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Got A New Moore Bchr, My Oldest Pen Yet.


KBeezie

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My newest and probably my oldest (by age) acquisition. A Moore BCHR (Black Chased Hard Rubber) lever filler (an L92 I think) from around 1910 to 1920. Freshly blackened, and I just got around to sealing the section and smoothing/adjusting the nib. The nib is an untipped 14K gold nib with some flex to it. The feed is just a straight (no fins/collectors) hard rubber feed.


Got it currently filled up with Rohrer & Klingner Salix (Blue-ish Iron Gall).


The two write samples on Rhodia 80g (#12 pad, 3.3in x 4.7in) is the front and back, the first being the initial fill and testing, and the back side is when I went and re-smoothed it to get the outer sides from catching on the paper.


http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/moore_bchr/capped.jpg


http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/moore_bchr/uncapped.jpg


http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/moore_bchr/uncapped_2.jpg


http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/moore_bchr/posted.jpg


http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/moore_bchr/write_salix.jpg


http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/moore_bchr/write_salix2.jpg

Edited by KBeezie
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Very sharp chasing. :thumbup:

How flexible is the nib?

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Very sharp chasing. :thumbup:

How flexible is the nib?

 

Not nearly as flexible as say a Nikko-G dip nib, but much easier to flex with very little pressure. In the write sample above on the #12 rhodia pad that's within the range of comfort.

 

Something like this at the top right that I did earlier today was with little to no effort. http://instagram.com/p/umeMOmk98X/?modal=true

Though I did tackle some edge scratching with some micromesh, and it's sort of a slight left oblique which works nicely for me. I can get a slightly drier flow straight on without it skipping (needless to say it's sort of "personalized" to me now).

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That looks like one that I have sitting in my repair box...

 

Perhaps you could help me:I cannot seem to get the pen apart, so I can replace the sac. I feel like I know where the joint is, yet cannot get this pen apart.

 

Did you do the blackening? Any suggestions?

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That looks like one that I have sitting in my repair box...

 

Perhaps you could help me:I cannot seem to get the pen apart, so I can replace the sac. I feel like I know where the joint is, yet cannot get this pen apart.

 

Did you do the blackening? Any suggestions?

 

I didn't do the restoration on it, Sean did ( Write on Time : https://www.facebook.com/pages/Write-on-Time-Vintage-Pens-Watches-Restoration-and-Service/208871225809681 )

 

I'm not sure if it's any different with hard rubber, but I usually find that soaking the pen (or least the forward portion of it) for a while can help loosen the glue/seal if any. It'll probably be easier if you can get the nib and feed out without breaking it (if you don't think you can, leave it be).

 

The repair subforum may be better to inquire or search in.

Edited by KBeezie
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I restored an old Moore L-72, and am in the process of restoring a 92 and a Non-breakable. I used a long soak in room temperature tap water (overnight). This allowed me to pull the nib and fees out quite easily. On one the section also came out easily. The other two inhad to return to the water to soakn for another 24 hours and then use my wifes hair dryer to apply neat to the spot where the barrel is mated to the section. After a few attempts trying to pulls them apart I finally got one free. The 92 I have still hasn't come apart and I am hesitant to use any other means because I don't want tondamage the pen. I advise soaking and heat, if that doesn't work then you might have to seek professional help.

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would you not get serious discoloration of the hard rubber by leaving it in water????

 

Well I suppose that's why they make blackening solution for those who care. :P (but I can't imagine it being discolored from it's current state just from tap water for just a day to get it all apart, restored, and put together again).

 

I think an ammonia bath would have more of an impact.

 

Anyone have more info on this? I would think that if it would have "serious" discoloration just from half a day of soaking, that someone would have said so when suggesting how to get it apart.

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