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Noodler's Bad Blue Heron.

Inka

By Inka
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Inka

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Seeing Bad Blue Heron for the first time didn't really impress me.

Some call it chalky, I just thought it looked bland.

At times, depending on pen/paper used, it looks a bit like semi-faded denim with just a hint of blue turquoise...

 

http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu56/InkaFX/NoodlersBadBlueHeronReview.jpg

 

My typical Wash Test, this ink stood up well to what I threw at it.

Looks nearly the same after washing as it did pre-washed, not bad...

 

http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu56/InkaFX/BadBlueHeronWashTest.jpg

“I view my fountain pens & inks as an artist might view their brushes and paints.

They flow across paper as a brush to canvas, transforming my thoughts into words and my words into art.

There is nothing else like it; the art of writing and the painting of words!”

~Inka~ [scott]; 5 October, 2009

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tanesiir Near Mint

tanesiir

Posted
Posted

Seeing Bad Blue Heron for the first time didn't really impress me.

Some call it chalky, I just thought it looked bland.

At times, depending on pen/paper used, it looks a bit like semi-faded denim with just a hint of blue turquoise...

 

If your scan is anything to go by, it is sorta like Diamine Steel Blue: greenish rather than blue.

I like that. But is the nib creep as bad as it is with all the other bullet proofs? I didn't notice you

mention anything about that.

—tane

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dandelion Collectors Item

dandelion

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Great and thorough as always, Inka! I've also experienced dryness - on the verge to flowing problems in some fine nibs - but I really like this colour and try to use it in wet writers. Thanks for adding comparative samples.

*****the dandelion blog is right here*****

*****the dandelion flickr is right here*****

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Inka

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...is the nib creep as bad as it is with all the other bullet proofs? I didn't notice you

mention anything about that.

Since I was using a Pilot "Capless", or "Vanishing Point" ["VP"] as they're often called, the nibs are sooo tiny I didn't even look for "creep", thus no mentioning of it here.

I would imagine there to be some creep seen on stamped/engraved/decorated and larger nibs, but to what extent I can't say at this time having not tried it in other pens just yet, sorry.

Someone else here that's used or is using it in a larger nibbed pen please feel free to chime in with observations on "creep or no creep".

 

Great and thorough as always, Inka! I've also experienced dryness - on the verge to flowing problems in some fine nibs - but I really like this colour and try to use it in wet writers. Thanks for adding comparative samples.

Thanks and you're welcome.

Over the past several months I've been making sure all the slots on all of my nibs have just a tiny bit of slot-gap at the tips, generally thinner than a human hair in width after my adjustments {or @ > .004" wide}.

Another example of just how fine a gap I leave at my nib tips would be that 20# Hammermill Copy Plus paper, the paper I'd used for this review, is @ .0045" thick and is too thick to fit inside the tip slots on my adjusted nibs, still enough for good flow.

I've been doing nib customizing more frequently of late, for friends and forum members alike, just finished re-working and smoothing 5x Pelikan nibs in both stainless steel and gold along with 2x vintage Sheaffer's where one had major start-up problems.

Having re-worked about 20+ Pelikan nibs to-date, and many other brands pushing me over the 100-nib mark I'm sure, I've found the majority to have had the tips so tightly pressed together they were hard-starters, usually needed the nib tip pressed to get the initial ink flow to paper.

Needless to say using a more saturated ink only magnifies this "flow problem", I've found that following what's suggested by Nathan Tardiff of Noodler's/Luxury Brands or e.g. "Light passing through the nib tines without pressure or effort" not only helps Noodler's inks flow but other brands as well.

Now all of my pen nibs are adjusted in this manner, I can just barely see light passing through the tip slot using a 20x Coddington loupe, all my nibs now allowing ink to flow to paper with first contact, no pressure applied.

As mentioned, Pilot VP nibs are "tiny", very tiny, the feeds too are so small that the channels aren't even as wide as a common sheet of paper, yet I'm not having any flow problems at all using Bad Blue Heron in my "VP" Japanese Medium, having made sure there's that tiny "ray of light" at the tips {I've also gently re-shaped that nib into a moderate Cursive Italic, as evidenced by the line variation seen in my written review}.

It's "possible" any flow issues using this or other inks can be corrected by merely adjusting, or having adjusted, your nib slots @ the tips; so far that's works for me every time.

Note: flow can also be adjusted by the distance found between feed top & nib underside, usually right around the breather hole of most nibs, but the slot @ tip width seems to be the major influencing factor in proper ink flow, at least that's what I've found to be the case so far .

“I view my fountain pens & inks as an artist might view their brushes and paints.

They flow across paper as a brush to canvas, transforming my thoughts into words and my words into art.

There is nothing else like it; the art of writing and the painting of words!”

~Inka~ [scott]; 5 October, 2009

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bphollin Collectors Item

bphollin

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...is the nib creep as bad as it is with all the other bullet proofs? I didn't notice you

mention anything about that.

I would imagine there to be some creep seen on stamped/engraved/decorated and larger nibs, but to what extent I can't say at this time having not tried it in other pens just yet, sorry.

Someone else here that's used or is using it in a larger nibbed pen please feel free to chime in with observations on "creep or no creep".

Yes, I will jump in here and say that it is "Creepy" on a Pelikan M805. What's more, it is a PITA to wipe off! You summed this ink up well with this fine review. I was hoping for more with the ink...

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