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Onoto Plunger Filler - Repair & Restoration help needed


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15 replies to this topic

#1 craynerd

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Posted 09 March 2009 - 23:40

Hi guys

I am really in need of some help as I am at a total none starter with these two onoto pens I have come across in my "to repair" collection. I was originally going to trade them as "pen for repair" but I have been dipping with the nibs and they are fantastic! I just love the flex and want them for myself. I`m really struggling - I have read all about plunger fillers on Richardspens and also read this full article on how to strip and service an onoto, yet I`m still none the wiser! If the article had pictures I`d be fine but as a block of text, I`m confused:

http://www.penmuseum...uk/master 3.htm

OK, so here are my pens:



And one of the lovely nibs:



Ok, so I follow the instructions in terms of screwing off the nib and I meet my first problem - with one pen I have a little plunger sticking out the end of the pen (when the plunger is pushed in) but on the other one I don`t see the plunger and there is nothing to get hold of but there is a little washer sitting there. So one of them looks like this, you can see the plunger sticking out:



Following the instructions - the plunger can be unscrewed and removed from the rod:



Quote from the site above, at this stage: 3. The cone assembly and plunger are now detached from the rod and comprise two parts held together with a hard rubber pin. This is usually a friction fit but sometimes threaded (right hand thread). Knock out the pin with a fine steel punch and separate.

So is the picture above of the cone and plunger - I can`t see any pin?!

And from here I can`t follow any of the further instructions (on both the "front end" and any of the "back end"). Has anyone any idea where to go from here and what repair parts I am going to need, possible a source for them?


The other pen seems to be even more of a challenge, with the nib off and looking down the barrel, even with the rod pushed in, there is no plunger sticking out the end, now is this a different type of pen or is the plunger missing - can they be replaced?



I would really really appreciate it if someone could lend some advice. I realize I could send these off for repair but I want to try and achieve this myself like I have with a large number of lever fillers and also my P51 aero. I enjoy my pens even more with the knowledge that I restored them.

Any advice would be more than appreciated - can anyone else follow the instructions? Where do I go from here?

Chris

Edited by craynerd, 09 March 2009 - 23:45.


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#2 craynerd

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Posted 09 March 2009 - 23:47

p.s. Does anyone have a picture of one of these in bits/dismantled? I think that would be really useful to see what parts I should have and how a complete pen filling system should look.

Chris

#3 AllWriteNow

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Posted 09 March 2009 - 23:54

QUOTE (craynerd @ Mar 9 2009, 07:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
p.s. Does anyone have a picture of one of these in bits/dismantled? I think that would be really useful to see what parts I should have and how a complete pen filling system should look.

Chris


It isn't immediate but...
Jim Marshall/Laurence Oldfields' book has a very detailed procedure and great photos for the repair of these pens.
Available from Dr. Oldfield's site www.penpractice.com
Steve
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#4 soapytwist

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 00:03



The wide 'skirt ' bit towards the right side of this piece is actually the washer that needs replacing. It's rock hard on yours, but should be a soft rubber washer that's flat. Just to the left of it on your photo is a small round indentation - this is the end of the pin that holds the left half of the piece to the right half (you'll find another indentation on the opposite side). The pin needs to be pushed out, with something thin and flat-ended - I use a cut-off hatpin, but a paper clip may well do the job. At this point it should come apart, leaving you with:

1. The pointy left-hand end (if your Onoto has a pointy-ended plunger, it means that when you screw the filler knob closed, the ink flow is stopped to the nib. Therefore, to write you need to open the filler knob half a turn before writing. More modern pens have a flat end and so no shut-off valve).
2. The perished washer
3. A smaller hard washer (keep this, you need it)
4. The back end that the washers post onto
5. The pin that joins the back end and the pointy end

Re-assembly (with a fresh washer) is the reverse of this. Note that the pin is fragile. Many people use a paperclip cut to the right length to replace the pin.

For the other pen, it looks like your plunger (and/or the rod) may be missing - difficult to see without a better picture).
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#5 soapytwist

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 00:10

I'll try to post some photos tomorrow. Have you got got replacement washers and corks yet? I'd suggest getting those first before taking everything apart. Best to do it all at once!
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#6 craynerd

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 06:41

Soapytwist - thanks for your info. I look forward to your photo.

The second one, the rod is there, I think it is just missing the plunger - the rod is running through upto about 1 cm from the end when pushed in.

Chris

#7 soapytwist

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 21:25

SNB13882.jpg

Okay - this is the plunger with the pin half pushed out.

SNB13883.jpg

This is what you should have once the pin comes out and you've separated the front and back parts. The perished washer is bottom centre, and its replacement is bottom right.

SNB13884.jpg

Pop the small hard washer on first with the replacement on top.

SNB13885.jpg

Put the front end on, line up the holes, push the pin gently back in, and Robert is your proverbial mother's brother's civil partner...
I have noticed that the pin hole is sometimes drilled slightly off centre, and consequently the front end goes on only one way round.
The job should take about 30mins for the first one, and then about 5mins per job after that. I'm assuming you are following Arthur's instructions as well (lubricating with silicon grease etc.).

Now for the back bit; the cork. There is another pin on the filler knob. The ends are very difficult to see, especially if the pen has been well used and the knob is hard rubber, but it is there! I've removed it for this photo:

SNB13886.jpg

Once the pin is out, remove the filler knob (it is reverse threaded - this is easy to remember: attached to the rod either end is reverse thread and everything else is normal thread). Then grab the plunger and pull the rod out gently (the knob end with the pin hole in it is fragile in my experience). This should leave your pen looking like this:

SNB13887.jpg

The bit in the top is a threaded washer that needs to be unscrewed. There is a special double-pronged tool for this (looks a bit like the spanner that removes golf or cricket studs), but I'm naughty here. I stick one blade from a thin bladed pair of scissors into the hole and unscrew gently (it leaves two nicks on the inside of the washer, but I can live with that).

SNB13888.jpg

Ta-da! What is left in there is a very old bit of cork, which can be carefully gouged out with a pin. Once cleaned out you can insert your replacement. Here is the cork about a quarter of the way in:

SNB13889.jpg

Tamp it down, replace the threaded washer being careful not to scrape the cork with your scissor blade as you screw it back in tightly. Then gently screw the rod (remember it's reverse thread) through the cork until you can push it once the threads clear the cork. Be careful here as I've found that this end of the rod is the most fragile bit. Then screw the filler knob back on and replace the pin (this pin is the second most fragile bit to take care here too!). Job done (and don't forget to apply the grease when Arthur tells you to). Go and fill that badboy and enjoy! you'll soon know if you've done it wrong as once filled the ink comes out of the filler end if you turn it upside down with the filler knob unscrewed a little.

For parts I can only recommend people in the UK. First is Jim Marshall at the Pen & Pencil Gallery - he knew Arthur Twydle well and even made pen repair videos with him, and is always helpful. Someone else who recently got me out of a jam when I needed Onoto spares was Derrick Purser. A few others like Laurence Oldfield don't sell parts any more unfortunately.

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#8 eckiethump

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 21:51

QUOTE (craynerd @ Mar 9 2009, 11:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Has anyone any idea where to go from here and what repair parts I am going to need, possible a source for them?


Any advice would be more than appreciated - can anyone else follow the instructions? Where do I go from here?

Chris


As you know, I have the parts.
et
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http://www.wesonline.org.uk/

#9 craynerd

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 22:06

QUOTE (eckiethump @ Mar 10 2009, 09:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
As you know, I have the parts.
et


I figured asking you for parts not the best idea considering our latest interactions. Besides, I don`t have anything to trade.


SoapyTwist - I really never dreamed of such a fantastic explanation. Words are great but until you see an example, like they say, pictures speak 1000 words.

After looking at your photo - I have just tapped the pin out of the plunger section and understand now how this disassembles - it looks like one single part initially!

I will contact Jim Marshall to see if he can provide me with cork and washers. I am also in need of a brand new plunger part - as it is clear from your photo that I am missing the plunger section on one of the pens, the rod does seem to be intact. I am also in need of a clip for the cap on one of the pens.

I really really can`t thank you enough - I feel like when I have the parts, I can attempt this.

Chris Raynerd

Edited by craynerd, 10 March 2009 - 22:06.


#10 eckiethump

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 23:38

QUOTE (craynerd @ Mar 10 2009, 10:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (eckiethump @ Mar 10 2009, 09:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
As you know, I have the parts.
et


I figured asking you for parts not the best idea considering our latest interactions. Besides, I don`t have anything to trade.



Chris Raynerd


Your loss on both counts,
et
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#11 craynerd

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 23:59

W2FPN.gif lol ...



Edited by craynerd, 11 March 2009 - 00:04.


#12 hari317

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 06:55

Thank you Soapytwist and Craynerd. Even though I do not have any Onoto, this thread was very interesting and very informative.

Regards,
Hari

In case you wish to write to me, pls use ONLY email by clicking here. I do not check PMs. Thank you.

#13 eckiethump

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 09:14

QUOTE (craynerd @ Mar 10 2009, 11:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
W2FPN.gif lol ...





cloud9.gif

Edited by eckiethump, 11 March 2009 - 09:16.

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#14 craynerd

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 20:37

Well I spoke to Jim Marshall today and he can supply me with the parts needed. I`ll let you know how it goes, post any problems and show my results.

Chris

#15 craynerd

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Posted 14 March 2009 - 08:54

Well it looks like Jim will be able to help with the functioning internal parts but not the clip and caps - so I know this is a bit naughty reposting but if anyone can help me out with clips and cap tops please let me know:

I have posted this with pictures in the Wanted: parts and tools section:

http://www.fountainp...showtopic=99090

#16 slippery when wet

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 21:42

sales@custompenparts.co.uk

 

Has all you will need, hope this helps








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