... Homemade Leather Journal Sleeve ...

[pen2paper]

with a cord and vintage button? (wrap, and tuck the button in the cord to hold)

great seeing two favorite threads merged!

 

embarrassed to toss another two cents in, but ; ) the cord with button, or other object tucked has been used on kimono fabric pen rolls, and can be seen in earlier threads on FPN.

when I looked elsewhere for a button tucked in cord example, found an alternative using kimono silk, (which TMLee has used on his covers) sharing here as it's an effort to create a very finished closure, perhaps adaptable for others.

[my63]

I don't think you should be embarrassed the more ideas that are expressed the better the items will be so keep adding ideas whenever you like.

Kimono silk is not so easy to find in the UK I have a small Gladstone bag that needs a lining and I want something unusual.

[GatzBcn]

I love the result!! It looks amazing!!! It really does.

 

Things:

 

Regarding the stich, if you only pull one side and then the other, you are "pushing" the leather. If you pull both at the same time you tighten the thread yet you don't "push" the leather because you put equal force on both sides. These are my thoughts, don't even know if that is how it is.

 

Regarding the leather, I see your problem, yet I am not sure how to proceed. You could try leaving a bit more space, or maybe just getting a different type of leather, one with less tiny hair that causes friction.

 

Great job, keep it up!!

[Miz Black Crow]

Wow. Yet another beautiful thing from TMLee You're making the rest of us look bad, you know. I love threads like this and your journal thread. It's a peek into the workshop of a craftsman, doing things I admire but know nothing about.

 

I think the three-stitch-finger-grab is a brilliant modification, by the way. It keeps the shape of the overall journal sleeve but adds a lot of functionality for very little work. When I saw it my fingers instinctively went to grab it.

 

Beautiful handiwork, as ever. I will be lurking to observe the developments.

[TMLee]

I was wondering if you had considered other options I was thinking of something like a wrap around cover

 

Thanks

Yes I have thought about that , but I am thinking along the lines of something as simple and fuss free as possible , yet can do the job.

 

Can be flattened, stashed away in a pocket ,etc , occupying very little space...

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/LEATHER%20JOURNAL%20SLEEVE%20A6/027-1.jpg

 

 

 

 

Same design concept of my single pen sleeve I stitched sometime ago.

 

Its like the American vs Russian solution to a writing instrument that could work in a gravity free environment. ..

Edited January 6, 2015 by TMLee

[TMLee]

I don't think you should be embarrassed the more ideas that are expressed the better the items will be so keep adding ideas whenever you like.

Kimono silk is not so easy to find in the UK I have a small Gladstone bag that needs a lining and I want something unusual.

 

 

Yes , more ideas is good .

oftentimes , it leads to other ideas ...

[TMLee]

I love the result!! It looks amazing!!! It really does.

 

Things:

 

Regarding the stich, if you only pull one side and then the other, you are "pushing" the leather. If you pull both at the same time you tighten the thread yet you don't "push" the leather because you put equal force on both sides. These are my thoughts, don't even know if that is how it is.

 

Regarding the leather, I see your problem, yet I am not sure how to proceed. You could try leaving a bit more space, or maybe just getting a different type of leather, one with less tiny hair that causes friction.

 

Great job, keep it up!!

 

 

Ah , I see,

that makes sense. ...

 

Thanks ...

[TMLee]

Wow. Yet another beautiful thing from TMLee You're making the rest of us look bad, you know. I love threads like this and your journal thread. It's a peek into the workshop of a craftsman, doing things I admire but know nothing about.

 

I think the three-stitch-finger-grab is a brilliant modification, by the way. It keeps the shape of the overall journal sleeve but adds a lot of functionality for very little work. When I saw it my fingers instinctively went to grab it.

 

Beautiful handiwork, as ever. I will be lurking to observe the developments.

 

 

 

Thank you for your kind words ..

 

Now I know at least there's another someone who likes it

 

I am still trying to figure out how to have the corners of the journal sit snugly into the corners of the sleeve.

At the moment , it does'nt fit snugly due to the 'pinch-grip' .

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/LEATHER%20JOURNAL%20SLEEVE%20A6/029-1.jpg

 

 

[pen2paper]

Tossing a few quick thoughts out, Only because you suggested: simple, flattened, stuffed away in a pocket..

light ripstop fabric, which could easily fit in the journal pocket, and would protect the journal from basic dirt, marks, and slightly from mars and wrinkles by keeping the journal contents compactly together.

ripstop is sort of the light weight fabric version tomoe river or bagasse paper.. mentioning bagasse as its not "pretty", but it is ink friendly, and while very thin, it gets the intended job done.

a leather case could be your journals alternate "showy" encasement worthy of your craftsmanship

 

just sort of thinking about my's cases and the video.. could leather have a thinned (scored/thinned/scribed?) lines that would cause those lines to fold (into a box shape) without stitching? or just two stitches to stabilize corners and then a magnetic closure? Thinking of material manipulation in origami, and fabric, which alters the materials natural direction.

[byggyns]

_{The reason the stitching does not stay straight when you tighten one side, then the other is because the leather is thin and soft. A thicker or stiffer leather will have fewer issues. Also, is your thread waxed? Wax will reduce friction to prevent the leather from bunching up. You still do get the best results & straightest stitches tightening both sides together even with the thick, stiff leather I use when I make knife sheaths & holsters.}

[TMLee]

Tossing a few quick thoughts out, Only because you suggested: simple, flattened, stuffed away in a pocket..

light ripstop fabric, which could easily fit in the journal pocket, and would protect the journal from basic dirt, marks, and slightly from mars and wrinkles by keeping the journal contents compactly together.

ripstop is sort of the light weight fabric version tomoe river or bagasse paper.. mentioning bagasse as its not "pretty", but it is ink friendly, and while very thin, it gets the intended job done.

a leather case could be your journals alternate "showy" encasement worthy of your craftsmanship

 

just sort of thinking about my's cases and the video.. could leather have a thinned (scored/thinned/scribed?) lines that would cause those lines to fold (into a box shape) without stitching? or just two stitches to stabilize corners and then a magnetic closure? Thinking of material manipulation in origami, and fabric, which alters the materials natural direction.

 

 

 

Thanks ...

 

ripstop ...

 

interesting idea ..

[TMLee]

_{The reason the stitching does not stay straight when you tighten one side, then the other is because the leather is thin and soft. A thicker or stiffer leather will have fewer issues. Also, is your thread waxed? Wax will reduce friction to prevent the leather from bunching up. You still do get the best results & straightest stitches tightening both sides together even with the thick, stiff leather I use when I make knife sheaths & holsters.}

 

 

 

Thanks for the explanation ....

 

Yes, I am quite certain thick (stiff) leathers will keep their shape pretty well, and too rigid for the threads to deform them.

 

another question...

how does one smoothen the wrong side of leather?

 

( sometimes I come across leathers where the 'wrong' side seems to be coated or glued , and you get a relatively smooth-to-the-touch end result . )

[byggyns]

There are various ways the the "wrong" side is smoothed. That side is called the flesh side by leather workers. The top side is called the grain side of the leather.

 

To smooth the flesh side, some hides are split, meaning a blade is used to shave off the leather to thin it. That is also the source for suede, which is a split leather product. Other hides are sanded. "top grain" leather is a hide that has been split with the grain layer & only part of the flesh layer remaining. "full grain" leather is not split and can have light sanding done to even and smooth the flesh side. It depends a lot on how the hide is tanned as to what processes can be used (chrome tanned vs veg tanned). A factor in the smoothness is when the split is done. If there are multiple processes after splitting the leather, the fibers on the flesh side can be roughed up.

Additionally, the flesh side can be smoothed down using chemicals & mechanical means. When I am building a holster out of veg tanned leather & want to smooth the flesh side, I will use water, saddle soap & will burnish the flesh side. To burnish, I use a hard, smooth surface to rub the flesh side (thick glass with a rounded edge is a very common burnishing tool). The rubbing compresses & lays down the fibers while knocking off some of the longer ones. The water & saddle soap help to stick the fibers down and keep them from lifting back up.

[TMLee]

There are various ways the the "wrong" side is smoothed. That side is called the flesh side by leather workers. The top side is called the grain side of the leather.

 

To smooth the flesh side, some hides are split, meaning a blade is used to shave off the leather to thin it. That is also the source for suede, which is a split leather product. Other hides are sanded. "top grain" leather is a hide that has been split with the grain layer & only part of the flesh layer remaining. "full grain" leather is not split and can have light sanding done to even and smooth the flesh side. It depends a lot on how the hide is tanned as to what processes can be used (chrome tanned vs veg tanned). A factor in the smoothness is when the split is done. If there are multiple processes after splitting the leather, the fibers on the flesh side can be roughed up.

Additionally, the flesh side can be smoothed down using chemicals & mechanical means. When I am building a holster out of veg tanned leather & want to smooth the flesh side, I will use water, saddle soap & will burnish the flesh side. To burnish, I use a hard, smooth surface to rub the flesh side (thick glass with a rounded edge is a very common burnishing tool). The rubbing compresses & lays down the fibers while knocking off some of the longer ones. The water & saddle soap help to stick the fibers down and keep them from lifting back up.

Hmmm ...

Interesting :-)

Will search YouTube if there is anything that illustrates what you described.

 

Thanks much for your reply.

 

:-)

[byggyns]

This is a video that explains smoothing edges and goes into explaining burnishing the back of the leather as well.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3YW5x84rWhQ

 

If the link doesn't work, search for "springfield leather edge finishing" and you should pull it up.

[oculogyric]

Thanks for posting this. I would love to try making refillable leather journal covers but I'm not sure I need another hobby right now;-). Did you buy your equipment piece by piece or as a starter kit?

[TMLee]

This is a video that explains smoothing edges and goes into explaining burnishing the back of the leather as well.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3YW5x84rWhQ

 

If the link doesn't work, search for "springfield leather edge finishing" and you should pull it up.

 

 

Thanks , that is helpful.

 

But I wonder how to edge-finish on finished leather?

Its not rigid enough to withstand the burnishing.

I wonder what others do?

 

[TMLee]

Thanks for posting this. I would love to try making refillable leather journal covers but I'm not sure I need another hobby right now;-). Did you buy your equipment piece by piece or as a starter kit?

 

after looking at some leathercrafting websites,

i drew up a list of tools I felt I can't do without.

 

then Bought them off eBay or online stores.

 

[byggyns]

Re buying tools, I started by taking a class at my local leather store. I figured out the basic few things I needed, then have added pieces here and there. I've already spent way too much on tools and need to do more projects before I can justify buying more.

 

 

A few basics just for fabrication would be:

 

diamond stitching awl

marking tool for stitching: either an overstitch wheel or a pricking iron

a sharp set of dividers or a stitching groover- to mark stitch lines

harness needles

a sharp utility knife

if you are working with veg tan leather, you will also want an edger tool and an edge burnisher

 

consumables would include:

waxed thread

leather

any dyes or finishes needed for the leather you are working with

sand paper- multiple medium to extra fine grits: 140 and up

 

 

 

 

Thanks , that is helpful.

 

But I wonder how to edge-finish on finished leather?

Its not rigid enough to withstand the burnishing.

I wonder what others do?

 

 

 

I haven't done it myself, but the way it has been explained to me is that you start by making sure the egdes are glued prior to stitching. This gives you a better look, like a single piece of leather & uses the stiffness of the 2 layers together. Then, sand the edges in one direction (not back & forth) in progressively finer grits. Finished leather can sometimes take a little burnishing. If it does, or not, the final step is to apply edge coat. There are lots out on the market. Some made by Fiebings, some from Fenice in Italy (sold here in the US as "Tandy Eco Flo"), the Hermes bag company uses a fairly expensive one from Beraud in France. That one is supposed to be hard to get outside of France. And, of course there are others. Some leather paints like Angelus acrylic leather paints are used as final edge finishes. The best thing to do is to experiment with what is available to you in your market.

 

 

I really haven't done an extensive amount of leatherwork, but whenever I get into a hobby, I tend to over research it. So, I've read how to do more things in leatherwork than I will probably be able to attempt in the next 5 years.

 

 

Also, I came across this thread that discusses another way to do edges: using a heated iron

 

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=38750&st=0