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Need Advise On How To Break Ink Surface Tension In The Con-70


Algester

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this now what I have generally noticed about the CON-70 it is very inefficient at breaking ink surface tension yet I'm not sure if sacrificing a cartridge just for the bb inside it would be worth it, the converter has no problems after the fill but when air gets inside of the converter thats when the problem starts also happens when using iroshizuku inks so right now im using a con-50 until i can finally get this problem sorted.

To understand how the con-70 works is that it has 2 "reservoirs"

The first being where the ink is normally being held the larger tank while the second reservoir is found beyond the band where the converter essentially meets the nipple in the section and this is normally where the ink essentially gets "stuck" resulting in needing to shake the pen (was currently inserted on my custom heritage 91) to relieve the surface tension I did try to remove fhe converter while there is still ink and the part where the ink gets stuck is definitely true

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this now what I have generally noticed about the CON-70 it is very inefficient at breaking ink surface tension yet I'm not sure if sacrificing a cartridge just for the bb inside it would be worth it

 

That was the best BB sacrifice I ever made.

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I'm not sure about the Con 70. A little shaking should work, since the converter already has a floating part inside (stopper and breather tube). Although most of my Pilots came with the Con 70, I pretty much always refill a cart. On the Pilot cart, it's pretty simple even with an eye dropper since the opening is so wide. Best to remove the plastic tab first, though. Especially with more expensive inks, like Iroshizuku, I prefer to refill the cart. Much less ink is lost that way.

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I never really liked this CC - I have read some reviews of people who really like it (Brian Goulet) and always wondered if I was just using it wrong. I'm not sure why a larger version of a piston fill converter wasn't used by Pilot - it seems way more reliable to me. I get the problem you described above often, as well as some others (i.e. the push button starts to stick after awhile). Also, the push button experience is just a bit awkward to me - I'm always afraid I'm going to bang the nib in the ink bottle because you really have to get aggressive with it.

 

Basically, I use it because the ink capacity is good and my favorite pilot's come with it.

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I'm no longer allowed to answer this question as I will be labelled an arrogant ass...

MB JFK BB; 100th Anniversary M; Dumas M FP/BP/MP set; Fitzgerald M FP/BP/MP set; Jules Verne BB; Bernstein F; Shaw B; Schiller M; yellow gold/pearl Bohème Pirouette Lilas (custom MB-fitted EF); gold 744-N flexy OBB; 136 flexy OB; 236 flexy OBB; silver pinstripe Le Grand B; 149 F x2; 149 M; 147 F; 146 OB; 146 M; 146 F; 145P M; 162 RB
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And, w w w dot g o o g l e dot c o m ...

MB JFK BB; 100th Anniversary M; Dumas M FP/BP/MP set; Fitzgerald M FP/BP/MP set; Jules Verne BB; Bernstein F; Shaw B; Schiller M; yellow gold/pearl Bohème Pirouette Lilas (custom MB-fitted EF); gold 744-N flexy OBB; 136 flexy OB; 236 flexy OBB; silver pinstripe Le Grand B; 149 F x2; 149 M; 147 F; 146 OB; 146 M; 146 F; 145P M; 162 RB
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I'm no longer allowed to answer this question as I will be labelled an arrogant ass...

Try complementing her somethings. If that doesn't work, try alcohol.

San Francisco International Pen Show - The next “Funnest Pen Show” is on schedule for August 23-24-25, 2024.  Watch the show website for registration details. 
 

My PM box is usually full. Just email me: my last name at the google mail address.

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I never really liked this CC - I have read some reviews of people who really like it (Brian Goulet) and always wondered if I was just using it wrong. I'm not sure why a larger version of a piston fill converter wasn't used by Pilot - it seems way more reliable to me. I get the problem you described above often, as well as some others (i.e. the push button starts to stick after awhile). Also, the push button experience is just a bit awkward to me - I'm always afraid I'm going to bang the nib in the ink bottle because you really have to get aggressive with it.

 

Basically, I use it because the ink capacity is good and my favorite pilot's come with it.

 

Because a longer piston stroke wastes more space i.e you can only dedicate about half the length to storing ink.

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Why?

This question was originally solved/answered by me several years ago based on a careful study of balls, and I can't be bothered to find links to my previous, high precision, and highly effective answers.

 

Excuse me... I have an itch...

MB JFK BB; 100th Anniversary M; Dumas M FP/BP/MP set; Fitzgerald M FP/BP/MP set; Jules Verne BB; Bernstein F; Shaw B; Schiller M; yellow gold/pearl Bohème Pirouette Lilas (custom MB-fitted EF); gold 744-N flexy OBB; 136 flexy OB; 236 flexy OBB; silver pinstripe Le Grand B; 149 F x2; 149 M; 147 F; 146 OB; 146 M; 146 F; 145P M; 162 RB
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This question was originally solved/answered by me several years ago based on a careful study of balls, and I can't be bothered to find links to my previous, high precision, and highly effective answers.

 

Excuse me... I have an itch...

Well as time passes there could be new ways.

 

We no longer use rubbing sticks to create a fire.

#Nope

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It fills up finely for me so brian's video isnt of help really...

This is my problem

http://imgur.com/td1EGw4l.jpg

This problem is only exhibited if the ink is at a certain level

The ink is J.herbin bleu nuit so I know its the most watery ink i have

Edited by Algester
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Is adhesion the problem or is it properly pumping the converter. Pumping slowly in a full bottle of ink seems to be the answer in the above thread. If it's adhesion I usually take the converter apart, and then apply a very very thin layer of silicone grease on the insides of the converter with a Q tip. Always done the trick for me especially in international converters.

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Is adhesion the problem or is it properly pumping the converter. Pumping slowly in a full bottle of ink seems to be the answer in the above thread. If it's adhesion I usually take the converter apart, and then apply a very very thin layer of silicone grease on the insides of the converter with a Q tip. Always done the trick for me especially in international converters.

Its probably adhesion the smaller neck as I illustrated above make it so the ink from the main tank sometimes doesnt let the ink flow (hence I think surface tension) through, and the needle doesnt really puncture the ink on the smaller neck I dunno whats the threads leading me to filling though because I can fully fill the converter... I tried to use the agitator found in the con-50 but I feel its the same thing...

If people still dont know the smaller neck has a liner (thicker than what you see in the sailor converter) where it meets the bigger tank this is to prevent the stopper "letting through" more into the smaller opening

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK I'm bringing this topic back up if anyone has brighter Ideas beyond fully disassembling the converter (meaning I'll be also taking the metal rod apart) since I figured out how the converter was actually made.

 

I'm in need of ideas because I can't apply standard international converter fixes on this type of converter (clearly, maybe a bit but it would need quite a bit of resource)

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