Jump to content

Best Water Resistant Ink To Use In A Pilot Capless


mrhr

Recommended Posts

hello, I need to use waterproof ink at work, and the pilot capless is really practical for taking quick notes.

right now I have the diamine registrar's and the sailor sei boku. I used the registrar's for a week but cleaned it because what I've seen about the possible corrosion on metals, and with the nib unit on the capless being all metal I don't know if it's the right choice.

So after that I filled it with the sailor sei boku, which is not as water resistant but gets the job done. last week I went on vacation and today I went over all my FP and found that the capless's nib had dried up and even after removing as much as I could with a cloth it's skipping, so I guess I need to go soak it in water for a while. I checked the rest of the FP I have inked with the sei boku (a pilot C.H. 92 SFM nib, sheaffer imperial II deluxe and a jinhao x750 and they were working without problem)

 

well my question is, which water resistant ink is the safest to use on a capless without the risk of the nib getting dry if I don't use it for a couple of days, because I like to use all my pens during the week and I mainly use the capless during night shifts

Edited by mrhr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 11
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • mrhr

    4

  • cellmatrix

    3

  • rickygene

    1

  • Algester

    1

Top Posters In This Topic

have you tried pilot blue black? It is quite water resistant, and it is designed especially to work with your pen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

looks like the pilot/namiki black is definitely not that water resistant. I have also had problems with sailor sei boku drying on the nib.

Edited by cellmatrix
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely Pilot Blue. It will stand up to a long soak in the water. It also has some moderate lubrication, so the ink flows nicely. I never have problems with Pilot blue ink drying on my VPs. I've used Liberty's Elysium in my VP, and it looks great and has some water resistance, but it dries out after a couple days of non-use in my VP.

Favorite pen/ink pairings: Edison Brockton w/EF 14K gold nib and Noodler's 54th Massachusetts; Visconti Pinanfarina w/EF chromium conical nib and Noodler's El Lawrence; Sheaffer Legacy w/18k extra fine inlaid nib and Noodler's Black; Sheaffer PFM III fine w/14k inlaid nib and Noodler's Black; Lamy 2000 EF with Noodler's 54th Massachusetts; Franklin Christoph 65 Stablis w/steel Masuyama fine cursive italic and DeAtramentis Document Blue; Pilot Decimo w/18k fine nib and Pilot Blue Black; Franklin Christoph 45 w/steel Masuyama fine cursive italic and Noodler's Zhivago; Edison Brockton EF and Noodler's El Lawrence; TWSBI ECO EF with Noodler's Bad Green Gator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

By Capless I assume you are referring to the Pilot Vanishing Point. I used Noodler's Black in mine exclusively from Jan 2009 until last year with no problems, ever. It would sit unused for two weeks or more during our semi-annual plant shutdowns and vacations without the nib ever drying out.

 

I now have two VP pens and five nib assemblies: EF, F, M, M, and B. They have Noodler's Heart of Darkness, Black Swan in Australian Roses, and maybe Noodler's Bad Black Moccasin in the five nib assemblies (not in the same nib assembly). I make plastic caps that seal the inked assemblies air tight and they can sit for weeks without drying out - instant startup every time. I store the sealed inked assemblies in centrifuge tubes in a Nock Brasstown pen case. In just a minute I can switch out inked nib assemblies easily. I just checked the B nib assembly several days ago after it has sat unused for 3 weeks in the tube with my cap on it - wrote immediately as soon as he tip touched the paper.

 

I refill Pilot cartridges using an ink syringe or poly pipette (the cartridge opening is large enough to fill with the pipette). The Con-50 converter ink capacity is a lot less than the cartridges and it is very easy to check the ink level in the cartridge.

 

I used to use Namiki black cartridges until I found Noodler's Black and learned that it chemically bonds with the cellulose in paper for a totally permanent water proof, bleach proof, solvent proof ink. Its performance was as good as the Namiki ink ever was, and I could not tell the difference when I switched to Noodler's Black except that, once fully dried, there was no effect if the paper got wet at all.

 

I ran tests on Noodler's Black against ballpoint, gel, and other fountain pen inks: writing on a Post-It note and washing it under under tap water and rubbing the wet surface with my finger. Ballpoint, gel, and other fountain pen inks all washed away in varying degrees but the Noodler's Black was completely unaffected.

 

I have observed that when using Noodler's Bulletproof inks on ink resistant papers (Clairefontaine, Rhodia, etc.) some of the ink remains on the paper's surface and may smear when it gets wet and and is wiped. But the ink that penetrated into the paper never washed out.

 

If your VP dries out when retracted I would suspect that the seal may not be seating properly. Someone posted on FPN that they used an older Pilot converter in a new VP and it was the wrong length. The old converted did not let the nib assembly retract far enough to close the seal, so the pen dried out quickly. I use Pilot's metal cartridge cap over my cartridges - it is designed to provide the mechanism with the correct length of nib assembly for full operation and seal seating when extended and retracted. The current Con-20 and Con-50 converters do this also. I think the Con-20 squeeze converter holds the same amount of ink as a cartridge.

 

Some older VP pens apparently have lost their ability to seal with age. I would contact Pilot if my VP ever dried out in less than a week or two. Both of my VP's will start up immediately after several days. The first one, as I said, has gone two weeks unused. Since I retired they get used more often, but for shorter periods of writing.

 

I apologize for writing such a long epistle!! But having used one of these pens for some 16 years, I have had a lot of experience and they may be my favorite pens (along with several others of course).

Edited by graystranger

Eschew Sesquipedalian Obfuscation

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 for Noodler's Black. Been using it for years in my VP without an issue.

 

Algester, I've been clicking mine constantly (it's a bad habit but I can't help it) for 14 years and it is still going strong! Great engineering.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies

The sailor kiwaguro is like the sei boku so I imagine the problem is going to be the same

I'll try the noodler's ink, haven't so far because in Europe is more expensive (almost 20 I think it's going to cost me, maybe more) and also the drying time. I write above the line so I need a quickish drying ink.

Other thing is I'm using the con20 in a pilot capless décimo 2013,so I don't think there's a mismatch in size,I'll check it anyway, maybe I didn't press the converter till was fully set

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33577
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26766
    5. jar
      jar
      26105
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...