Jump to content

Advice On Rescuing A Cracked Snorkel Section. From My First Failed Repair Attempt.


ironwampa

Recommended Posts

Long story short I had a crack on my open nibbed snorkel's section; now I have two. It didn't seem worth sending to anyone for repair since the repair would have probably cost more than replacing the part. Did and still do not have any qualms with leaving any scars on the pen since the thing was already badly banged up when I got it. I just don't want to have to waist a perfectly good replacement part when I can avoid it.

Note to self: don't try to fix anything without the heat gun handy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 4
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Ron Z

    2

  • ironwampa

    2

  • 3rdlakerobert

    1

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

If you don't mind looking at the crack, albeit a sealed crack, get some MEK at the hardware store (Ace chain carries it in quart cans). Swap the surface of the crack with a cotton swab and soon the crack will be sealed.

 

If you can open the crack and get some MEK into it, the repair will be less conspicuous.

 

MEK is methyl ethyl ketone and not available in every state. Naturally common sense don't use it in small enclosed areas. Outside is best.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

MEK is not the proper solvent for this plastic. You want something that contains methylene chloride. Use a good quality artists brush to apply from the inside. A cotton swab will put down a spot that is far too wide, whereas a brush will hold then release in a relatively small area. You can hold the repair closed using as stretchy electrical tape - Scotch 33+ is the best (for use as electrical tape as well, says the radio engineer turned pen mechanic)

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What should I do about ensuring that the threads do not get damaged while doing the repair? And what should I do to prevent another crack when screwing the nib unit back on? I suspect I am going to need to buy a new brush for this, what exactly constitutes high quality in this case? I would presume it means I need to use something that is not made with an artificial fiber correct?

 

Thanks for the advice, especially with the tape.

Edited by ironwampa

Note to self: don't try to fix anything without the heat gun handy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't worry about the threads. It's a water thin solvent, not an adhesive. High quality = camels hair or some other soft artists brush, not a cheap dollar store brush. Screwing/unscrewing is rarely the cause of a crack unless you put too much torque on the section or squeezed too hard with section pliers in the process of taking it out.

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33559
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26740
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...