Need Info On Attaching Waterman 52V Clip

[rtrinkner]

Hello kind folks,

 

I acquired a Waterman 52V whose clip fell of the moment I touched it. Luckily, the clip looks to be in fine shape. The fault seemed to be with the dead rivets. I'd like to learn how to re-rivet the clip. I've read the section in Marshall & Oldfield's book about the job, but I'm a bit confused, especially regarding the final step of actually doing the riveting.

 

1. Do I need an expensive inner-cap puller, or can I make do with a single tap (a method I read about on this forum for Esties.) If I can use a cheap tap, which size would be right for the Waterman? If I need the expensive tool, I might go for it... which sort is better: the type that screws a little into the inner cap, or the type with the expanding collets? I know a lot of these puller are for later Parkers. I mostly work on pens from the 1920s-1940s and don't do a lot of work on 51s. I'd be most interested in a puller for these earlier pens.

 

Once the inner cap is out, the repair book suggests creating two metal pin-like pieces and a backing sheet of brass. I think I can manage this step.

 

2. Once the rivet pieces and brass backing plate are in place, and the clip is lowered on top of the two rivets (though its holes), how do you actually do the riveting? How do you make the little heads on the little rods? How are they affixed to the brass backing plate inside the pen so they don't fall out?

 

I guess what I'm asking is: how to you actually affix the clip once you have the two little metal pieces and the backing plate made? What specialized tools will I need? In addition to the more common pen repair tools, I do already have a Dremel and vice. I don't have a lathe or any sort of riveting tools, yet (but might spring for them if I can afford them).

 

Thanks,

 

Richard

[rtrinkner]

Anybody know? Or is this a dark secret?

[viclip]

I'm familiar with Marshall & Oldfield's section on replacing riveted Waterman clips (pp. 130-131 in the 3rd edition of their Pen Repair). I'm not quite sure what your second question is. The riveting is done the same as any other manual riveting job i.e. the heads of the rivets (inboard of the brass sheet withing the cap) must be supported on a properly fitting anvil all carefully aligned with the immobilized clip, then a small hammer is used to peen the protruding ends of the rivets, personally I'd use a concave punch rod to make contact with the tiny rivets while hammering the rod instead of the rivets directly. Anyways the idea is to peen the rivets against the clip thereby sandwiching the assembly ~ in effect you wind up with double-headed rivets i.e. the original heads inboard with the peened heads outboard.

 

It's sort of like a nut affixed to a bolt sandwiching an assembly together but without threads.

 

I suppose that instead of hammer peening the outboard portions of the rivets, you could apply force using an arbor press or some pneumatic or hydraulic device. But I suspect that this would be overkill which could literally kill your poor cap absent careful calibration.

 

I haven't checked Dr. Oldfield's site,perhaps he offers a ready made anvil device to insert within the cap to support the rivet heads during the peening process; alternatively he could probably make one for you via custom order.

 

Instead of using 2 individual rivets, you could fabricate a U-fastener. This is simply rivet-sized wire formed into a U shape sort of like a paper staple, the legs or prongs of which must similarly be peened to sandwich the assembly.

 

Either way, I'd parrot the recommendation of Messrs. M&O to practice riveting before tackling the actual clip/cap to be restored. Indeed as a starter you might consider picking up some 1/8" or larger rivets from the hardware store & practice riveting some sheets of scrap metal together with your friendly ball peen hammer (everyone seems to have a ball peen hammer but few have ever put the ball end to peen use as intended!). Then work your way down smaller once you get the hang of working with the larger sizes.

Edited March 3, 2015 by viclip

[Glenn Atkins]

I have not done this procedure but have read that most of the Waterman rivets are .032 inches. I have also read the recommendation to use sterling or 18k solid gold (not gold filled) wire to manufacture the rivet.

 

Fashioned in the appropriate U shape, the problem then becomes ensuring that the bottom of the U is sufficiently thin, and flat, to accommodate the inner cap. A mandrel of the appropriate size is then used to support the under side of the U within the cap when the rivets are staked. If you have a rotary tool with a hammer hand-piece this would probably be ideal, but viclip's suggestion of a concave punch rod also seems to be a good idea.

 

I wish you luck in this and I am interested in seeing and learning of the outcome.

 

Glenn

[FarmBoy]

This is not a beginner repair.

I'm not sure words can adequately explain the process.

 

Stuart H. among others make the anvils necessary to hold the backing rivet while peening it into shape.

[Nanor]

I work in aircraft maintenance where solid rivets are used extensively for structural repair. Riveting is not particularly difficult but it does take some practice to get consistent results.

 

If you google aircraft rivets you’ll find lots of info including youtube how-to clips. Your rivets will be significantly smaller but the same principles apply, except you may want to use a convex punch or snap to form a more aesthetically pleasing head. I wouldn't use a ball peen on a rivet this small.

 

Removing a poorly formed rivet from the cap without damaging the clip is potentially the most difficult part of this repair, so I’d also advise making up a test piece similar to your cap and clip to practice on and get the result you want first go.

 

I’ve never bashed a rivet this small and I also have a 52 v with no clip, so I’ll also be interested to hear how you get on. Best of luck with it.

[rtrinkner]

Thank you very much for the replies. They're very helpful. I'll keep the board updated on my progress. First, I need to buy a cap puller and then I'll practice riveting. I'm not a beginner (at least by my mere-mortal standards, having repaired about 300 pens), but this will be a new type of repair for me. I'm looking forward to giving it a try. I have a busy schedule for the next few weeks, but hope to give it a try later in March.

 

Richard

[OcalaFlGuy]

Richard,

 

Most all my inner cap pulling is on Esties and I use a tap for that.

 

However, last year, I sold my Woodbin inner cap puller to a newer restorer on Fleabay. He is a nice guy who does good work, at least the pens I have personally seen.

 

I doubt he would charge you much, if anything to pull your Waterman cap for you. Tell him I sent you.

 

I'll send you his contact info backchannel.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[rtrinkner]

Just an update for those who offered advice:

 

1. I succeeded in removing the inner cap, using the cap puller sold from Woodbin. That cap puller is not as elegant looking as the one sold by Laurence Oldfield (I really lusted for that one), but the Woodbin puller worked great and cost considerably less.

2. With the inner cap removed, I succeeded in removing the remnants of the broken rivets that were lodged the cap holes. I was able to clean up the cap around these holes where somebody previously had left a ridge of hardened glue. I was able to poke out the existing rivet stems by placing the end of a thin steel rod on the rivet remains and then gently tapping with a rubber-headed hammer. I removed the hardened glue by sanding gently with Micromesh pads. Currently, the cap looks brand new, with two empty holes waiting to receive the clip/rivets.

 

I've been too busy at work to fashion the new rivets. First, I'll need to fashion a little anvil to insert into the pen cap, as recommended in the Marshall/Oldfield book. I also need to make the little ruler-like steel tool with two properly distanced holes to flatten 20-gauge copper wire into the shape of a small staple with right angles. It'll probably take a few weeks before I find time to do that. I'll report back again as the repair progresses. I'll try to take some pictures of the process.

 

Richard

[FarmBoy]

Use Sterling Silver wire instead of copper wire.

[rtrinkner]

Thanks for the advice, FarmBoy.

 

What's the reason to use silver wire instead of copper? Stronger? Will it gold plate better than copper?

 

Can you recommend where to buy a small amount of silver wire?

 

Edit: I just checked Amazon, which has reasonable prices. Should I use "half-hard" or "dead soft" sterling wire?

 

Thanks,

 

Richard

Edited April 2, 2015 by rtrinkner

[FarmBoy]

Either but I currently have the half-hard only because I found it cheap at a jeweler the day I went hunting. Copper isn't as strong and from a metals end not as good as silver for plating. Added bonus, if you have a silver clip you are done when you use Sterling.

[rtrinkner]

Thanks for the explanation, FarmBoy. I'll pick up some half-hard sterling.

[Vintagepens]

Get the dead soft. It will make the riveting a lot easier. Better to use solid gold, though. If you don't do your own plating, you'll pay more for the plating than for the gold wire, and you'll end up having to replate eventually.