Options For Smart Bespoke Leather?

[Wendell]

If you want some custom designed leather accessory, the most popular source seems to be Renaissance Art. They make great stuff and the prices are reasonable, but I find their style is not always what I want. It's a bit rustic, fine to go with Levi's but not with Brooks Brothers. Where can one go for bespoke leather with more polish?

 

Just looking around American shops, Gfeller will modify existing designs, but their goods are still very rustic. Custom Hide has a bit more polish and will take on custom designs, but they just do bags, it seems. There are many leather crafters who advertise on Etsy, but their work is usually very crude.

 

Going considerably up the price scale, there are Lotuff and J. W. Hulme, but it seems they don't do bespoke jobs.

 

I've heard that if you are prepared to go into the thousands of dollars, some European shops like Hermes are an option, but I'm not prepared to go that high. There seems to be a large price/quality gap that is not serviced.

 

Any thoughts?

[Doug C]

I have bags from Renaissance Arts, Col Littleton and KillSpencer. Art from RA has made me bags in black leather since I have the same taste for most of my leather (less rustic). The Kill Spencer might be one to look at even though it is off the rack. Really sharp with great latches.

[LindaM]

Look around for leather crafters in your area. Summer festivals, farmers markets, that sort of thing usually have independent artisans that you can talk to and that would be happy to get such work.

[Wendell]

A couple more to add.

Sterling & Burke products look very nice, but their price point is rather higher than I had in mind, and their "bespoke" seems to just mean made to order, not following custom design.

In England, Foster & Son seems to be about the level of quality what I had in mind. They don't seem to accept custom orders outside of their shoe line.

[my63]

Do you mind if I ask what you are looking for I have come across a few craftsmen whilst learning about leatherwork and might be able to point you in the right direction.

[______Zaphod_Beeblebrox]

I know what you mean Fortunately I was able to by 2 Delta Markiaro Leather pen cases. Super nice leather work. They may still be available in some shops old stock.

[______Zaphod_Beeblebrox]

[Wendell]

...what you are looking for...

Mostly stationery items like portfolios, writing pads, cases, etc. Often what I want is an existing design but in an unusual size, with the finer material and stitching you see on higher-end products. I'm not after the level of delicacy you see at fashion houses like Prada or Hermes, more like what they have at Sterling & Burke or Foster & Son.

I live in an area with many artisan leather crafters and have seen a lot of representative work on Etsy. The problem is not their willingness to take on a project, but in their ability to handle fine detail.

[my63]

I think I understand what you are looking for, it is what I am aiming for at some point in the future until I can get there here are a couple of people who can make what you are looking for.

 

Nigel Armitage http://www.armitageleather.com

 

Sterling and Burke I think are resellers they stock Swaine Aideny Brigg cases and accessories (expensive) this couple worked for them and now work for themselves (much cheaper)

 

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/TheLeatherFoundry/about?ref=shopinfo_about_leftnav

 

I hope this helps

[Wendell]

I think I understand what you are looking for...

Thanks, those are good leads.

 

Half of what I see at Swaine Adeny Brigg is just right; the rest is too tweedy for me.

 

Researching a bit on Ray Clark, yes it looks like he would fit, but the word is that he is quitting the business. From exploring on styleforum, it appears that Simon Baker is in the same class, but I get the impression that his prices are up there with SAB. I'm afraid to even ask.

 

I found these pictures showing the huge difference in detailing between an SAB and a Filson.

http://tinyurl.com/ks2ywsn

 

I'm particularly focusing on the differences in edge detailing and the lining. The work shown on Nigel Armitage's site is all like the Filson, but I'm looking for a style like the SAB. His style seems more like sporting goods than business fashion. Is it worth asking? In general, do you think am I expecting too much for a price significantly lower than SAB?

[Polyhistor]

To be honest, it seems you want premium quality but you aren't quite ready yet to lay down premium bucks.

 

There is an awful lot of worktime going into nice edges and truly refined overall looks, but, sadly, there's hardly anyone wanting to pay for that time. Business fashion also tends to demand finer, thinner leathers and working with those is somewhat more complicated than hacking away at some scraps of veg tan. The need for fine materials and good craftsmanship, in combination with a small group of potential customers doesn't seem to make that route too profitable. IMO, that's why there are comparatively little offerings between 'Etsy crude' (where often quality and price are an insult to customers), and 'Hermès perfect' (sublime quality at sky-high prices).

 

I would rather save up for the kind of quality that you would really love to own, and then get something that'll last you a lifetime.

 

Best,

Adam

[dneal]

Van der Spek is a Dutch company that has really nice leather products at reasonable prices. They do some bespoke work.

[Wendell]

...it seems you want premium quality but you aren't quite ready yet to lay down premium bucks.

One thing I am trying to establish is which features are a matter of quality/cost to make and which are just a difference in style. Some of the more expensive products look crude to me. It's not clear what one can reasonably expect in a given price range.

[orfew]

Here is mine. It is not bespoke, but it is handmade. I believe that place I bought it does do bespoke work. You could always send an email and find out. Their work imho is very good.

 

The finishing a quite good and the leather quality is superb. I bought it at Misuri in Florence when I was on vacation and I have not regretted the purchase. For reference sake the price was about 500 Euro.

 

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh320/Orfew/2015-01-25054016_zpsaf539371.jpg

 

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh320/Orfew/2015-01-25054324_zpsfefff4f7.jpg

 

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh320/Orfew/2015-01-25054159_zpsa0e40e39.jpg

[my63]

If you compare the two cases in the link you provided SAB used two different thicknesses of leather in their case the bottom and sides made in one piece of thinner bridle in the same colour.

The other case used the same leather for the whole case and that was why it was bunched and stiff and it had been cut and sewn because it was too thick to wrap around.

A machinist could take an afternoon to sew a case together where it would take days to hand sew the same case.

The difference between brass and brass plated fittings will also make a huge difference to the look and feel.

It is of course subjective what appeals to me may not appeal to you

I hope that we can help you to find what you are looking for

Michael

 

Edit for spelling

Edited January 26, 2015 by my63

[captain1796]

Saddle back leather makes really nice stuff out of saddle leather.

[dematante]

Okay, I took a photo of the bag and my Bindewerk journal that fits very nicely in the pocket you see on the front of this J.W. HULME CORRESDPONDENT BAG. North of 600 but worth it. Leather with brass fittings. But because I haven't posted for a while I can't find that so helpful attachement icon that once existed. So, here's the link.

 

http://www.jwhulmeco.com/Correspondent-Bag-p/66055.htm

 

My apologies for not being able to attach a photo. It's a great bag that accommodates my Bindewerk A5 journal, 300 pages, in the front pocket. And inside, in separate pockets, I can store eyeglasses, a hairbrush (for some reason) an iPad Air and something called A BOOK, big book too. VAN GOGH: A LIFE, 600 pages. Plays hell with my hernia, but what the heck. I've carried shoulder bags all my working life. Cloth, cloth and leather, etc. This is the best. I'm old and I deserve this bag. No arguments. Unless you're older.

Edited January 26, 2015 by dematante

[Wendell]

And inside...I can store... something called A BOOK

I've heard of those. The concept is nice, since the display is powered by solar or other ambient light. But you can't play Angry Birds on one. I don't think they will ever catch on.

 

I like some of the J.W. Hulme stuff and the prices seem reasonable, but they don't seem to take custom orders.

[my63]

There is another option many of these expensive brands have been around for a long time I wanted a good case but was not willing to pay the price asked. One of the companies mentioned has taken over smaller companies in the past and the trade name was Pendragon so I searched for that name and found cases at reasonable prices some requiring repair.

The name was dropped in the 1970 s so they are old but come with patina already.

As you can see from the posts different bags appeal to different people.

[Wendell]

One aspect of this thread that I'm finding interesting is that there is some assumption that since I'm asking about custom work, I'm looking for higher quality. I don't actually think I am. I'm just having trouble finding a particular style of design.

 

I have a Coach wallet that cost about a hundred bucks. It is slim, cleanly designed, and shows no flaws in its construction. Most importantly, it looks like it was designed to go with a business suit. I would be perfectly happy to buy more items of similar quality, it's just that for some items I can't find something configured exactly to my needs.

 

When I look at all the collections of handcrafted leather, it seems that just about everything below the price point of nicer Swaine Adeney Brigg is styled for the tack room rather than the boardroom. Zaphod_Beeblebrox posted above a nice shot of Delta cases. They have thin leather, fine stitching, and a more polished finish. Why am I not finding that kind of styling in the sub $1000 range of custom work? Even sub $200 department store stuff can look that nice.