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Instructions How To Re-Sac And Parker Jack Knife Safety Pen #20

LargeSofa

By LargeSofa
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LargeSofa Rare

LargeSofa

Posted
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picked one up last night... button filler, awesome shape, no cracks and nib seems to have lots of flex... definitely sac is shot and disintegrated. anyone have instructions or notes on how to open this things up so I can replace the sac and look at what is going on inside? thx.

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kirchh Antique

kirchh

Posted
Posted

Did you search the forum for this information? Seems likely this subject has been discussed.

 

--Daniel

"The greatest mental derangement is to believe things because we want them to be true, not because we observe that they are in effect." --Jacques-Bénigne Bossuet

Daniel Kirchheimer
Specialty Pen Restoration
Authorized Sheaffer/Parker/Waterman Vintage Repair Center
Purveyor of the iCroScope digital loupe

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Hooker56 Vintage

Hooker56

Posted
Posted

are you trying to solicit my business?

 

Wow Large,

 

I think what Daniel was trying to say is: Did you search the forum for this information? Seems likely this subject has been discussed.

 

Didn't see anything about solicitation or business. So, have you searched? You can probably do a Google search on 'Repairing a Parker Safety Jack Knife Pen,' and get a You Tube video on it as well.

 

For instance, this is a good place to start, it is a Pinned post at the top of the Pen Repair Q&A section:

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/11309-repair-reference-information/

 

Look under Pen Sac Repair.

 

Hope this helps-

 

Clayton

 

P.S.- Kirchh is a very successful pen repairer. He doesn't need to solicit business here. Rather he was trying to be helpful I'm sure.

"Not a Hooker Hooker, but rather a left-handed overwriter."

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LargeSofa Rare

LargeSofa

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I did search... and comes up pretty empty with regards to how to open the pen up. I know the replacement sac size thanks to Binder and generally speaking can find the information to replace the actual sac itself. I don't know if it needs some hear to get the grip section off, I did see in one picture where it separates. I also read vaguely about removing the button piece first, not sure. My gripe is the passive aggressive nature of the comment. When an expert makes such a remark to someone who knows next to nothing in comparison, it is not appreciated. Rather, the expert might suggest to search for parker safety re-sac or something of that nature - that would be useful and helpful, unlike how I perceived the useless comment... I don't care. Anyway - sure you may say send it in for $30 and get it done, but I didn't buy it for that, I bought it to do it myself - despite the risk and my growing fondness for the piece over the past 24 hours.

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kirchh Antique

kirchh

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I suggest you search for parker safety re-sac.

 

--Daniel

"The greatest mental derangement is to believe things because we want them to be true, not because we observe that they are in effect." --Jacques-Bénigne Bossuet

Daniel Kirchheimer
Specialty Pen Restoration
Authorized Sheaffer/Parker/Waterman Vintage Repair Center
Purveyor of the iCroScope digital loupe

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Hooker56 Vintage

Hooker56

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I understand, just like any forum there are all kinds of personalities here. Daniel is a pretty direct person and I'm sure he didn't mean to come off as unhelpful. I think he was trying to be helpful in a way that would give you the broadest answer.

 

The post above (LargeSofa post) has better questions and more info. I don't have a #20 but have disassembled a large number of Parker button fillers.

 

Some are threaded and some are friction fit. ALWAYS treat them like they are threaded until or unless you know for sure. Use dry heat like a hairdryer or a crafting heat gun. Direct it at the section/barrel junction and roll it in your fingers for just a couple of seconds, then remove it from heat for a second and feel it. repeat this until it is just within the threshold of touching it.

 

Use gripping material and section pliers to 'unscrew' it. That way if it is threaded you won't damage the threads. You must use patience and go slowly to avoid damage. when done, pull the button out of the back and make sure you don't damage the pressure bar.

 

When you get it apart and re-sac it, talc the sac really well and thread or fit the section back in. Be sure to let the shellac dry (the shellac on the sac...don't shellac the section back in) for a couple of hours before fitting the pressure bar back in from the button hole, then replace the button.

 

Hope this helps-

 

Clayton

 

EDIT: Daniel replied while I was writing this.

Edited by Hooker56

"Not a Hooker Hooker, but rather a left-handed overwriter."

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Hooker56 Vintage

Hooker56

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LargeSofa,

 

I don't know if you are aware or not, those old Black hard rubber pens don't like long soaks or exposure to hot water. It can speed the discoloration instantly.If it's not already, you could end up with a brown pen instead of black. :)

"Not a Hooker Hooker, but rather a left-handed overwriter."

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LargeSofa Rare

LargeSofa

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yes, i did see that in the link you posted. thank you for that... my big question really was if I needed to heat the pen with a heat gun. will also have to research further how to deal with the button and the pressure bar. all new to me and we all have to start somewhere.

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kirchh Antique

kirchh

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I recommend that anyone interested in performing repairs pick up a copy of Marshall and Oldfield's "Pen Repair."

 

--Daniel

"The greatest mental derangement is to believe things because we want them to be true, not because we observe that they are in effect." --Jacques-Bénigne Bossuet

Daniel Kirchheimer
Specialty Pen Restoration
Authorized Sheaffer/Parker/Waterman Vintage Repair Center
Purveyor of the iCroScope digital loupe

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Hooker56 Vintage

Hooker56

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yes, i did see that in the link you posted. thank you for that... my big question really was if I needed to heat the pen with a heat gun. will also have to research further how to deal with the button and the pressure bar. all new to me and we all have to start somewhere.

 

The button is cross cut in sections that are spread slightly to keep it in the barrel. Just pull lightly. If it doesn't come out with fingers, protect it with a little blue tape and gently use pliers to pull it straight out. When the section comes out. the sac will likely be ossified and in pieces. The pressure bar may slide out or it may be stuck in place by pieces of old sac. In either event, be gentle with it and watch how it is oriented so it can be positioned back in the pen in the same way.

"Not a Hooker Hooker, but rather a left-handed overwriter."

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Hooker56 Vintage

Hooker56

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Additional note: The button end of the bar is different from the end that goes against the section lip. This is pretty apparent. once you think about how it fits on the inside of the pen, it's orientation also becomes very apparent. Once you see it outside of the pen, I think you'll be able to visualize how it fits back in.

"Not a Hooker Hooker, but rather a left-handed overwriter."

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LargeSofa Rare

LargeSofa

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okay thanks... that book that Daniel mentioned looks like a great resource. I will definitely get it...

 

can I pull the button out before I take out the grip section, is there anything holding the button in?

 

I have to admit this is pretty exciting to me. I have 50 fountain pens, most are newer mont blanc that I have not had any issues with aside from plating coming off on a pope julius. but my pelikans I have learned to unscrew the nib and on my montegrappa which always clog, figured out that I can pull the nib and feed straight out to clean it.

 

Last night I bought this little parker jack knife, a parker 21, parker sonnet, perfect waterman 100 year (with a dead sac) and a sheaffer snorkel with a dead sac, all for $60... I got the 21 and sonnet writing today after flushing them with JB pen flush... they are awesome... the sonnet is beat up pretty bad, but hey it's still cool.

 

I am pretty into this jack knife pen though, was staring at it all day, nib is super flexible... can't wait.

 

thx.

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Hooker56 Vintage

Hooker56

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Posted (edited)

So in summary, you were already addicted to fountain pens...now the repair monkey is on your back! Be careful as it is hard to put the brakes on! Be very afraid! :yikes:

 

Take a look at this thread. It was a good discussion about tools.

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/273285-tools/

 

Also LargeSofa, the Repair Q&A section is generally the best place to start with any questions pertaining to maintenance and repair. If you don't get answers in there then try the specific brand focus section

Edited by Hooker56

"Not a Hooker Hooker, but rather a left-handed overwriter."

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LargeSofa Rare

LargeSofa

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I got the botton out and was able to slide out the pressure bar... it is a bit oxidized, can I clean it up with a little bit or abrasive paper? appear to be in good shape otherwise... plan to get my heatgun this weekend from my storage (a tool passed on to me by my best friend - which I never had to use of yet)... then will try and remove the threaded section sometime this week...sacs and sac cement and talk are in the mail... : )

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LargeSofa Rare

LargeSofa

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used my heat gun last night... measured a distance of about 3" away on lowest setting where I was getting a reading of 140 degrees on my "thermometer" (I actually have a digital weather station that measures temperature)... anyway, tried to head up the pen and then twist out the section... no luck... any suggestion. was doing it all by hand, did not use the section pliers I bought, they sort of scare me and I feel like it will be easy to crush the pen while trying to get grip...

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Inkysloth Vintage

Inkysloth

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It might take several cycles of warming and trying to twist before it starts to shift. It's worth giving it a few more goes!

Instagram @inkysloth

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