Pelikan M100 Service

[a-pen-for-a-sole]

dear friends,

recently i bought a new pelikan m100, which is near mint condition. i want to clean it occasionally as to make it perform better. i can just unscrew the nib and the feed section from the body, i want to separate the nib and the feed section which are bound tightly with a threaded ring. how can i separate them? they are very tightly bound to gather and i am afraid that, if i use any force, feed may brake. please give an idea to separate them for cleaning purpose.

thanks

sriram

[Chi Town]

yes, you can unscrew the nib and feed from the section, you may want to soak the pen in water and a few drops of soap detergent to help get the dried ink out of this part of the pen 1st.

 

Now for the Ring, I forget what the material is called that the ring is made out of, I'm having a brain fart here :-)

be very carefull when trying to remove this ring as it can crumble on you......Then you have the fins to wory about as they are very delicate and you can damage them easily enough!

 

I have a Pelikan 140 that I am getting ready to remove this ring to re-set the nib, and right now I am not sure what I am going to use to try and soften up the ring to get it off. Need to do some thinking on this one......

 

Hope that I helped you out!

[SteveE]

My first question is why you feel that you need to take the nib/feed assembly apart. These are not designed to be taken apart, and generally do not need to be disassembled even after many years of use. You can get it as clean as you need to with just a good soak in cleaning solution, or maybe a few minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner. I've had my M1000 for over 10 years, and never had to do anything more than flush it with water.

 

I think many newcomers to this hobby read posts about others who believe that surgical cleanliness is necessary for proper pen function. This is most definitely not the case. If you read the manufacturers' instructions (pick ANY manufacturer), the most they recommend is flushing with water. Some service technicians use ultrasonic cleaners, others just soak the parts until clean.

 

If you take the nib assembly apart, you run the risk of not being able to re-assemble it properly, or of breaking the thin plastic collar that holds it all together. In either of these cases, the factory recommended repair requires a new nib assembly.

[sargetalon]

My first question is why you feel that you need to take the nib/feed assembly apart. These are not designed to be taken apart, and generally do not need to be disassembled even after many years of use. You can get it as clean as you need to with just a good soak in cleaning solution, or maybe a few minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner. I've had my M1000 for over 10 years, and never had to do anything more than flush it with water.

 

I think many newcomers to this hobby read posts about others who believe that surgical cleanliness is necessary for proper pen function. This is most definitely not the case. If you read the manufacturers' instructions (pick ANY manufacturer), the most they recommend is flushing with water. Some service technicians use ultrasonic cleaners, others just soak the parts until clean.

 

If you take the nib assembly apart, you run the risk of not being able to re-assemble it properly, or of breaking the thin plastic collar that holds it all together. In either of these cases, the factory recommended repair requires a new nib assembly.

I agree with this wholeheartedly. The collar should rarely ever need to be removed from the feed and nib. Attempts at doing so can result in damage. Nothing is gained by it in the course of routine maintenance. Removal should only occur to effect a repair. A soak is more than enough to clean and a brass shim can be used in the slit if there is any lingering concerns over a clogged feed.

[a-pen-for-a-sole]

dear sargetalon, steve E, chi town,

many thanks for your all. i realized my mistake, and never try to do the same mistake. as i handle parker 51, and clean each and every part, i thought that, the same can be done to pelikan. this is my first pelikan. i recently purchased one more pelika m100, still it didn't arrive. sargetalon, there is some flow problem with my pelika m 100, thats the main reason for cleaning it. how can i solve this problem. some times, when i write on a cheap quality paper, it bloats. i am using sheaffer-skrip black ink. is the problem with ink? now my edelstein (onyx) is on its way, along with the new m100. will my new edelstein solve the problem of bloating?

[sargetalon]

I'm not quite sure what you mean when you say "bloating." I would certainly try a different brand of ink if possible and see if the problem persist since different inks have different properties. Paper can also make a difference. Please describe "bloating" further and I will try to be of assistance.

[verm]

Sorry to dig up a month-old post, but does anyone know what piston seal replacement would work with the M100 white version? Would something like this be right? http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Cork-piston-seal-replacements-for-1930s-Pelikan-100-and-100N-/131473298087? Thanks a mil!

[stephanos]

Hello, verm, and welcome to FPN.

 

You ask about a replacement seal for the M100 white version, and link to an advert selling seal replacements for the 1930s 100 and 100N. I am far from being an expert on such matters, but I suspect that the M100 to which you refer is the white-barrel-black-nib version, which many call the 'stormtrooper' - in which case, I strongly doubt the replacement seals you link to would work.

 

The 'stormtrooper' version is a (relatively) modern pen, so unless it's been thoroughly abused I wouldn't have thought the piston seal would need replacement yet. As others can also attest, Pelikan seals are pretty tough, and are made to last a lifetime.

 

I assume that you're asking about replacement seals because you have a problem with an existing pen. I therefore wonder whether you really need to replace the seal in order to get it working again. The piston can get really stiff over time, making it very difficult to use the mechanism - particularly if there is lots of ink residue in the barrel - and I suspect that this may be your problem, rather than the seal.

 

Have you tried cleaning the pen, gently unscrewing the nib unit, and making sure the barrel is clear of ink? If the pen is very dirty, a long soak will really help. If the piston is extremely stiff, then a tiny amount of silicone grease should help (very lightly dip a toothpick in silicone grease, and insert down the barrel, scraping the outside edges of the seal, around the barrel). A friend gave me an old, neglected stormtrooper model about a month ago and after I did what I have just described, it works very well. This kind of servicing is really quite easy, provided you can be patient.

 

If it really is the piston seal that needs replacing, then I'm afraid someone more expert than I will need to chip in.

[sargetalon]

Hello verm and welcome. I'm inclined to agree with stephanos here. Perhaps you can describe your situation a bit further. These modern synthetic seals on the M100 are no more than 30 years old and tend to be durable unless abused. You would have to find a synthetic seal to replace it if need be. A lot of times, relubing the barrel is all that is needed. Seals between a 100 and an M100 are very different things.