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Loose "collar" On Jinhao 159


NewPenMan

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I'm not ashamed to say, in public, that I love this pen. In the photo, I try to identify the parts correctly. Basically the black plastic collar has come loose from the internal guts and forward portion of the ink feed/nib stuff (the business end, as my mother would say).

 

Pen appears to be ok, but I can see, or fear it coming loose. Solution? Epoxy? some other adhesive?

 

Thank you in advance.

 

 

http://coffeeonmars.com/screenshots/jinhao-loose-part.jpg

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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I would try some epoxy resin that is safe for plastics (most are). As long as the pen still writes, it should be fine. As a caution, keep the epoxy away from the nib and feed. If possible, remove the nib and feed before working on the pen. They can be removed by gripping both the nib and feed below (towards the body) the breather hole, and pulling outwards. Do not lose the nib. I did that once.

 

If all else fails, may want to just get a second one, as they run pretty cheap. You could always use this one for pen modification practice like nib grinding and tine adjustment.

fpn_1434432647__fpn_1425200643__fpn_1425160066__super_pinks-bottle_200x159.jpg

 


Check out my blog at Inks and Pens

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Thank you.. good ideas.

 

For the epoxies that aren't plastic - safe, what's the tip-off?

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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Well, I'm not too sure about that. However, 95% of epoxies you find at hardware stores, such as Home Depot and Lowes should be safe for plastics, as they are pretty much just liquid plastic themselves.

 

I'm actually not a hardware man myself but I do have a tube of epoxy that I used to make an eyedropper pen, so take it for what its worth.

Edited by musicman123

fpn_1434432647__fpn_1425200643__fpn_1425160066__super_pinks-bottle_200x159.jpg

 


Check out my blog at Inks and Pens

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Well, thinking back to my model airplane - building days, I remember that that glue worked in part by melting the plastic and that if you used too much, the glued parts would buckle under their own weight before the glue even set.

 

I don't know how different epoxy is from that principle. .. maybe all those glues belong to the same general family? ...in that they are either themselves plastic, or they unlock plastic in a sense, then cure with the plastic as both harden. .. just speculating here. ..

 

Probably some earnest Googling will reveal plastic - safe brands.

Edited by NewPenMan

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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I think epoxy is quite different. Epoxy resin has basically acrylic (I think) resin in a liquid form in one compartment, and hardener in a separate compartment. Once the 2 are mixed, the hardener chemically reacts with the resin, to form a solid acrylic resin, effectively bonding surfaces together. They generally take some time to set, and the resin to harden, which during this time, you should not disturb the surfaces being bonded.

 

This is the one I use. The description says that it bonds metal and rigid plastics so it will work for your pen perfectly. I got this at my local Lowes for the same price.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1365868-Minute-Instant-Adhesive/dp/B0044F9KFI/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1421565525&sr=8-29&keywords=epoxy+resin

fpn_1434432647__fpn_1425200643__fpn_1425160066__super_pinks-bottle_200x159.jpg

 


Check out my blog at Inks and Pens

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Yeah we might even have some of that here.. Thank you for the information and for sharing what you know about this, musicman123.

Edited by NewPenMan

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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Great! It should work fine. Just remember to not over-apply it. A small amount goes a long way. Don't want hardened epoxy everywhere. If you do notice an excess amount, just wipe it off when a damp paper towel, when the epoxy is still wet. If it hardened, you may be out of luck.

fpn_1434432647__fpn_1425200643__fpn_1425160066__super_pinks-bottle_200x159.jpg

 


Check out my blog at Inks and Pens

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Yeah that's good advice. .. and I won't need to squeeze out much tho begin With

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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Exactly. No need to waste it. I learned that lesson the hard way, when I was modifying a rollerball into a FP ink eyedropper.

fpn_1434432647__fpn_1425200643__fpn_1425160066__super_pinks-bottle_200x159.jpg

 


Check out my blog at Inks and Pens

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Did that actually turn out?

Any pics to share?

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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Did that actually turn out?

Any pics to share?

 

Sorry for the late response. I actually do have pics and I'm going to make a post on FPN about it. I will link you once I finish.

fpn_1434432647__fpn_1425200643__fpn_1425160066__super_pinks-bottle_200x159.jpg

 


Check out my blog at Inks and Pens

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I haven't dealt with this yet..

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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I haven't dealt with this yet..

Don't rush things. Take you time. Let the chi flow through you before you attempt something drastic. Consult the oracle for advice.

 

BTW, here it is!

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/283147-eyedropper-rollerball-experiement/

fpn_1434432647__fpn_1425200643__fpn_1425160066__super_pinks-bottle_200x159.jpg

 


Check out my blog at Inks and Pens

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