The Utmost Importance Of Fountain Pen Friendly Paper

[Anne-Sophie]

Many fountain pen users, from first timers on a budget to veterans experimenting with ecofriendly paper, everyone must understand the utmost importance of fountain pen friendly paper

 

I have used fountain pens for long writing secession since the 4th grade, I never had any trouble with any of my fountain pens (moderately priced workhorse school pens), always filled with Waterman Florida Blue (Serenity, Now!).

 

A year ago, I had a lot of trouble with my fountain pens and inkrollers (roller balls that work with fountain pen ink) skipping, drying, behaving in a way they never did before.

 

I blamed the weather, hotter and drier climate because the pens and inks were the same as the ones used since I got the pens.

 

For a while, I decided to use gel pens but mostly lead holder.

 

Some months ago, I bought a desk, and a big stack of Rhodia which I knew to be fountain pen friendly.

 

I also found paper that has been reviewed on FPN as smooth and fountain pen friendly: a Fabriano journal and some Neenah Conservation Paper.

 

I decided to use my remaining recycled paper notepads for lists, quick notes in ball point or pencil.

 

 

The difference is quite remarkable, I have not stopped using my fountain pens, since and it is wonderful!

 

I have concluded that cheap paper shed microscopic bits of fibers on the nib or roller point.

 

They solidify and combine with minute droplets of dried ink to form microscopic leaves between the tines of a nib point or the roller point blocking regular ink flow.

 

 

It only happened now, because I experimented with recycled notepads and printer paper which I though was good enough. It isn't.

 

Before the printer paper, I used either visibly smooth and fountain pen friendly paper and scrap paper for other writing instruments.

 

 

Prior to buying reams of printer paper or notepads/notebooks in bulk, please consult the thread below, if you write with generous Medium, Bold or even bigger nibs.

 

Using nibs with generous flow and width is a totally different ball game than using a Western EF or F or Japanese nibs.

Edited September 13, 2014 by Anne-Sophie

[LamyOne]

Hello Anne-Sophie,

 

I can understand your reasoning behind this post; however, I do not know how many people can really follow it. Businesses would go into bankruptcy if they only used Clarefontaine or Rhodia papers - it just isn't a viable option for businesses who have to keep an eye on the bottom line. But this is why regular bi-directional flushing and nib flossing is so important. I try to flush my pen(s) with every refill and floss the tines with every second refill, (along with a flush), hoping to avoid the experiences you've shared with us today.

 

I will admit, I do not use recyled papers; I use HP business papers, (that I have read are supposed to be FP friendly).

 

Best regards,

 

Chris

Edited September 13, 2014 by LamyOne

[ex-bugonaut]

Thanks for this post. I have found this to be true for office paper as well. After suffering with paper jams using lesser brands of paper ( s*****s and h*mm*****l), we found that Xerox brand copy paper not only doesn't jam, but also looks better.

[ac12]

Unfortunately, I see this regularly, where people want the FP to write on all sorts of junk paper.

They ignore the need for themselves to take ownership and step up to buying and using FP friendly paper.

While a FP can be made to work on some junk paper, it is a LOT easier and better to be using FP friendly paper to begin with.

 

And it does not have to be expensive.

I use Staples made in Brazil notebooks for my journals. 17 cents each during the back to school sale in July/Aug.

[Theo Moore]

Hello Anne-Sophie,

 

I can understand your reasoning behind this post; however, I do not know how many people can really follow it. Businesses would go into bankruptcy if they only used Clarefontaine or Rhodia papers - it just isn't a viable option for businesses who have to keep an eye on the bottom line. But this is why regular bi-directional flushing and nib flossing is so important. I try to flush my pen(s) with every refill and floss the tines with every second refill, (along with a flush), hoping to avoid the experiences you've shared with us today.

 

I will admit, I do not use recyled papers; I use HP business papers, (that I have read are supposed to be FP friendly).

 

Best regards,

 

Chris

 

I agree with Chris. I write a lot for my job, and I use printer paper. It's much easier (and surprisingly, more economical) for me to find a nib and ink that works, than to invest in expensive paper given that I've been writing at this pace for over 10 years. In particular, I've grown accustomed to using EF or F nibs with feather-resistant ink (I can't say how I felt when I tried Noodler's Bulletproof Black for the first time!)

[Bo Bo Olson]

Writing is 1/3 nib width&flex, 1/3 paper and 1/3 ink, and in that order.

 

If condemned to using PPoor paper, then EF or F with a fast drying vivid monotone ink is the only hope.

 

But at home, one should buy some good to better paper with every third ink; then you will have a stockpile of both good inks and good papers.

Good to better paper only costs a couple cans of Coke or cups of Starbucks coffee more than 90g laser only paper.

 

One gets drunk with cheap scotch, sipping good single malt is fun....samo-samo paper.

 

Students can print from online templates, wide, medium or narrow lines on pretty good paper..ie 90g laser paper and be able to use a western B, M or F to make an ink shade...and have fun.

Edited September 13, 2014 by Bo Bo Olson

[Stylo]

I grew up using Clairefontaine notebooks and paper. Trust me, they didn't sell them at the exorbitant prices you find them in the US. But there is a an economical compromise. You can try a few different types of 24lb paper or "premium" office supply chain notebooks until you find something that works well with FPs. In fact, we have a whole forum dedicated mostly to paper. You can start searching for suggestions there

[napalm]

Businesses would go into bankruptcy if they only used Clarefontaine or Rhodia papers - it just isn't a viable option for businesses who have to keep an eye on the bottom line.

 

Could you give us some example of businesses where substituting the paper used for handwritten notes with a decent one would bring their bottom line into red?

[LamyOne]

 

Could you give us some example of businesses where substituting the paper used for handwritten notes with a decent one would bring their bottom line into red?

 

I'm not talking about hand-written personal notes; I am talking about the reams of paper any business goes through in a given month for forms, letters, correspondence, follow-ups, proposals, memos, etc. All of which have to be signed, filled out, edited, etc.

 

- Chris

[napalm]

Yes, but those are done via printers and copiers. The question is - can contemporary business afford to buy, in addition to tons of laser paper, a few reams of reasonably good writing paper? I believe yes. It's just a cultural problem where we tend to do things in the cheapest possible way. And in the end we live the cheapest lives possible....

[RudyR]

 

Could you give us some example of businesses where substituting the paper used for handwritten notes with a decent one would bring their bottom line into red?

 

I take it that you never ran your own business.

 

So I can substantiate the theory that using nothing but Clairfontaine and Rhodia paper, would not necessarily, push me into the red, but would reduce the purchase of more important assets. That's called mismanagement.

[napalm]

 

I take it that you never ran your own business.

 

So I can substantiate the theory that using nothing but Clairfontaine and Rhodia paper, would not necessarily, push me into the red, but would reduce the purchase of more important assets. That's called mismanagement.

 

The cheapest "assets" that someone else also produced in the cheapest way possible?

 

In the end it's a race to the bottom where all that we produce and consume is utter junk.

 

But hey, that's what the Ivy School of Business said that we should be doing. They're the "experts", who are we to question their "science"?

[welch]

Writing is 1/3 nib width&flex, 1/3 paper and 1/3 ink, and in that order.

 

If condemned to using PPoor paper, then EF or F with a fast drying vivid monotone ink is the only hope.

 

But at home, one should buy some good to better paper with every third ink; then you will have a stockpile of both good inks and good papers.

Good to better paper only costs a couple cans of Coke or cups of Starbucks coffee more than 90g laser only paper.

 

One gets drunk with cheap scotch, sipping good single malt is fun....samo-samo paper.

 

Students can print from online templates, wide, medium or narrow lines on pretty good paper..ie 90g laser paper and be able to use a western B, M or F to make an ink shade...and have fun.

 

Bo Bo is right (and I quote his 1/3 1/3 1/3 advice frequently). My grumble is that "they don;t make 'em like they used "...meaning that in the '50s and '60s, ordinary 20-pound three-hole paper -- the sort US school kids used -- did well with fountain pens. The cheaper 16-pound paper might show-though or bleed through, but good National (that was the band) was available in every 5&10 or drugstore...the places we bought our school supplies.

 

Clairfontaine has a coating that National paper did not need. The coating also lengthens the drying time for some inks (Noodler's Blue Eel, for instance). Maybe "vintage" paper had a higher rag content?

[Anne-Sophie]

I am not talking about businesses, I am aware that there is are 2 Paper and Paraphernalia sub forums.

 

 

The post was intended for students who are brand new fountain pen users, buy a proven student or vintage everyday writing pen.

Then, find themselves with a skipping writer, which make them wonder, what is so good about fountain pens, and want to give up on them, after a couple of days, or weeks, of barely legible notes.

 

I know from experience that fountain pens are much, much better for extensive note taking. I want those students to avoid muscle pain associated with long writing secession, which help memorize class notes, organize essay and dissertation research...

 

It might have been better to put the thread in What Happen to New Pens, but my pens weren't new, nor was the ink that I used.

 

 

I think it was one of Bo Bo Olson past post that got me thinking.

 

It talked about what he has written in the above post, that is quoted below:

 

"Writing is 1/3 nib width&flex, 1/3 paper and 1/3 ink, and in that order.

 

If condemned to using PPoor paper, then EF or F with a fast drying vivid monotone ink is the only hope.

 

But at home, one should buy some good to better paper with every third ink; then you will have a stockpile of both good inks and good papers."

 

 

On very poor paper, I switched to inkrollers but it seems that it doesn't do them, any good either.

 

 

A couple of years ago, I wanted to make own paper template using a wider Seyes grid.

 

I priced the cost of very good quality printer paper, and the use of either printer ink or copies at a copy or office supply stores.

 

The price, per page, was comparable or higher than a Rhodia Notepad, in the U.S. It is probably much cheaper in Europe, where, according to Fuddlestack, Rhodia is available in the supermarkets.

 

 

As a student, I didn't have time to do an elaborate cleaning ritual on my pens, I refilled them every evening and used good smooth paper, bought during the back to school bulk pricing, same with ink.

 

 

Below is a link to amberleadavis Informal Review - Papers - Lots Of Different Papers Compared:

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/273959-informal-review-papers-lots-of-different-papers-compared/

 

 

Amberleadavis is one of our lovely mods, who besides having an impressive collection of ink, in an equally impressive cabinet, shares, in the link above, the equally impressive collection of paper she uses with those inks and her fountain pens, in her law practice.

 

 

Both Amberleadavis and Bo Bo Olson have been great inspiration, for embracing quality and beautiful objects, to enhance the enjoyment of our wonderful hobby.

Thank you, both.

Edited September 14, 2014 by Anne-Sophie

[JordanN]

Honestly, >= 24 lb color laser paper works great for me; I don't need the super fancy stuff. Businesses usually keep the thicker color laser paper around for outgoing documents, anyway.

[owend]

I find most printer paper works fine.

 

I did buy a ream of an "eco" paper that was advertised as being made from some recycled but over half from bamboo, which grows so fast it's eco-friendly. The paper was fine for inkjet and laser printers (apart from an inherent slight curl along the long axis), and pencil, but ballpoint and FP seemed to skid regularly, and refuse to write until started on "normal" paper. The paper also felt slightly... plastic? It's hard to describe! Probably because it had a high bamboo content, and bamboo has a grass rather than wood fibre.

[Bo Bo Olson]

Amber is great.

 

Thank you Anne-Sophie.

 

I try to pass on the little I know. All of which I learned from others here on the com.

 

That writing could be fun, was learned here. With a BP writing is only work. Plowing the south forty, with out the mule.

Edited September 14, 2014 by Bo Bo Olson

[georges zaslavsky]

I mostly use HP printing paper and some clairefontaine notebook but I honestly don't give much importance to paper

[Bo Bo Olson]

Georges, you come from a paper rich land.

[Kuhataparunks]

I personally do not like rhodia paper. For a leftie like me, it makes for a smear fest(it's so smooth, alnost plastic-y.) Someone once recommended Sugarcane paper, and I have stocked up; I love it!! Almost a perfect match!