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Fountain Pen Friendly Christmas Cards


wilsonbt

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Dunno if they make Christmas cards, but Papyrus cards are all FP friendly.

Some people say they march to a different drummer. Me? I hear bagpipes.

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Like AndrewC, I don't know about Christmas cards specifically, but I can tell you that The Paper Studio "Box of Cards" are quite FP friendly. I buy mine at Hobby Lobby, and have used "Sophia Grace" and "Tattered and Worn." Really pretty cards with a blank inside. I use a 1.5 nib on them; no issue whatsoever. Here is a quick link, but you may have to do some digging for specialty cards.

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Hmm, you reminded me.

I have to do that exact search.

 

I try to feel the card.

Rough surface, NO GOOD, pen will write roughly.

SLICK surface, NO GOOD, ink will not absorb.

 

Then I use a medium wetness pen. A WET pen could cause feathering.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

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If all else fails. there's always the option of making an internal sheet. Some rather posh cards come with one pre-made, but you can make your own with little trouble: cut the (FP friendly) paper down to the right size (between .25" and .5" smaller all around than the panel of your card), put glue down the long side closest to the fold of the card, line up and press into place. If you're not sure about the message, write up the insert before glueing, that way you don't waste a card. Otherwise, doing it up in a production line is quicker and easier.

 

For best results, use something other than liquid glue because it can be quite hard to avoid getting paper all wrinkly, especially with paper lighter than about 120gsm. Your best bet is probably double-sided tape (the roller kind is a lot easier to use than the type on a roll). If you don't have any, stick is fine as long as you don't pile it on - one firm swipe, a few mm away from the edge to ensure there's no spillover. If there is you might still be able to salvage it using a rubber eraser, just wait until it's dried a bit so it won't smudge. Stick glue is also a good option if you're not confident about getting the placement right first go because you can lift it out and reposition while the glue is still wet, which you can't do with most adhesive tapes.

 

For paper, go for something relatively thin, that seems to be the trend for internal sheets. Tomoe River paper might be a good place to start, especially since you can get samples. It comes in cream and white too, so you have some options. Velum paper is also popular, it's paper that mimics the appearance of velum and is slightly translucent - you can get it at many art and craft shops.

 

good luck :-)

I'm not affiliated with ANY of the brands/retailers/shops/ebay sellers/whatever I mention or recommend. If that ever changes, I will let you know :)

 

Looking for a cheap Pilot VP/Capless - willing to put up with lots of cosmetic damage.

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Plume

Thanks, the insert is a GREAT idea.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

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Just found the ones I have used in the past and tried one out. They are made by Pomegranate, and are not slick, but you need to select a nib and ink carefully I think as the Stipula Moss with a Visconti M feathered a bit. Not to illegibility, and I have small writing, but it feathered a bit.

 

I do work at a winery, and when we hand label, we use a brayer roller to apply the labels without wrinkles or bubbles.

Some people say they march to a different drummer. Me? I hear bagpipes.

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Plume

Thanks, the insert is a GREAT idea.

 

 

Thank you everyone for the advice. I really like the idea you gave Plume. That might be what I end up doing. Thanks!

 

no problem :) Love me some DIY solutions ;)

Just found the ones I have used in the past and tried one out. They are made by Pomegranate, and are not slick, but you need to select a nib and ink carefully I think as the Stipula Moss with a Visconti M feathered a bit. Not to illegibility, and I have small writing, but it feathered a bit.

 

I do work at a winery, and when we hand label, we use a brayer roller to apply the labels without wrinkles or bubbles.

yep, a brayer's what I had in mind! Although if you've only got the basic glueing skills like you get from school-type glues, a brayer can be tricky as well. There's a knack to it too :)

 

But now I'm curious, could you tell me more about this hand labeling business? I'd thought that wine bottle labels were applied with some sort of machine - in what kinds of situations would you do it by hand? What sort of glue is it - is it different than what's used in machine/automated labeling? Is the adhesive pre-applied, so basically the label is like a sticker and the hand-made part is strictly applying the sticker, or do you put the glue too?

I'm not affiliated with ANY of the brands/retailers/shops/ebay sellers/whatever I mention or recommend. If that ever changes, I will let you know :)

 

Looking for a cheap Pilot VP/Capless - willing to put up with lots of cosmetic damage.

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most of the labels come off a roll with stickum on the back of each label. Most of the wines are machine done. We have some port style wine in traditional 375 port bottles, and we also are part of a brandy distillery. These get hand labeled and dipped in wax. We use glue sticks. Honestly, I have not looked to see if it is any special glue stick. As a dad with a 16 &12 y/o, it just looks like a glue stick to me. So, for the hand done labels, apply glue to label, label to bottle, transfer everything to the backroom and turn on the little crock pot and dip the ends to seal. I'll look tomorrow to see if there is something special about the glue sticks.

Some people say they march to a different drummer. Me? I hear bagpipes.

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The Rossi Christmas cards I bought a while ago were nice, and fountain pen friendly.

fpn_1375035941__postcard_swap.png * * * "Don't neglect to write me several times from different places when you may."
-- John Purdue (1863)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Way back when, while taking a plethora of art classes at University, the instructor of my Graphic Design section taught us to adhere paper additions to collage using 'spray glue' made by 3M I think...though there are likely other brands. Check via google or a visit to your local B&M Art or Craft Supply Store. The benefit is that you get a uniform adhesive backing to your item. Put it face down on a clean surface, give it a light spray, then CAREFULLY set one corner in place and adjust for a perfect alignment and let then let the rest of the item down onto the (in this case) card. Place a clean piece of paper on top and press with your fingers. Viola! No tape marks. No wrinkles from wet glues, etc. Just a thought.

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I hate to go back on a thread like that, but I'd say think twice about the spray glue. It is just awful stuff - both in terms of effectiveness/ease of working with it, and personal comfort or health.

 

For the latter, it is REALLY good at going straight for your mucous membranes and gifting you with a nagging little cough the rest of the day - and it doesn't matter whether you use it indoors or out, each has drawbacks. I don't think it does any permanent damage, at least not with once-in-a-blue-moon use, BUT it is thoroughly (and lingeringly) unpleasant, particularly for anyone with the slightest degree of sensitivity in the upper respiratory system or the eyes. That means vulnerabilities as varied as occasional hayfever, dust allergies, a propensity towards sinusitis or pharyngitis, or migraines. Adds up to a sizable portion of the gen pop, lol.

 

As for effectiveness, it's a female dog to use without making a big sticky mess out of either your project, or your surroundings. It's not as simple as spritzing on deodorant or spraying your hair after a blow-dry, unfortunately! It takes practice to do the job right at all, at least as much as working with other glues.

 

/end PSA :P

 

On the bright side, you also don't need it as much as you think you do when you first hear about it! There ARE a few situations where it stands out as the best option, but most of what it does (including the collages blackhorse was taught to use it for at uni), you can do better with either a different specialized glue, or a bog-standard glue from the office supply store but used with a different technique that is transferrable to other situations. This is particularly true if you're working with flat papers. No headache or stuffy nose required! :)

I'm not affiliated with ANY of the brands/retailers/shops/ebay sellers/whatever I mention or recommend. If that ever changes, I will let you know :)

 

Looking for a cheap Pilot VP/Capless - willing to put up with lots of cosmetic damage.

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If all else fails. there's always the option of making an internal sheet.

 

You are the king/queen/gender-neutral ruler of awesome DIY suggestions. All over FPN, I see you encouraging great projects and creative solutions. I really appreciate it, and it makes me want to get messy!

 

So thanks. :)

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Dunno if they make Christmas cards, but Papyrus cards are all FP friendly.

 

They definitely make Christmas cards. Thanks Andrew!

 

Although Plume's idea is great, I am just too lazy to mess about with glue. A trip to Papyrus it is!

Edited by Surei
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  • 2 weeks later...

 

You are the king/queen/gender-neutral ruler of awesome DIY suggestions. All over FPN, I see you encouraging great projects and creative solutions. I really appreciate it, and it makes me want to get messy!

 

So thanks. :)

ooh, just saw this! (I tend to post in bursts). Yes please, do get messy!! I guarantee you'll have fun and I can't wait to see the results! Don't worry if you don't get tons of ideas at first, either, because it seems to be a consensus among those with the MYO habit that the more you DIY things, the more you see potential for DIYing. It's not just the classic 'practice makes perfect' lecture (lol), although that's true enough as far as it goes, it's more that your perspective on how everyday things are made shifts and your entire relationship with the tangible world of materials, workmanship and so on shifts with it :)

I'm not affiliated with ANY of the brands/retailers/shops/ebay sellers/whatever I mention or recommend. If that ever changes, I will let you know :)

 

Looking for a cheap Pilot VP/Capless - willing to put up with lots of cosmetic damage.

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I buy my cards at Costco, usually from among the so-called designer models, usually something with Santa or Christmas packages or a peace dove. I've done this for years. They've all been FP-friendly. This was last year's card. The message inside was in silver, and so I used red and green for the sign-off. This year's card wasn't one of the pricier models; I didn't like any of those. The "vintage" Mickey Mouse card has red on the inside, and so I'll use either BSB or Visconti Blue with an italic nib. I've tested both inks on the card and envelope. Neither ink feathered or took an undue amount of time to dry.

 

 

I love the smell of fountain pen ink in the morning.

 

 

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Just to be sure, I usually opt for a separate ink friendly sheet to insert into most of my greeting cards. Too many times have I started writing inside a limited edition art card, only to have my ink blot on the paper.

 

I love the whimsical drawings of certain local artist & have used her cards for years.

In general, ferrogallic inks (Akkerman Ijzer-galnoten blauw/zwart # 10, R&K Salix & Scabiosa, Platinum's blue/black, Diamine Registrar's, old formula MBMB,......) seem to be the most greeting card friendly, but you still have to test these inks out before you use them on any card stock.

Edited by tinta

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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  • 3 years later...

The Rossi Christmas cards I bought a while ago were nice, and fountain pen friendly.

The Rossi cards are sold in the U.S. at Papier Plume, and are beautiful cards. I just wish they bled the ones that are paintings off the edge of the card. The white border -- even though it's deckled paper -- gives it an unfinished look.

Edited by Retro-user
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