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Why File The J Bar?


Freshink

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I have read several posts where the "filing away the flanges" is part of the discussion, but I can't find a thread that explains the "why" one would need to do that.

 

I took apart an Estie a few weeks ago, and the j bar fell out in two pieces...so, I stuck another one in...seemed to work ok.

 

Not sure why I would need to file down the flanges.

 

Can anyone remark why?

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The modern replacement J bars are generic in fitment. They May Work on different pens Without modification, they may not.

 

Generally, the issue with an Estiebrook is that the flange, the "shoulders" of the replacement generic J bar, allow too much space for the end of the lever that is inside the barrel when the lever end on the outside is lifted, to move within that "channel" created by the shoulders of the bar. Filing those shoulders away, or mostly away, eliminates any excessive space for the lever end inside the barrel to move within and stops the lever from "flopping".

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

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The modern replacement J bars are generic in fitment. They May Work on different pens Without modification, they may not.

 

Generally, the issue with an Estiebrook is that the flange, the "shoulders" of the replacement generic J bar, allow too much space for the end of the lever that is inside the barrel when the lever end on the outside is lifted, to move within that "channel" created by the shoulders of the bar. Filing those shoulders away, or mostly away, eliminates any excessive space for the lever end inside the barrel to move within and stops the lever from "flopping".

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

:notworthy1:

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The modern replacement J bars are generic in fitment. They May Work on different pens Without modification, they may not.

 

Generally, the issue with an Estiebrook is that the flange, the "shoulders" of the replacement generic J bar, allow too much space for the end of the lever that is inside the barrel when the lever end on the outside is lifted, to move within that "channel" created by the shoulders of the bar. Filing those shoulders away, or mostly away, eliminates any excessive space for the lever end inside the barrel to move within and stops the lever from "flopping".

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

 

Lesson #975....duly noted. And....I have one that's doing that. Now I know why. :P

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The only case where this is really necessary is when the lever box area has seen some expansion and when the lever will not sit tightly inside the box without flopping out. Another option is to slightly expand the inside of the lever where it meets the box area to make for a tighter fit. Grinding down the bar is relatively easy enough though if you have the right equipment.

www.esterbrook.net All Esterbrook, All the Time.
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The only case where this is really necessary is when the lever box area has seen some expansion and when the lever will not sit tightly inside the box without flopping out. Another option is to slightly expand the inside of the lever where it meets the box area to make for a tighter fit. Grinding down the bar is relatively easy enough though if you have the right equipment.

 

Not quite correct. I have encountered many cases where the lever end sits flush or nearly flush with the barrel. An OEM pressure bar works, bit even then there are cases where the original pressure bar does not hold the lever tight against the barrel. The channel on some of the replacement pressure bars can be ridiculously deep so the lever never even comes close to resting on the pressure, and the sides need to be ground down.

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Not quite correct. I have encountered many cases where the lever end sits flush or nearly flush with the barrel. An OEM pressure bar works, bit even then there are cases where the original pressure bar does not hold the lever tight against the barrel. The channel on some of the replacement pressure bars can be ridiculously deep so the lever never even comes close to resting on the pressure, and the sides need to be ground down.

I'm not talking about the lever sitting flush so much as in most (but perhaps not all) cases where a replacement pressure bar is used which causes the lever to flop about aimlessly, the lever box area appears to show some form of expansion. If I see an expanded box, it is my first clue that the J bar will need to be ground down, so I usually do it then rather to find out I need to remove it and grind it down anyway.
www.esterbrook.net All Esterbrook, All the Time.
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Another option is to slightly expand the inside of the lever where it meets the box area to make for a tighter fit.

I've done that more than once. It works fine.

 

It's just a band-aid but it'll work for at least awhile for those too skeered to open one up.

 

I use the awl point on my Swiss Army knife.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

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Since we are talking about J-bars.

How does one measure the length of a J-bar?

- I am thinking from the point in the curve of the J farthest to the end of the pen to the end of the bar.

- But is it perhaps the flat part of the bar?

 

I need to place an order to Brian to get a few J-bars for Esterbrooks and a couple of Warevers.

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The Estie bars I've measured are approximately 49-50 mm from the flat end to the end of the J.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl-who Is Not looking forward to the day he runs out of spare factory J bars

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Bruce in Ocala, Fl-who Is Not looking forward to the day he runs out of spare factory J bars

 

I wish J bars were made more to the traditional standards. The existing modern ones are not functional for a J with it's sac tray as it is too long.

 

imo, any time you have to modify the replacement part to get it to work properly indicates deficiencies in said part.

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I wish J bars were made more to the traditional standards. The existing modern ones are not functional for a J with it's sac tray as it is too long.

 

imo, any time you have to modify the replacement part to get it to work properly indicates deficiencies in said part.

 

Understood. But preserving and maintaining the machinery that made J-bars, clips, levers, etc. to Esterbrook specs would likely be the last thing on anyone's mind as the company was disassembling, so these days we have to make do with what's available.

 

Absent an original, it's still good that we're able to find a generic that fits, even tho it may require local modification.

 

And if you think about it, there probably wouldn't be a decent supply of original design, traditional standard pen sacs today, if it weren't for two c-worders (Bob Tefft and Peter Amis) who spent their own money to purchase and revive the old machinery from the defunct White Rubber Company back in 1986. Hard to imagine the number of vintage pens that are writing today because of sacs made by today's Pen Sac Company. Heroes, they are, sez me.

Best Regards
Paul


“Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
– Albert Einstein

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imo, any time you have to modify the replacement part to get it to work properly indicates deficiencies in said part.

If we were talking about replacement window glass for a '63 split window Vette, I'd agree.

 

 

A '59 Estie part? Not so much.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

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And if you think about it, there probably wouldn't be a decent supply of original design, traditional standard pen sacs today, if it weren't for two c-worders (Bob Tefft and Peter Amis) who spent their own money to purchase and revive the old machinery from the defunct White Rubber Company back in 1986. Hard to imagine the number of vintage pens that are writing today because of sacs made by today's Pen Sac Company. Heroes, they are, sez me.

Testify my Brutha!

 

I've thought about TPSC a lot already.

 

I would have Loved to be a fly on the wall their first meeting with the Loan Officer. "You want How Much to make What?!"

 

Without them resaccing pens would be noticeably more difficult.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

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This has been yet another informative thread. I have installed a new J bar after some gentle modification with my Dremel on low speed.

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