Vacumatic Pellet Cups From Papermate

[DavyJones]

Hey FPN team,

 

I recently bought an awesome 1942 Vacumatic in silver pearl (plastic plunger) to restore and upon disassembly noticed that sometime in the past someone decided to use a dental pick to remove the pellet and the pellet cup is all chewed up. I suspect it could still hold a pellet, but I want to replace it now while I have the pen open to dissuade future failure. I have searched high and low and it seems the generally accepted replacement at this point is the cone on the tip of a Papermate Write Brothers pen. I went out and bought a pack of 24 last night, and have been having a heck of a time knocking out the metal writing tip without cracking the plastic. Does anybody have any tips on how I can disassemble these pens without destroying them? I've tried gentle heat on the tip (which caused it to deform too much), using a knockout block, etc. Every single time the cone cracks. I realize each of these things costs a few cents, but I would like to find a more reliable way to get them apart. I wish I could find a use for the leftover caps and barrels.

 

Secondly, I noticed at one point Richard Binder responded to someone's post saying that he preferred this method over the new manufactured ones made from delrin because the material could be fused to the celluloid more reliably. What chemical do you think he is using to fuse these new pellet cups to the celluloid plunger? What effect would fusing the cup to the plunger have if this needs replaced again in the future?

 

I bet the Parker folks never imagined we would be having this conversation almost 73 years after the advent of their "disposable" vac filler unit.... maybe we could convince the modern Parker to start manufacturing the disposable filler units once again. It seems problems always abound when trying to refurbish something that was designed to be disposable.

[Oslowe]

Mr. Jones,

 

The Papermate comes apart about 13/16" up from the tip. Any good non-maring gripping aid will allow you to pull it from the barrel. Then pull the brass tip, then the white ink tube/reservoir. Then its time for paper towels, q-tips and alcohol.

 

I have made the one you see on the stand. I have some hesitation with regard to this fix. If you have the link to Mr. Binder's quote, that would be helpful. I'll try searching for it now.

 

All the best luck with your pen.

 

-Oslowe

[Oslowe]

I guess I neglected to say I use a pair of miniture needle-nose locking pliers or just regular needle-nose to gently rock the tip out.

 

-Oslowe

[Ron Z]

It does work. About the only thing that a BP is good for IMHO!

[Glenn Atkins]

Clever. Would someone mind posting a State-side link of the exact pen at say an office depot or something please?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Glenn

[DavyJones]

Here's Richard's post from a few years ago, see #7 and #11:

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/221630-vacumatic-pellet-socket-source/

[DavyJones]

Clever. Would someone mind posting a State-side link of the exact pen at say an office depot or something please?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Glenn

 

I picked up a package of 24 at the local Target for $3.99. They come in blue or black. They came in a cardboard backed plastic bubble package and were all the way on the bottom shelf.

[Glenn Atkins]

 

I picked up a package of 24 at the local Target for $3.99. They come in blue or black. They came in a cardboard backed plastic bubble package and were all the way on the bottom shelf.

 

These? Thanks.

 

http://www.target.com/p/papermate-write-bros-24ct-blue-ballpoint-stick-pen/-/A-14399892#prodSlot=medium_1_3&term=Papermate+Write+Brothers

[DavyJones]

 

These? Thanks.

 

http://www.target.com/p/papermate-write-bros-24ct-blue-ballpoint-stick-pen/-/A-14399892#prodSlot=medium_1_3&term=Papermate+Write+Brothers

 

Affirmative

[Oslowe]

Here are some things possibly worth considering as regards this process (FWIW.):

 

Sitting on my meager "back-of-the-envelope" efforts, are the remnants left behind from a blue BP used to make a Pellet Cup. There is also a semi-clear model of a BP after sectioning (with one half having it's edge blackened with a Sharpie.) I intentionally sectioned through a bubble inclusion to highlight one 'consideration.' QC, at this price point, I believe is intended to pass slight inclusions like this in order to attain necessary production speed as they will not impair the BP.

 

*NOTE: this "drawing" was produced in one evening with relatively crude instruments, and as such, should not be relied upon for ANY use. Of course, any and all copyrights, patents, and trademarks remain with the lawful holders of such.

 

 

 

 

This next photo shows another 'consideration' in that it is necessary to move further up the BP nozzle in order to find enough material if you wish to duplicate the original Parker Pellet Cup dimensions. I believe I have it slightly exaggerated here.

 

 

 

 

This next photo shows another 'consideration.' Unless you use the excessively thin portion of the BP in your reproduction, near the tip in your Pellet Cup (which I can't personally recommend,) one quickly leaves the 3/32" ID portion. As Shown below, the ID quickly increases (a necessary shape I believe to accommodate the "ejection" stage of "Injection Molding."

 

 

 

 

Another 'consideration' is that, as shown below, if one sculpts a duplicate to the true dimensions of the original Pellet Cup, the rapidly expanding ID leads to a means, of some sort, being provided to assure a plumb/square "fusing."

 

 

The blue Pellet Cup shown was produced w/o a lathe (lost in a house fire) or being 'chucked' in any way. Files and abrasives only. It takes an hour or two to produce one this way. While hoping to NEVER SEE another broken Pellet cup again, I would use this technique again -- It would be great to have some data on the "fusing" characteristics of the various materials involved. IMHO, assuring that the 'Cup' is fused plumb, straight, and square is needed to assure a long term repair.

 

Thanks for perusing the post. As always, if there is some major flaw in my experience as related, I apologize in advance. Looking forward to others experience in this realm.

 

This repair should of course be disclosed to any potential buyer of the pen if it is being taken to market or commercially restored. Hope this adds to the discussion,

 

-Oslowe

 

PS I see the humor in so laboring over a pump Parker is said to have thought of as 'disposable.' As many point out though, after everyones little tin box is empty of spare parts, we're on our own. Rooting for 3d printing evolution.

[Oslowe]

It strikes me that this may be what people are doing. That is a very quick solution that should work. We may start seeing these "in the wild" soon with the rash of "gooey" diaphragm stories being posted. Please disregard my previous post.

 

-Oslowe

 

[DavyJones]

I think this whole discussion brings up an interesting topic regarding the rebuilding of vacumatic fillers and what is or is not acceptable in this community. In all of my searches on this topic, I continually see people noting "you should certainly disclose this sort of repair if the pen were ever to trade hands." Let me pose this question, if you found one with a pellet cup that was all chewed up but still mostly functioned would you disclose that? I would honestly rather have that chewed up and risky pellet cup replaced with a structurally intact piece. Is it only necessary to disclose if you used a ballpoint tip to fashion a replacement pellet cup? What if you turned your own replacement out of any other material, or bought one of the other available replacements? If you buy a car with aftermarket brake pads would that change the value at all, or merit disclosure? Eventually we will run out of pristine and/or functional original Vacumatic filler units. I personally would prefer to have a filler unit that was 75% original with a structurally intact re-manufactured pellet cup over an entirely new pump, a la those brass ones that are sometimes available. I'm posing this more as a discussion prompt if anything, but seriously, I think it is a far greater crime to keep a structurally compromised pellet cup and not disclosing that for the sake of originality.

[DavyJones]

I appreciate the time you spent filing and sanding your replacement to the exact specs and shape of the original. I think taking that extra time is what makes this a viable option. Did you construct that stand specifically to assist in this sort of repair? I'd love to see the plans for that.

 

Also... there has to be someone on this forum with a 3D printer.....

Edited February 2, 2015 by DavyJones

[FarmBoy]

It is not difficult to tell if the pellet cup is replaced with one made from Delrin. If I replace the pellet cup during a restoration I state I did so just as I do if I replace an entire filler. A cup is <6.00, a replacement filler is ~30 I can usually offer either...you can guess which one is chosen most often.

 

FB

[bsenn]

I have printed pellet cups. The resolution on the printer I have access to is not very fine so the cup is not smooth. I worry about an edge wearing into the diaphragm. The few I have in test have had no problems but its only been two or three months. Next step is to try smoothing a printed cup with a quick acetone/mek bath or vapor bath to see if that takes care of the edges.

 

I've also been mulling over another solution. A guy I know uses what essentially is a small screw machine to turn out hubs, gears, and other small parts for HO slot cars (each run of a part is several hundred to no more than 1000). Those parts are very similar in size to a pellet cup.Should be able to tool up for pellet cups and maybe estie jewels, just not sure if the effort and cost to get it going would be worth it (for him it would be a business proposition, not a passion). This must have been contemplated before by others here?

 

Brian

[FarmBoy]

I have printed pellet cups. The resolution on the printer I have access to is not very fine so the cup is not smooth. I worry about an edge wearing into the diaphragm. The few I have in test have had no problems but its only been two or three months. Next step is to try smoothing a printed cup with a quick acetone/mek bath or vapor bath to see if that takes care of the edges.

 

I've also been mulling over another solution. A guy I know uses what essentially is a small screw machine to turn out hubs, gears, and other small parts for HO slot cars (each run of a part is several hundred to no more than 1000). Those parts are very similar in size to a pellet cup.Should be able to tool up for pellet cups and maybe estie jewels, just not sure if the effort and cost to get it going would be worth it (for him it would be a business proposition, not a passion). This must have been contemplated before by others here?

 

Brian

How many pellet cups do you want? I can help as much as needed...

[bsenn]

How many pellet cups do you want? I can help as much as needed...

 

Thanks. Sometimes its fun to try something yourself, or at least think about it, before choosing the easier path.

 

To address another part of the thread,no pen with a replacement cup, printed, delrin, bic, or otherwise, is leaving my hands without disclosure.

 

Brian

[Glenn Atkins]

Count me in.

 

Glenn

[FarmBoy]

I've gone back into the archives and reread some of the posts regarding replacement pellet cups. I've also gone back and reread my correspondence with Steve B. who was one of the first people I know of making replacement cups from a ball point pen socket. I've also talked to several people that rebuild vac filled pens on a regular basis.

 

I've been using Delrin (and one time hard rubber) replacement pellet cups for at least 9 years. I have had pens sent to me for repair that have replacement pellet cups in them. For the record, if I see bic pen parts in a 51 I do replace them. I do not understand why someone would not use a replacement cup made from Delrin from any of the sources for such parts and instead use a cup made from the end of a ball point pen. Just digging out the paste (ink) takes more time than it would to just pop one out on a lathe. I'm not sure why anyone with a lathe would choose ink removal over making a cup from any available material at hand.

 

Why did I chose Delrin? As indicated, I made the first batch from hard rubber on a whim. Note that I have seen many Parker original fillers that hard rubber cups. If you have ever machines hard rubber you will understand why I opted for another material. Delrin. I have piles of Delrin rod and on the day I needed a pellet cup I just happened to grab a 0.250" rod of the stuff and made a cup. At one point I made a few from Nylon and some from polystyrene--neither was as nice but they both worked. Teflon would be a failure. I don't own a bic stix ball point pen but I'd guess it is polystyrene or a polyolefin of unknown purity and of low quality. Delrin is just soft enough to easily cold form the cup edge and forgiving enough that it will not shatter if you abuse it a little. Delrin also looks right if you use black or natural. Use the white stuff and it just looks wrong.

 

I've not had any trouble bonding the Delrin cups the celluloid shaft which seems to be a concern.

 

I'm also not concerned about a repair utilizing a replacement cup diminishing the value of a pen. I think a replacement cup or a replacement spring (remanufactured springs are also available) ranks up there with a replacement diaphragm.

 

Some or even most restorers may disagree with me.

 

Farm 'pellet cup' boy

[Ron Z]

I'm also not concerned about a repair utilizing a replacement cup diminishing the value of a pen. I think a replacement cup or a replacement spring (remanufactured springs are also available) ranks up there with a replacement diaphragm.

 

 

Some or even most restorers may disagree with me.

 

I don't. A pellet cup is an incidental item that is needed to make the pen function, and has no intrinsic value. It's like changing a damaged bolt or screw on a vintage car. Reproduction jewel, reproduction clip, refrosting, replating, yes you need to disclose. Changing out an original part for an original part, no.