Suggestion For A Nib Knockout Block Available For Purchase

[LargeSofa]

yep - read how to make it on the cheap... saw a nice circular one for sale... any suggestions on the ones available to buy?'

 

thanks.

[FarmBoy]

PenTooling. About half way down on the page. Tell Dale I sent you.

[LargeSofa]

very good. didn't see that when I last looked on the site.

[PAKMAN]

Pendemonium has them for sale $20 under Odds and Ends Pen repair stuff

 

http://www.pendemonium.com/

[pen lady]

So does Woodbin. But if you are stuck and want to make one because you need it NOW, get an empty shallow tin can (cat food, tuna etc.) and punch a few small holes of differing diameters in the bottom using a nail set or awl. It won't be as sturdy as a proper one but will do at a pinch.

Edited September 11, 2014 by pen lady

[Hooker56]

I'm with Perry. I bought the Pendemonium one long ago and had some hollow stainless rods from a trashed gun cleaning kit. Never looked back.

 

Prior to buying one, I used an old 2x4 scrap and drilled holes, screw driver with a broken handle. Finished breaking the handle and used the spindle end as the punch.

[LargeSofa]

thanks... ok, so I will definitely be picking one up... now need to understand how to actually knock out the nib/feed and then put it back in. seems to me without giving much thought that it might leave a mark on the plastic nib section if you put it in a metal hole and then hit the feed with a hammer? what am I missing here??? thanks.

[makas]

Take a look on You Tube. If something isn't broken I don't knock them out any more but that's just what I do.

 

Good luck!

[ac12]

Now that you ask that question...

...you can break the section, damage/break the feed, damage the nib.

IOW as was said, do not knock out the feed unless you really have to.

 

You do not have to knock out the feed to clean the pen.

[Hanamizu]

I bought a metal drill bit gauge for a few bucks on Amazon. That and a couple of pieces of scrap wood does the trick.

[LargeSofa]

I went with the block from pentooling... also bought a bunch of other tools...

[FarmBoy]

I went with the block from pentooling... also bought a bunch of other tools...

Good choice.

[Oslowe]

Can not remember who I stole this idea from or I would credit them. From a friendly hardware store: 2- 1/2" galvanized flanges. 1- 1 1/2" x 1/2" nipple. 1- Drill gauge. Lid gripper cut to size. Need drift punches , hammer, etc.

[penbeggar107]

Get on line and go to The Pen Museum. Arthur Twydles son Peter took over from him and Arthur made them from aluminium tubing and put a silicone top on the tubing and drilled out a number of varied size holes for different sections or barrels.Arthur made them for the kits he supplied to people he trained in Pen repair. Fewer chips or scratches with the silicone. I have been using mine for 15 years and would never go back to metal or wood.

[lcoldfield]

I have used the Arthur Twydle one for the past 20 years (given to me at the end of his one-day coaching course) and i have never seen a better design.

Laurence

[kirchh]

So does Woodbin. But if you are stuck and want to make one because you need it NOW, get an empty shallow tin can (cat food, tuna etc.) and punch a few small holes of differing diameters in the bottom using a nail set or awl. It won't be as sturdy as a proper one but will do at a pinch.

 

This will not work and can damage the section. Such a tin is far too shallow and the lid much too flimsy, and the rounded edges to the holes will not provide enough support to the section flange.

 

--Daniel

[Ron Z]

I agree with Daniel. Using something because it's handy (as in available) often results in damaged pens. You can make a knockout block quite easily out of a piece of scrap wood or a kids block. You don't need a metal plate on top either. Instructions on how to make one, and other basic tools, can be found here.

[PDW]

Bought myself one recently at the Cambridge Pen Show. Plastic plate-with-holes rather than metal - should be kinder to section lips than a metal plate?

[PDW]

I have used the Arthur Twydle one for the past 20 years (given to me at the end of his one-day coaching course)

Laurence

 

I'm adding that course to my 'wish I'd been there' list.

[LWJ2]

I use scrap pieces of maple and drill my own, but I have a set of SAE/AWG/Letter drills, a dial caliper, and a drill press. Pine 2x4 scrap can deform, it's a very soft wood. The kids blocks Ron mentioned are usually made of maple, or were, back in the day. Don't use plywood scrap, it doesn't take a clean hole, and as a result will probably scratch.