Worn Plating

[LindaM]

A while back I posted to ask what to do about a trim ring that the plating had worn off of. Turned out replacing it was impractical. But lately I've found something that make be fun to try - gilders paste and Vintaj Patina. They come in various colors and are supposed to be permanent after 24 hours curing time. You can layer multiple colors, even.

 

Has anyone tried these on pens yet?

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=gilders+wax

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=vintaj+patina

 

[Ron Z]

There's permanent and then "permanent". Real plating is permanent, more so with tank plating than pen plating because the layer deposited is heavier, but with the right solution both wear well. This would be rather thin, and with constant use would wear off rather quickly. Even heavy lacquer finishes wear. I've seen some so badly worn that there's more brass showing than lacquer.

 

This isn't something that I would do on a pen that I respect. But then again I can replate the metal on pens, and frequently do.

[LindaM]

But on pens that aren't worth re-plating? (As in, all of mine.) It might be fun to do with cheap pens that aren't of any particular value. Thus far, I haven't found anything else to do with non-valuable pens that write well but could do with a facelift..

 

For an example: http://looseendscraftblog.com/playing-with-vintaj-patinas/

[Hooker56]

Linda,

 

As a decorative welder, I have pretty extensive experience with Guilders paste as a finish. It's like a wax-base when dry. Though they claim permanence, it really needs a coat of clear acrylic finish over it to extend it's life. You can thin some acrylic clear finish and dip the part or even try some thinned clear nail polish to protect it.

 

I would never do this with gold filled top tier pen parts for restoration, but for less expensive user grade pens it may improve the looks for quite some time.

 

Good luck,

 

Clayton

[LindaM]

Thanks, Clayton. Vintaj sells a clear coat for such finishes, but regular acrylic sealers are probably a lot cheaper (if in excessive quantities for such a use). I wasn't sure it'd work, so it's good to hear from someone who has used it before. This might be fun, playing around with the colors of some pens that aren't valuable and are highly unlikely to become so.

[pajaro]

This sounds pretty interesting, and might last longer than I will. I have a Montblanc 144 where the gold plating on the clip was gone in less than a year after buying the pen new. It just vanished. The clip is now dull silvery, and seems to be plastic. It has been like this for thirty years. I could play with this and use a rosy color or something to complement the "bordeaux" red color of the pen. Worst case I could buy a new clip on ebay if it all goes south. This is a great idea with possibilities. I would never have thought of this. Thanks for the idea.

[Hooker56]

Hint: Buy the smaller Guilders paste containers (something like 1.8 oz) that are about the size of a silver dollar. It will last you about 250 pen parts. The larger ones (about the size of a cake shoe polish container will last your grandchildren through their lives.

 

Rub it on with a rag or your finger and build up thin coats letting it dry about 2 hours between coats. You can mix and blend colors or highlight to create patina or antiqued look. Just be very gentle when building coats as the new wetter coat can begin to take off the under coats if you're too vigorous. Let the finished piece dry about 12-24 hours before clear coating.

 

Paul - you may have to rough the plastic surface with 2-3000k micromesh before applying so it will stick well.

Edited August 24, 2014 by Hooker56

[pajaro]

Hint: Buy the smaller Guilders paste containers (something like 1.8 oz) that are about the size of a silver dollar. It will last you about 250 pen parts. The larger ones (about the size of a cake shoe polish container will last your grandchildren through their lives.

 

Rub it on with a rag or your finger and build up thin coats letting it dry about 2 hours between coats. You can mix and blend colors or highlight to create patina or antiqued look. Just be very gentle when building coats as the new wetter coat can begin to take off the under coats if you're too vigorous. Let the finished piece dry about 12-24 hours before clear coating.

 

Paul - you may have to rough the plastic surface with 2-3000k micromesh before applying so it will stick well.

 

Thanks, good idea. The MB plastic clip is very slick.

 

I think the way you suggest putting on successive coats is like sort of like glazing.

[Hooker56]

I think the way you suggest putting on successive coats is like sort of like glazing.

 

Yes, Just like glazing...just don't put them in the oven!

[BamaPen]

I read this thread with interest and since I had some Rub'nBuf "gold leaf" I decided to give it a try on a junker pen. I was very disappointed. A thick coat simply hid the imprint on the clip and rubbed off when I attempted to buff it with a soft cloth. A thin coat on the brassed lever rubbed off when I tried to buff it.

 

Perhaps a pass with some fine abrasive to rough up the surface would have helped, but this is as far as I went.

 

John

[Hooker56]

BamaPen,

 

I looked at the Amoco Rub n Buff ingredients and although there are some similar ingredients, I have no experience with it.

 

I also have not used the Guilders on pen parts, but I've used it on a number of different metals and it does coat and hold, but you have to use acrylic to seal it. If you use a petroleum based enamel it will come right off as Guilders has a petroleum base. Rubbing too hard will wear it away until it has cured...hence the thin coats and drying time in between.

[BamaPen]

N

 

BamaPen,

 

I looked at the Amoco Rub n Buff ingredients and although there are some similar ingredients, I have no experience with it.

 

I also have not used the Guilders on pen parts, but I've used it on a number of different metals and it does coat and hold, but you have to use acrylic to seal it. If you use a petroleum based enamel it will come right off as Guilders has a petroleum base. Rubbing too hard will wear it away until it has cured...hence the thin coats and drying time in between.

No argument here...I had the Rub'nBuf and it says "wax metallic finish" on the tube, so I thought it might be about the same thing. I looked at several sites on the web who extolled its virtue and durability and that encouraged me. I was not impressed by its performance, however.

 

I will wait for someone else to try Guilders wax on a pen and report back here on the result. I'd certainly like to have an inexpensive way to make some pens look better - pens that aren't worth the cost of having parts replated.

 

John

[LindaM]

I went to the crafts store today in hopes of getting one or another of the products, but they didn't have anything in stock. Guess I'll have to order it and wait on delivery. I'll post what my results are when possible.

[Ron Z]

Knowing how plating wears, I suspect that you will see similar results with the Guilders wax as with the Rub'nBuff which is used to guild picture frames, and can be used to highlight names engraved in pens. Even when cared for pens and pen trim take a surprising amount of abuse. Report back after several months of use...

[pajaro]

Knowing how plating wears, I suspect that you will see similar results with the Guilders wax as with the Rub'nBuff which is used to guild picture frames, and can be used to highlight names engraved in pens. Even when cared for pens and pen trim take a surprising amount of abuse. Report back after several months of use...

 

Predictably you are right and this type of coating would have to be renewed periodically. I'll have to rethink whether I'm up for this kind of mess. There have been a number of things I have tried with pens. Most have to be undone or the pen gets tossed if it turns out to be a real mess. I have done some successful gilding on picture frames, but picture frames don't get handled all the time. In the past I have just accepted plating loss as the badge of use. It's not so bad. A pen with plating loss is a pen that was a joy to use.

[Ron Z]

A pen with plating loss is a pen that was a joy to use

Which is why Robyn and I expect a pen in pristine condition to write like a chicken foot... And it usually does. If it had written nicely it would have been used a lot.

[LindaM]

Ron - why are you being so negative? You haven't tried this and had no other suggestions to make, plus this will be used on pens that won't be re-plated so you risk losing no business from it. Therefore, what's the point? It might just work well, too. No one knows yet.

[Ron Z]

I'm so negative because while I haven't tried this specific product, I do have a lot of experience in repair (like a quarter century), and have tried other similar materials myself with less than ideal results. I also see the end result where something like this (i.e. expedient, not best practice) has been tried and not only has it not worked, it has resulted in damage to the pen which is sent to me to redeem the pen. Knowing the materials that you are working on and with makes a difference. If pen plating of trim, even with proper surface prep and a quality solution, can have wear issues, I can't imagine that this will hold up well at all.

 

My main interest in posting here is in helping folks to repair their pens and to help them avoid damaging their pens if at all possible. I suspect that I lose more business than I gain in the process because they DO repair their own pens, but with excellent results instead of damage as a result...

 

By all means, DO try the stuff, DO report the results, not just right away, but 6 months, 12 months and longer down the road. I just doubt that it will look as good, nor will it hold up long enough to make it worth the cost and effort.