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Which Pelikan Is This?


JDV

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I'm not an expert. For the clip, it looks a M400. If it says W. Germany (can't see on the picture) it was manufactured in the 1980s, otherwise 1990s.

 

Regards,

AM

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It´s a M400 old style because it´s very similar cosmetically to the Pelikan 400 from the 50´s, produced from 82 to 97.

 

The pen is complete, all parts are there. Check inside the barrel and you will find the spindle and the gasket / they can be seen in the picture inside the barrel actually.

 

Pull them out, insert them in the rotating piston, grease the gasket with come silicone grease and push back the piston/spindle/gasket unit back in to the pen and you should have a working pen again.

Edited by piscov

Best regards
Vasco

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Check out "Pena Lusa by Piscov". Pens added on a regular basis!

Link for Vintage Montblanc pens here

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Thanks again, I was afraid it was broken now I'm excited to have a working pen. Any idea as to the dollar value?

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These older M400's are great pens. If I may ask though, how did you manage to get the piston assembly out of the pen with the spindle and gasket retained in the barrel?

 

To answer your last question, these are frequently encountered in the $150 range. Sometimes they go for a bit less and if they have a particularly desirable nib, sometimes a bit more.

PELIKAN - Too many birds in the flock to count. My pen chest has proven to be a most fertile breeding ground.

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THE PELIKAN'S PERCH - A growing reference site for all things Pelikan

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Sarge, I think the spindle and gasket dried in the pen after yewars of non-use. Thank you for your valuation...pretty much what I expected. Haven't written with it yet, but I'm anxious to as it will be my first Pelikan.

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This is a very nice. I got mine from a seller on Ebay with a nice price with the "yellow and black box" from that time. The nib is a beautiful M. I really love that pen. enjoy yours! Please, tells us what happend when you finish putting it together.

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Sarge, I think the spindle and gasket dried in the pen after yewars of non-use. Thank you for your valuation...pretty much what I expected. Haven't written with it yet, but I'm anxious to as it will be my first Pelikan.

Yes, that's not uncommon. I only asked because these are friction fitted piston assemblies and are usually removed by inserting a dowel into the barrel via the section and ousting the piston out of the back end. I was curious if there was any damage to the back of the barrel or the piston retention mechanism since I see the piston without the seal/spindle. Hopefully all is we'll and reassembly will be without issue. Good luck.

PELIKAN - Too many birds in the flock to count. My pen chest has proven to be a most fertile breeding ground.

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THE PELIKAN'S PERCH - A growing reference site for all things Pelikan

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Well, I got the Pelikan together...I managed to get the screw top plunger back on the end of the rod and the mechanism works fine. Fairly smooth, takes up a lot of ink.

This is my first Pelikan, and I must say that even before inking it up.I was impressed with the flexibility of the nib, which is labeled "F". 14C, 585. Nice and springy, and I was looking forward to the line variation is was sure to produce. After flushing it thoroughly with water (seemed like it took forever to get the water to run out clear), I inked up with J. Herbin Poussiere De Lune ink.

 

This pen is a real gusher!! For fine point, it put down a very wet, broad line..much more like a medium, or even a broad in some Japanese brands.

But alas, I encountered problems with dry starts and skipping, and even stopping after a few lines..

So now I am soaking the nib in water, and I will let it soak a few days, before trying it again.

 

I looked at the nib tines under a loupe, and they seem to be fine. It's fairly smooth (Not nearly as smooth as my Pilot Custrom 823). Just something wrong with the way the ink is flowing, apparently. I can deal with how wet it is, but the false starts, skips and stops are a pain. I hope I can get it back to where it should be because I think it has a very "expressive"? nib.

 

Right now it's just soaking in water..any thing else I should do?

 

Thanks..

-JDV

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BTW, Barrel band just says "Germany" or "- Germany -", Still M? or maybe old 400?

 

"Germany" would indicate a date of manufacture sometime between 1990-1997. It still looks like an M400. If you have any doubts, look at the feed under the nib. Provided that the nib is original to the pen, longitudinal fins (running parallel to the barrel) would indicate a 400 feed and horizontal fins (running perpendicular to the barrel) would indicate an M400 feed.

PELIKAN - Too many birds in the flock to count. My pen chest has proven to be a most fertile breeding ground.

fpn_1508261203__fpn_logo_300x150.jpg

THE PELIKAN'S PERCH - A growing reference site for all things Pelikan

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Yes, that's not uncommon. I only asked because these are friction fitted piston assemblies and are usually removed by inserting a dowel into the barrel via the section and ousting the piston out of the back end. I was curious if there was any damage to the back of the barrel or the piston retention mechanism since I see the piston without the seal/spindle. Hopefully all is we'll and reassembly will be without issue. Good luck.

Actually, that is not a good way to remove the assemblies. You are better off soaking the pen in water and ammonia for a day or two, warming (not heating) it gently, and then yanking the filler out by the knob. Much less chance of damage.

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Actually, that is not a good way to remove the assemblies. You are better off soaking the pen in water and ammonia for a day or two, warming (not heating) it gently, and then yanking the filler out by the knob. Much less chance of damage.

 

Very interesting. I had always heard otherwise, having read/been told that pulling on the knob incurs a risk of potential damage to the barrel. Obviously I defer to your tremendous experience and expertise on these matters. Thank you for the clarification Rick.

PELIKAN - Too many birds in the flock to count. My pen chest has proven to be a most fertile breeding ground.

fpn_1508261203__fpn_logo_300x150.jpg

THE PELIKAN'S PERCH - A growing reference site for all things Pelikan

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Turns out, I didn't have to remove the piston at all...I was able to fit the end onto the piston shaft, push down..and operate the piston normally.

The challenge after that was to align the nib tines as it was skipping and had a few hard starts.

Are all Pelikans this finicky, or did I just happen to come across one requiring so much attention?

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Very interesting. I had always heard otherwise, having read/been told that pulling on the knob incurs a risk of potential damage to the barrel. Obviously I defer to your tremendous experience and expertise on these matters. Thank you for the clarification Rick.

I suppose the bottom line is that we all employ different methods and techniques and rather than removing the nib, not always easily and safely done on an old pen and then put impact on these parts, I prefer to soak, heat (gently) and draw the assembly.

 

Tho other concern on the modern pens is that the piston assembly is not friction fit, but snap fit and the impact is less good for those injection molded pieces.

 

YMMV

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I suppose the bottom line is that we all employ different methods and techniques and rather than removing the nib, not always easily and safely done on an old pen and then put impact on these parts, I prefer to soak, heat (gently) and draw the assembly.

 

Tho other concern on the modern pens is that the piston assembly is not friction fit, but snap fit and the impact is less good for those injection molded pieces.

 

YMMV

 

Your explanation makes good sense. Thank you for the added detail.

PELIKAN - Too many birds in the flock to count. My pen chest has proven to be a most fertile breeding ground.

fpn_1508261203__fpn_logo_300x150.jpg

THE PELIKAN'S PERCH - A growing reference site for all things Pelikan

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re "I can deal with how wet it is, but the false starts, skips and stops are a pain"

 

One possibility re your 'skipping' and ink flow problems. I picked up an 'old' neglected 120 some time ago with similar problems. I ended up dismantling the screw in nib section - after a long, long soak to soften hardened ink. Once the collar was off and the actual nib was out I then gave the fully exposed feed a quick brush with a toothbrush and put it back to soak awhile; and repeated the process. Iif the hard dried ink is really stubborn a very weak solution of ammonia/water 10% 'ish, or a propriety pen cleaning solution should shift it. It does take time but mine came 'back to life' after reassembly - still a 'wet' writer but with an unfailing and regular ink supply.

 

The nib section collar can sometimes be a problem - I had to glue one of mine (plastic) back together because it was in two bits when dismantled! But generally this is not a problem.

 

Good luck

John

 

Today is Yesterday's Tomorrow :-)

For All The Times That Might Have Been We Only Have The Now

www.africanconservation.org

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