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This May Be A Dumb Question...but Here It Goes-


Jrr13

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When "mixing" ink, what exactly is meant? Can I mix my Waterman blue and Noodlers Black together to create a blue black ink, or just make my a blue a tad darker? Can I add black to my red ink to make it a bit darker, because right now it looks too pink for my taste?

 

By mixing I litterally mean just pouring parts of the ink in a seperate bottle, and then adding a little bit of either to make the perfect color combination. Can I do this or will I clog my pen same way?

 

Thanks,

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No question is dumb! Some are just more sophisticated than others!

 

Mixing ink is exactly what the name implies. You generally mix two different colors together to achieve another shade or a completely different color entirely. For instance, if you want a purple ink, you can mix a blue with a pink to get a solid purple (see my mix, Heart's Oblivion). If you want to darken a color, then add a dark ink to the original base color that you want to darken.

 

Here are some of my recommendations for mixing to get just the right color. First off, the logistical parts. I would 100% recommend mixing in a separate bottle, preferably a sample vial, like the ones found at Goulet Pens. This way, you don't waste too much ink if the mix goes wrong, and you don't have to toss a whole bottle out. Another thing is to either get some syringes with clearly marked graduations (volume markings a.k.a 1ml, 2ml, 3ml) or some plastic transfer pipettes. This would help you get precise amounts of a specific color, that you can record down, to make another batch of the same color or to post to FPN for us to see.

 

Now onto the recommendations for colors. If you want a specific color, such as a dark red per se, then use the lighter color as a base color. For instance, if you want a dark red, you would probably need a red and a black. The lighter of the two is red obviously, so start with a decent amount of red ink in a SEPARATE container. Around 2mL should be enough. Next, add small amounts of the darker color, black, to the base color. Go by 0.1mL if using a syringe and by 2 drops if using a pipette. The amount you need to add is entirely dependent on the saturation of the ink. Be sure to do a quick Q-Tip swab every few times to get a feel for the color you are getting. Also, keep a running tally of the amount of the darker color you are adding. After a few rounds of adding the darker color, you will begin to get the shade you want.

 

Time for me to list some color combinations and what they make, as I guess that will inevitably interest you. First color is base, and second color is added.

  • Pink + Blue = Purple
  • Orange + Black = Brown
  • Blue + Black = Dark Blue OR Blue-Black (Depends on what is blue-black to you)
  • Red + Black = Dark Red OR Brown (Depends on your red color. Must try yourself)
  • Red + Green = Brown
  • Green + Black = Dark Green
  • Blue + Green = Blue-Green OR Teal (Depends on how much green)
  • Black + Water = Gray

Well now that I got color combinations down, lets talk clogging. Inks are evidently made of chemicals. Some chemicals tend to react with each other (think baking soda and vinegar). Sometimes, inks contain chemicals which do not play nicely together and end up reacting. You may have learned in chemistry that some reactions create solids called precipitates. These things float around in the mix, and can end up clogging your pen. However, you have no idea what two inks mixed together will create a precipitate and which ones will not. As well, chemical reactions do take some time, so you may not see a precipitate forming right away. Therefore, I highly recommend that once you mix two inks, you let the mixture stand for a day without putting it in your pen, then check if anything developed. This is quite rare, but it does happen with some inks (I'm looking at your Baystate (( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)) ). I have honestly not had any mixes I made create precipitate, but I must tell you that it is ALWAYS a possibility. If no precipitate forms, the ink will probably not clog up your pen, as there is nothing to clog it with. If you want, you can search on FPN to see what mixes ended up causing precipitates for other people, and learn to avoid those mixes.

 

Well this was a long post, but I hope it is informational. I really enjoy mixing inks as it tends to get me a shade that I can't really find elsewhere. If you do everything carefully and don't spill anything, it should be a fun experience for you too! BTW, Welcome to FPN!

fpn_1434432647__fpn_1425200643__fpn_1425160066__super_pinks-bottle_200x159.jpg

 


Check out my blog at Inks and Pens

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No question is dumb! Some are just more sophisticated than others!

 

Mixing ink is exactly what the name implies. You generally mix two different colors together to achieve another shade or a completely different color entirely. For instance, if you want a purple ink, you can mix a blue with a pink to get a solid purple (see my mix, Heart's Oblivion). If you want to darken a color, then add a dark ink to the original base color that you want to darken.

 

Here are some of my recommendations for mixing to get just the right color. First off, the logistical parts. I would 100% recommend mixing in a separate bottle, preferably a sample vial, like the ones found at Goulet Pens. This way, you don't waste too much ink if the mix goes wrong, and you don't have to toss a whole bottle out. Another thing is to either get some syringes with clearly marked graduations (volume markings a.k.a 1ml, 2ml, 3ml) or some plastic transfer pipettes. This would help you get precise amounts of a specific color, that you can record down, to make another batch of the same color or to post to FPN for us to see.

 

Now onto the recommendations for colors. If you want a specific color, such as a dark red per se, then use the lighter color as a base color. For instance, if you want a dark red, you would probably need a red and a black. The lighter of the two is red obviously, so start with a decent amount of red ink in a SEPARATE container. Around 2mL should be enough. Next, add small amounts of the darker color, black, to the base color. Go by 0.1mL if using a syringe and by 2 drops if using a pipette. The amount you need to add is entirely dependent on the saturation of the ink. Be sure to do a quick Q-Tip swab every few times to get a feel for the color you are getting. Also, keep a running tally of the amount of the darker color you are adding. After a few rounds of adding the darker color, you will begin to get the shade you want.

 

Time for me to list some color combinations and what they make, as I guess that will inevitably interest you. First color is base, and second color is added.

  • Pink + Blue = Purple
  • Orange + Black = Brown
  • Blue + Black = Dark Blue OR Blue-Black (Depends on what is blue-black to you)
  • Red + Black = Dark Red OR Brown (Depends on your red color. Must try yourself)
  • Red + Green = Brown
  • Green + Black = Dark Green
  • Blue + Green = Blue-Green OR Teal (Depends on how much green)
  • Black + Water = Gray

Well now that I got color combinations down, lets talk clogging. Inks are evidently made of chemicals. Some chemicals tend to react with each other (think baking soda and vinegar). Sometimes, inks contain chemicals which do not play nicely together and end up reacting. You may have learned in chemistry that some reactions create solids called precipitates. These things float around in the mix, and can end up clogging your pen. However, you have no idea what two inks mixed together will create a precipitate and which ones will not. As well, chemical reactions do take some time, so you may not see a precipitate forming right away. Therefore, I highly recommend that once you mix two inks, you let the mixture stand for a day without putting it in your pen, then check if anything developed. This is quite rare, but it does happen with some inks (I'm looking at your Baystate (( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)) ). I have honestly not had any mixes I made create precipitate, but I must tell you that it is ALWAYS a possibility. If no precipitate forms, the ink will probably not clog up your pen, as there is nothing to clog it with. If you want, you can search on FPN to see what mixes ended up causing precipitates for other people, and learn to avoid those mixes.

 

Well this was a long post, but I hope it is informational. I really enjoy mixing inks as it tends to get me a shade that I can't really find elsewhere. If you do everything carefully and don't spill anything, it should be a fun experience for you too! BTW, Welcome to FPN!

 

 

Thanks so much for that lenthy post! It'll help me a lot

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Hi,

 

A few other tips you may find useful:

  • The risk exposure to an unsafe blend increases when inks of different 'families' are blended.
    • As such, I would not use Noodler's Black, which is a member of the cellulose reactive family, in combination with Waterman Blue (Serenity), which is a member of the simple aniline dye family.
    • Rather Noodler's Black + Noodler's Polar Blue OR Waterman Black + Waterman Serenity.
  • Be aware that some ink Co.s market inks from different families, so choosing inks by marque alone is not always a reliable indicator that they'll play nice together. e.g. Noodler's, Montblanc, Sailor, Diamine.
  • Take heed that Herbin expressly forbids blending of their inks. (That hasn't stopped me from giving it a go.)
  • Take heart that R&K green-lights intermingling of their FP inks, with a caution on the inclusion of their Sepia.
  • Keep good records. I set-up a template in advance of inky work, so that all samples are run, and they are positioned on the sheet/s to the best advantage.
  • Choose a pen to use for written samples of promising blends. (I use a dip pen from the Brause Ornament series.)
  • If using Black in a recipe, I suggest diluting it to see the underlying hue - many Black inks are a combination of various dyes that appear Black only when very dark - some may be Green or Blue masquerading as Black! Diluting Black ink also keeps the recipe ratios somewhat more manageable, and water as a third ingredient offers more flexibility when adjusting Value and Chroma. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/255652-tips-for-a-beginning-mixer/?p=2824580

Perhaps the most thorough Topic I've posted on blending inks is the one for conjuring Gal-Lexi, so that gives some form to my words. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/234049-noodlers-lexington-gray-galileo-manuscript-brown/?p=2517090

 

Whee!

 

Bye,

S1

 

__ __

See also

- Noodler's Ink Properties http://noodlersink.com/noodlers-ink-properties/

- A better dip pen nib https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/246789-a-better-dip-nib/?p=2690628

- Wiki 'Color Theory' http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_theory

Edited by Sandy1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.

 

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Great posts ^^^. Check out an ink's chromatography before blending (a bit like Sandy mentioned about some blacks not being pure blacks). Just type in the ink name and the word 'chromatography' in google and click on images. This shows you the different dyes in an ink so that when you are blending you know exactly what you're dealing with.

 

You can do it at home too: place a single sheet of kitchen paper towel on a plate, first put one drop of ink in the centre, then 5+drops of water. The ink will gradually separate out into its colours as it seeps across the paper towel. (Obviously this doesn't work with cellulose-binding waterproof inks due to their composition.)

 

I find chromatography invaluable, especially when I'm not dealing with CMYK inks. For example, I'm going to venture into Iroshizuku ink mixing, but their colours are all complex (Kon Peki might be the single exception), so Chromatography is essential to ensure I don't end up with muddy mixes.

 

There are a few CMYK ink mixing threads around on FPN that I highly recommend reading, particularly Linda Medley's on Noodler's CMYK. She's also done/doing a few other brands too. I learned a lot.

Noodler's Konrad Acrylics (normal+Da Luz custom flex) ~ Lamy AL-Stars/Vista F/M/1.1 ~ Handmade Barry Roberts Dayacom M ~ Waterman 32 1/2, F semi-flex nib ~ Conklin crescent, EF super-flex ~ Aikin Lambert dip pen EEF super-flex ~ Aikin Lambert dip pen semi-flex M ~ Jinhao X450s ~ Pilot Custom Heritage 912 Posting Nib ~ Sailor 1911 Profit 21k Rhodium F. Favourite inks: Iroshizuku blends, Noodler's CMYK blends.

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Great posts ^^^. Check out an ink's chromatography before blending (a bit like Sandy mentioned about some blacks not being pure blacks). Just type in the ink name and the word 'chromatography' in google and click on images. This shows you the different dyes in an ink so that when you are blending you know exactly what you're dealing with.

 

You can do it at home too: place a single sheet of kitchen paper towel on a plate, first put one drop of ink in the centre, then 5+drops of water. The ink will gradually separate out into its colours as it seeps across the paper towel. (Obviously this doesn't work with cellulose-binding waterproof inks due to their composition.)

 

I find chromatography invaluable, especially when I'm not dealing with CMYK inks. For example, I'm going to venture into Iroshizuku ink mixing, but their colours are all complex (Kon Peki might be the single exception), so Chromatography is essential to ensure I don't end up with muddy mixes.

 

There are a few CMYK ink mixing threads around on FPN that I highly recommend reading, particularly Linda Medley's on Noodler's CMYK. She's also done/doing a few other brands too. I learned a lot.

Very good ideas! I actually didn't do any chromatography previously when doing mixes, but I think I definitely should now.

 

To avoid doing that, you could actually just get some simple Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow inks, which are based on a single dye, as opposed to a combination of dyes.

fpn_1434432647__fpn_1425200643__fpn_1425160066__super_pinks-bottle_200x159.jpg

 


Check out my blog at Inks and Pens

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  • 3 weeks later...

No question is dumb!

 

You definitively were not at my morning meeting today... At least three people proved the opposite of your statement... :roller1:

fpn_1481652911__bauerinkslogo03.jpg
**** BauerInks.ca ****

**** MORE.... Robert Oster Signature INKS ****

**** NICK STEWART - KWZI INKs TEST ****

"The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it's the illusion of knowledge." -Stephen Hawking,

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You definitively were not at my morning meeting today... At least three people proved the opposite of your statement... :roller1:

 

 

But, at least I'm cute. :P

 

Sorry your meeting was full of Eye D Ten Dot Tees.

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

Create a Ghostly Avatar and I'll send you a letter. Check out some Ink comparisons: The Great PPS Comparison 

Don't know where to start?  Look at the Inky Topics O'day.  Then, see inks sorted by color: Blue Purple Brown Red Green Dark Green Orange Black Pinks Yellows Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal MURKY

 

 

 

 

 

 

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If you want to start mixing without problems I suggest you consider getting a Private Reserve mixing kit and inks from them.

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