I start to Simichrome. When I'm done with the rest of the pen and the Simichrome, then I remove the imprint tape and schmear just a thin film of Simichrome on my fingertip and go over the imprint. Doing it that way cleans up the imprint area and helps it blend into the more highly polished barrel while at the same time NOT caking any Simi in the imprint or degrading the imprint any (that I've been able to tell).

 

While IMO, Simichrome is safe for Esties, it does have a nasty side to it. It does tend to get into places you don't want it to. It IS MUCH EASIER to remove from those areas sooner than later. I WILL also agree with those who say that traces of remaining Simichrome NOT removed from any "restored" pen is very amatuerish.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

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While IMO, Simichrome is safe for Esties, it does have a nasty side to it. It does tend to get into places you don't want it to. It IS MUCH EASIER to remove from those areas sooner than later. I WILL also agree with those who say that traces of remaining Simichrome NOT removed from any "restored" pen is very amatuerish.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

 

I know how that is. I got a Sheaffer flat top from eBay a couple weeks ago and there was some kind of paste embeded in the nib slit and between the nib and feed. :(

 

--Stephen

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I would like to add an amen to Brother Bruce's regimen. I have used the Simichrome/Auto Carnauba Wax routine to bring a mirror shine to a couple of antique store finds. I definitely fall into the "prefer mirror finish" group. I have not had to resort to the auto compound or wet/dry sandpaper step yet but I have a pretty beat-up silver SJ on which I will try it. It will be a good practice pen. As a noob, I appreciate all the great info that many members are willing to share in these forums.

Brett

The secret of zen is just two words, not always so.

Shunryu Suzuki

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Had some time this afternoon so I went down to the auto parts store and picked up some 1500 wet/dry sandpaper. Took the beat up silver SJ and gave it the full three step treatment, 1500 wet sandpaper, Simichrome, Meguiar's carnauba wax. I think the previous owner was a pen chewer as the cap was really pitted and gouged on both sides of the clip. It felt like a washboard when you ran your finger up and down the cap. After the treatment the cap is smooth to the touch and looks much better and has a beautiful mirror finish. Still some pits due to the deepness of some of the original gouges but the addition of the sandpaper made a world of difference. I had previously gone over this pen with just Simichrome and wax but it is much better looking now. Tried to do some before and after photos but it is hard to see the full extent of the change due to the mottled texture that makes the Esties so beautiful.

Brett

post-14259-126920914988.jpg

 

 

post-14259-126920958477.jpg

 

 

post-14259-126920959524.jpg

 

The secret of zen is just two words, not always so.

Shunryu Suzuki

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Oops. Forgot to add text for the pics. The first picture is before, the second two photos are after. Sorry that the lighting was different and so made the pen look like a completely different color.

Brett

The secret of zen is just two words, not always so.

Shunryu Suzuki

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