Can You Wax/protect Platinated Surfaces?

[KBeezie]

For the first time in about 8 months I've de-inked my Montblanc to give it a clean clean up (now that I have an ultrasonic cleaner), and to grease up the piston a little bit (was a little tight), it was also the first time I went ahead and disassembled the rear portion of that specific pen. Simply put, since I got it, it has stayed inked with Noodler's Black Eel with a couple flushes (and immediate re-inking) until now. (still deciding if I want to keep black eel dedicated to it, or be a little adventurous).

 

Since I have some additional polish stuff and sacs coming from FountainPenSacs, I was wondering if I can use something like the brazilian carnauba wax to apply a coat of protectant onto the cap itself rather than just the barrel portion of the pen?

 

Also since I just got it cleaned up and de-inked figured it would be a good opportunity to get a fresh full-body picture of the pen, since in the past I've only had pictures concentrated around the nib/cap.

 

http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/montblanc225/uncapped.jpg

 

The pic I shot from about 8 months ago, which was probably the best view of it that I had until now.

 

http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/montblanc225/1.jpg

[blINK]

I'm sorry I don't have an answer to your question but I have seen the pics around the forum and I have to say that is one fine looking pen.

[KBeezie]

I'm sorry I don't have an answer to your question but I have seen the pics around the forum and I have to say that is one fine looking pen.

It's one of my favorite (least in the top 3 of what I've used). I would like to carry it just about everywhere but I get the impression it's more fragile than my Pilot Murex. But it's been a very reliable pen, writes slightly under a Japanese Extra-Fine, which is also about the same as what my Murex does despite being labeled a "Fine", both pens were acquired from Japan, so maybe something with their market in the 70s.

 

Other than giving it a light polish and protecting the body and maybe the cap with some of the wax I'm getting I'm just debating on if I want to put black eel back into it. I probably will since I know exactly how it behaves with it, and it's pretty much the utilitarian choice I like.

[Algester]

Honestly I do not know how to treat platinum plated surfaces i would assume that there is really no need to coat it unless your very OCD about scratches, similar to lamy 2000's nib which is palladium coated palladium is also part of the platinum family of metals if my chemistry lessons are right you may seem some resemblance to this information about your 225 and perhaps you know why as for the barrel all I know its made of makrolon so I dont think that needs any treatment as for the cap well maybe a polishing compound for platinum is needed you cant use any ordinary metal polishing compound thats what I know

Also platinum itself is like aluminium where in aluminium you have aluminium oxide protecting the metal in platinum you have platinum oxide protecting the metal or so I think if I got my stuff right

Edited December 19, 2014 by Algester

[JonV6]

I tend to agree that when it comes to platinum there isn't much reason to coat it. A wax coat will likely dull the finish slightly with it only returning to a proper shine once the wax has been almost completely removed.

[fpnnm]

[Algester]

dang it the more I see it is my eyes alluding me or is the nib looking like silver on the photos? I know the nibs on the 22X models are supposed to be gold plated and I'm digging the design very bauhaus

[KBeezie]

dang it the more I see it is my eyes alluding me or is the nib looking like silver on the photos? I know the nibs on the 22X models are supposed to be gold plated and I'm digging the design very bauhaus

The 225, like the cap, also has a Platinum coated nib. It's one of the things that set is apart from the other 22x.

[graystranger]

Honestly I do not know how to treat platinum plated surfaces i would assume that there is really no need to coat it unless your very OCD about scratches, similar to lamy 2000's nib which is palladium coated palladium is also part of the platinum family of metals if my chemistry lessons are right you may seem some resemblance to this information about your 225 and perhaps you know why as for the barrel all I know its made of makrolon so I dont think that needs any treatment as for the cap well maybe a polishing compound for platinum is needed you cant use any ordinary metal polishing compound thats what I know

Also platinum itself is like aluminium where in aluminium you have aluminium oxide protecting the metal in platinum you have platinum oxide protecting the metal or so I think if I got my stuff right

 

Platinum is a noble metal like gold, iridium, paladium, rhodium, etc. Noble metals do not oxidize or tarnish, they are inert to all but the strongest chemicals (chlorine agents, cyanide salts). They do not have and do not need an oxide passive layer like aluminum or stainless steel (which forms a chrome oxide passive layer on the surface).

 

One thing you might want to do for a platinum plated cap is to wipe it with a jeweler's cloth to lightly polish it. I would be very hesitant about using any metal polishing cream on plated surfaces. While platinum is harder than gold, it is not as hard as chrome plate. My jeweler's cloth has one side to lightly polish, and the reverse side to buff and leave a protective surface. This is claimed, but I can see no evidence of a protective surface. The carnuba wax will certainly add polish and protection to the cap and will not hurt it at all. carnuba wax is the hardest natural wax and buffs to a wonderful shine. It will certainly add better protection than the jeweler's cloth.

 

The aroma of natural carnuba wax is heavenly.

[KBeezie]

Jeweler's Cloth the same thing as the Rouge Cloth I have with Red and Yellow sewn together? (though I also have Carnauba wax too).

Edited December 20, 2014 by KBeezie

[kirchh]

Carnauba wax can release acids over time and it is difficult to remove. I don't recommend it.

 

--Daniel

[KBeezie]

Carnauba wax can release acids over time and it is difficult to remove. I don't recommend it.

 

--Daniel

And what bout the rouge cloths?

 

And if Carnauba wax releases acids overtime and not recommended, any reason why FountainPenSacs.com would recommend it as a final coat?

[kirchh]

And what bout the rouge cloths?

 

And if Carnauba wax releases acids overtime and not recommended, any reason why FountainPenSacs.com would recommend it as a final coat?

Rouge cloths are intended for solid precious-metal surfaces, because they work primarily by burnishing. I would use the highest-quality Selvyt cloth alone on plated parts.

 

I'm not going to try to speak for fountainpensacs.com; I think your question is best directed to that company.

 

--Daniel

[KBeezie]

Rouge cloths are intended for solid precious-metal surfaces, because they work primarily by burnishing. I would use the highest-quality Selvyt cloth alone on plated parts.

 

I'm not going to try to speak for fountainpensacs.com; I think your question is best directed to that company.

 

--Daniel

Though the 'red' portion of the rouge cloth is intended for removing tarnish and such, the yellow portion "Polish with light cloth to heighten lustre". The yellow side did wonders for the cap, I just gently applied the yellow cloth over it for a little bit of a haze, then did the same again with a clean microfibre cloth. No darkness came off on the yellow cloth (usually only does if I were treating a surface first with the red side, but as you said you shouldn't use that on coated/plated surfaces), Really bought a luster back to it and made it seem like a solid shiny surface, smooth and dry to the touch.

 

The only cosmetic issue with the cap in some parts is a little bit of that 'bubbling' effect to it which doesn't seem to ever change, but not something that I can do anything about. I imagine that one day eventually they will chip or split, but they have not yet.

 

So other than the simple Jeweler's cloth, I'll forgo trying to apply anything to the cap and just leave it be.

 

Far as acids in Carnauba Wax I'll inquire with FPS, many restoration experts trust their products far as I'm aware, but I'm just curious to hear what they say.

[kirchh]

Far as acids in Carnauba Wax I'll inquire with FPS, many restoration experts trust their products far as I'm aware, but I'm just curious to hear what they say.

I'd be surprised if many restoration experts use Carnauba wax on vintage pens.

 

--Daniel

[KBeezie]

I'd be surprised if many restoration experts use Carnauba wax on vintage pens.

 

--Daniel

What do you use as a final polish/protectant?

[kirchh]

What do you use as a final polish/protectant?

Nothing. I keep pens in well-ventilated storage with low humidity and total darkness. I distribute 3M Tarni-Shield strips throughout the cases. I've not seen compelling evidence that any substance serves as a benign protectant.

 

--Daniel

[KBeezie]

Nothing. I keep pens in well-ventilated storage with low humidity and total darkness. I distribute 3M Tarni-Shield strips throughout the cases. I've not seen compelling evidence that any substance serves as a benign protectant.

 

--Daniel

So just clean, polish, leave surface as is, and store in a friendly environment.

Just figured I'd ask since you have Specialty Pen Restoration in your signature.

 

Anywho I did get a response back just for the sake of asking:

 

Hello Karl,

 

I guess everyone has a right to their opinion.

 

* *Carnauba wax*is recovered from a variety of palm tree which grows

almost exclusively in northeastern Brazil. Carnauba wax forms on the

fronds of the trees and is recovered by cutting and drying the

fronds, then mechanically removing the wax. Impurities are removed

from the wax by melting and filtering, or centrifuging.

 

 

Carnauba wax is used in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, food - you name it --- it's very safe. Is there some research out there that has identified a potential problem?? Maybe - but I haven't seen it. I have used Carnauba wax on my pens as well as other metals and plastics for years (years and years). _It not only polishes but protects the surface as well_. As a side note: many people on the forums have issues with latex sacs because they out-gas over time supposedly damaging a pen - but I wouldn't use anything else in my pens. So like I said everybody has an opinion and everybody seems to be an expert.

 

I hope all your repairs are going well.

 

Happy Holidays -- Larry

[piter22]

Platinum is acid-resistant metal. I think Carnauba wax layer is thin and you don't have to be afraid of small amount of acid from wax. Sweat from fingers is more harmful IMHO. A lot of metal objects are protected by lacquer - capon, which is nitrocellulose lacquer. I think you have to be arfaid of scratches and wiping out platinum plating more than an oxidation.

Edited December 21, 2014 by piter22

[KBeezie]

Platinum is acid-resistant metal. I think Carnauba wax layer is thin and you don't have to be afraid of small amount of acid from wax. Sweat from fingers is more harmful IMHO. A lot of metal objects are protected by lacquer - capon, which is nitrocellulose lacquer. I think you have to be arfaid of scratches and wiping out platinum plating more than an oxidation.

Light scratching and rubbing is my primary concern, not things like oxidation or tarnish, since as others have already mentioned it's a noble metal.