Phenol Australia 80% W/w Biocide

[Intellidepth]

Need help with maths.

 

I've just ordered this phenol product (or attempted to - lets see if it gets delivered or if I need to be a podiatrist to obtain it). It says it is 80% w/w phenol liquified bp.

http://www.actimed.com.au/product.php?id=435

 

Based on posts 37 and 39 by SamCapote in this thread

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/171278-biocide-shootout-tests/page-2

if I am seeking the 0.4% "bioCIDAL" phenol solution level for infected SITB ink, does this mean I would need approx 0.5mL of the 80% phenol product per 100mL ink?

[musicman123]

If you add 0.5mL to 100mL of ink, you are adding 0.5mL of 80%. This does not get your 0.4% phenol. 0.4% phenol implies that you add (already diluted) 0.4% solution into a given amount of ink. Therefore, you should dilute the phenol in distiller water to a 0.4% concentration first, then add it to the ink.

 

To dilute it to 0.4% phenol, add 0.5mL into 125mL of ink.

 

0.5/125= 4.0 * 10^-3 or 0.4%

 

This is one method of calculating it. Note that this assumes the volume of the result will stay the same. A more accurate way is as follows.

 

0.004= x/(125+x)

0.004(125+x)=x

5 + 0.004x = x

5 = 0.996x

x = 5.02008mL

 

Thus, you need 5.02008mL of phenol in 125mL of distilled water in order to get a 0.4% solution of phenol. Then, add about 7 drops to 100mL of ink.

[Intellidepth]

Thanks. I've used misleading terminology, I think. I'm seeking an end product ink with 0.4% phenol within it as a proportion of the total ink volume. Not a 0.4% solution that is then added to ink.

 

SamCapote used a solution with 4.56% phenol content. The solution I'm starting with has 80% phenol content (at least, that's what I think w/w means). SamCapote reported that the total "cumulative phenol" (not phenol diluted in solution) required in ink was 0.4% to act as a biocidal to clear already contaminated ink.

 

So, trying to work out how much of the 80% solution, in mL, I'd need to add to 100mL ink to end up with a total straight phenol content in the end product of 0.4% (or close enough). I don't want to have to dilute the 80% solution. The reason SamCapote used 4.56% was it was the max available 'over the counter' at the time.

[kwzi]

Just remember about gloves, glasses are also advised as phenol tends to cause very bad chemical burns.

 

80% w/w means that in 100g of liquid there is 80g of phenol. Density of this solution is 1,05-1,07 g/ml ~1 g/ml.

to end up with 0,4g of phenol in 100 ml of ink you have to add 0,5g of 80% w/w to solution. So for 100 ml of ink take 0,5 ml of this solution.

[Intellidepth]

Thanks kwzi for the data. I'm actually very afraid of handling phenol, frankly. I was asked today via email if the freight cost was ok, replied yes, and they said they'd send it out tomorrow. We'll see.

 

What material should the gloves be made of please?

 

I own a chemical vapour mask already due to coffee roasting inhalation issues (another hobby) so that'll be worn too.

 

I don't have SITB in ink yet but my xanthan polysaccharide concentrate has zero protection and if I add it to inks with marginal or no biocidal components it could be inviting trouble. The first batch of concentrate grew a couple of mould varieties after 3 weeks (no particular care taken in prep, deliberately). My ink samples containing a small amount of that concentrate haven't grown anything as yet, but doesn't mean they won't.

[musicman123]

I got exactly what you mean now. In that case, yes, add 0.5mL of 80% phenol (.4mL of phenol and .1 of water) into 100mL of ink to get a correct 0.4% solution. Amber sent me some phenol, and when I handle it, I usually wear Latex-Free Nitrile Exam Gloves, and a pair of goggles to prevent splashes.

 

Here is a CDC link about phenol if you want more info.

 

http://www.cdc.gov/nchs/data/nhanes/nhanes_05_06/eph_d_met_phenols_parabens.pdf

[Cyber6]

Just remember about gloves, glasses are also advised as phenol tends to cause very bad chemical burns.

 

80% w/w means that in 100g of liquid there is 80g of phenol. Density of this solution is 1,05-1,07 g/ml ~1 g/ml.

to end up with 0,4g of phenol in 100 ml of ink you have to add 0,5g of 80% w/w to solution. So for 100 ml of ink take 0,5 ml of this solution.

 

+1..

 

The Phenol that Sam Capote recommends (which I have) at 0.4% and is used for artistic purposes (added to clay to keep it longer.. etc) and is bought through art stores.

 

This one at 80w/w if that means 80% needs to be handle with A LOT of care.

 

 

C.

[Intellidepth]

I got exactly what you mean now

This one at 80w/w if that means 80% needs to be handle with A LOT of care.

Thank you everyone for the advice/suggestions and links.

 

Unbelievable. I picked it up from the post office today. All that was required was a signature on delivery. It's labelled toxic and corrosive and the only instructions on it are entirely about emergency first aid if it comes into contact with bodily tissues.

[Agge]

Thanks kwzi for the data. I'm actually very afraid of handling phenol, frankly. I was asked today via email if the freight cost was ok, replied yes, and they said they'd send it out tomorrow. We'll see.

 

What material should the gloves be made of please?

 

I own a chemical vapour mask already due to coffee roasting inhalation issues (another hobby) so that'll be worn too.

 

I don't have SITB in ink yet but my xanthan polysaccharide concentrate has zero protection and if I add it to inks with marginal or no biocidal components it could be inviting trouble. The first batch of concentrate grew a couple of mould varieties after 3 weeks (no particular care taken in prep, deliberately). My ink samples containing a small amount of that concentrate haven't grown anything as yet, but doesn't mean they won't.

 

I had some problems with an ink that started to mold half a year ago.

I asked my father that is a chemist and work in a big laboratory if he had access to phenol he deemed it to dangerous to use he instead recommended a 10% solution of natriumazide that we added in the laboratory.

because of this I would personally not recommend using or even storing (iirc they keep their high concentration phenol frozen in his laboratory) if you do not have access to a laboratory.

[MCWB]

Both phenol and sodium azide are very nasty, but for different reasons. IMHO there's really no reason to avoid one to use the other, as long as you read the Safety Data Sheet (you have read it, right?), take the required precautions and have the required emergency treatment on hand.

 

Sure, you should be using gloves and eye protection, but this is not a complicated or lengthy procedure. Open bottle, use a pipette or syringe to suck up 0.5 mL, transfer to 100 mL of ink. Close bottle, rinse out pipette in water or metho. The bottle shouldn't need to be open for more than 5-10 seconds.

[Intellidepth]

Thanks Agge and MCWB.

 

The hubby's been well warned, it's utterly out of reach of kids, wrapped, in a box with big texta markings on it re being very corrosive/toxic; and yes I have disposable pipettes as well. I'll do it outside to ensure full ventilation right near an external water source.

 

I'm ever so slightly less petrified now that I've noticed the same sorts of level of markings on domestic cleaning products "hospital grade" available from my local supermarket. Nevertheless...