My First Estie

[gweimer1]

Is there a secret handshake I need to learn? I've got a few Parkers, but the bug caught me, and I decided to look for an Esterbrook J. By mere coincidence, this listing came across my path on eBay, and it was only 10 minutes away. I got the pen, no shipping, and just picked it up.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Blue-Esterbrook-2668-Fountain-Pen-/201137418150?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=GMqmL5x4Fo2yqW5erEeZSmVaFWo%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

 

I've got it back in my apartment, and this is what I have. It's an early transition J, from what I have learned. This pen was at an auctioneer's warehouse when I picked it up. Tons of junk on skids in the parking lot. When I got home, the nib came off easily, but has a layer of old, dried up ink on it. It's sitting in a soak for the next day. The pen itself is pretty clean, but this one got some use. The Esterbrook engraving is half worn away. I couldn't move the lever at first, and I didn't try to force it. I put some of the rinse solution in the body and let it sit for a few minutes, then flushed it out with water (my Brita filter creates a narrow stream about the size of the pen opening). Soon, chunks of dried ink started coming out. Gradually, the lever seems to work, but I can't tell the condition of the sac. It might be ruptured.

 

I've never attempted a pen repair before, so what should I be looking for? I've watched the YouTube videos for these pens, and have a general idea. My first concern is clearing all the junk out of the sac to determine if the pen is still intact.

 

 

And...I think the sac is ruptured. When water comes out of the lever as I fill from the body, I think that's my clue.

Edited August 5, 2014 by gweimer1

[OakIris]

Cool that you got one of the 'toaster top' jewel Esties - I only have one of these so far but really like the Art Deco look of them.

 

Chances are that you will need to replace the sac; ink was allowed to dry out in both it and the feed and I should think that, even if the sac is still intact, it would be easier to install a new sac than to try to clean it all out! This will also give you a chance to check the J-bar to make sure it is OK, not rusted out, etc. There is an excellent thread pinned at the top of this forum that gives you detailed information about the process: How to replace an Esterbrook sac There are various places from which you can purchase replacement sacs, shellac, basic tools, and you can also make/repurpose some things as tools if you need. Ron Zorn has a great article on his site about this: Cheap Tools

 

And, as you are aware, one of the really nice things about the Esterbrook J and dollar pens, is that there are tons of replacement nibs still to be found, including many NOS nibs, so if you don't like the nib, there are plenty of other choices. Here is a great resource that will give you an idea, if you haven't already seen it: Esterbrook Nib Chart.

 

Replacing ink sacs in a lever fill pen is one of the easiest repairs/restorations you can do; even I have managed it a time or two so I don't think you will have a problem. Lots of folks here to help if you run into one, though.

 

I hope you enjoy your new pen! (There isn't a secret handshake that I am aware of, but you will be joining a worldwide group of happy Estie pen owners and users, so a wide, happy grin will do!)

 

Holly

Edited August 5, 2014 by OakIris

[gweimer1]

Thanks. Yep...I've downloaded the nib chart. I also have a NOS 9550 nib on the way.

 

Looks like my next purchase will be repair items. I'll be studying the sac repair info and videos.

[OcalaFlGuy]

This will also give you a chance to check the J-bar to make sure it is OK, not rusted out, etc. There is an excellent thread pinned at the top of this forum that gives you detailed information about the process:

Holly

 

GW, generally you do not want to submerge or get wet the insides of the barrel unless Absolutely Necessary. First, get a pick/dental scaler/tweezers and slowly work at getting the pieces of busted sac/dried ink out. Use damp Q-tips to clean inside. Then get a bright light and shine inside looking at the J-bar, if it's Already pretty rusty, it needs to come out and be steel wooled clean. *The J-bar and lever ring (hidden) inside the barrel are spring steel and Will rust.* Since you've gotten the inside of your barrel wet now, you probably should pull the J-bar, steel wool it clean and be sure it's dried quickly with some warm air. Removing and replacing the J-bar isn't hard, but it sounds like you are ripping the pens guts out (when you aren't) and it Does stress the J-bar to remove and refit it. IF the J-bar is already pretty rusty or rust is imminent as in your case, it should come out (IMO) and be addressed.

 

A pair of 5.5" hemostats is your JimDandy #1 J-bar pulling tool.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[gweimer1]

Estie lesson #2. Thanks! I'm getting there.

[OcalaFlGuy]

(Not so much speaking To You GW as to everyone else who may read this.)

 

The Very First Estie repair/restore lesson, actually for pens in general, hasn't been stated Yet.

 

No matter How Obvious a solution appears, never, ever, never ever start Any pen restore/repair until you have thoroughly researched the proper, generally accept way to accomplish it. Be 100% sure of How it's Supposed to be done before you Actually start to do it.

 

IMO, we ALL are Already at a severe disadvantage when attempting a restore/repair we haven't done before because more often than not, we're only able to Read about how it should be done instead of actually Watching a pro do it in front of our eyes. The former option simply Is Not the optimal learning situation no matter How skilled the pro explainer or how accomplished they are at hearing their own fingers type.

 

To Not Completely familiarize yourself ahead of time using even the recognized Less optional method, places you at such risk, it may not be easy to recover from that.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

 

 

[gweimer1]

All of this is knowledge I'm soaking in, and all very much appreciated.

[Runnin_Ute]

Have fun doing the resto (my J was already done) and enjoy your Estie.

[gweimer1]

So, there is good news and bad news. The good news is that I didn't damage anything when I started. The bad news is that this pen needs a new sac, and probably has for a while. The good news is that I am going to take the plunge, and lose my virginity on repairing my first Estie. The sac was a brittle mess. It wasn't dried ink coming out of the pen in chunks, it was the sac. I got the rest of the pen apart, and cleaned up. I got the body apart with a stream of hot water over the end, and gently working the end off. Everything looks to be in good shape, at least what I can see. The nib cleaned up nicely, and the lever looks clean, and works pretty well.

 

 

[Gump]

Looks very nice, I think you'll find the sac replacement to be quite easy. Still a bit of work to do on the pen with the new j-bar, which needs the channel ground down so the level stays in place properly.

 

Adding a new round of Esties to my ebay watch list right now

[kidde]

I was lucky. I reached out to an FPN member who was only 35-40 miles away and he invited me over. We talked and worked on pens for a couple of hours. Bruce is dead on about watching it live versus reading about it. While I had studied and have the skill set I know that experienced hands beat books. Re-saccing Esties is straight forward. But experience tells if you're using to much heat and reminds you to keep a nib unit in the section while removing it. You can do it, just take advantage of all resources available. Good luck.

 

Paul

 

BTW Clayton (hooker56), thanks again.

[Brian Anderson]

One thing to add to Bruce's comment, if the lever spring gets wet, it will rust, and the resulting rusting will often cause the spring to expand and deform the barrel. Make good and sure the inside of the barrel, particularly the lever ring area is dry. Water will stay in there quite easily.

 

Use a size 16 sac, and make sure you account for the distance the section sits in the barrel when cutting. It's an easy thing to forget and you don't want a sac bunched up at the end of the barrel. I would also use talc, talc might also have the added benefit of absorbing any moisture inside the barrel.

 

Good Luck and have fun!

[gweimer1]

One thing to add to Bruce's comment, if the lever spring gets wet, it will rust, and the resulting rusting will often cause the spring to expand and deform the barrel. Make good and sure the inside of the barrel, particularly the lever ring area is dry. Water will stay in there quite easily.

 

Use a size 16 sac, and make sure you account for the distance the section sits in the barrel when cutting. It's an easy thing to forget and you don't want a sac bunched up at the end of the barrel. I would also use talc, talc might also have the added benefit of absorbing any moisture inside the barrel.

 

Good Luck and have fun!

 

I hit the cap and body with a short spritz of compressed air to dry it out and left the pieces out to dry. I've already made a list of what I need. If I can't get it locally, I have your website already bookmarked.

 

I may even get brave...I'm watching Bernard pliers for future use.

[Brian Anderson]

Compressed air, even better. You won't need Bernard pliers for esties really, but they sure do come in handy for other repairs!

[gweimer1]

An update for you. Well, I've done my first sac replacement. It went fairly easily, and if I don't have a pool of ink in the morning, I'll be confident. I also cleaned out the silver J, and tightened up the fitting with shellac. So, I now have 3 Esties. The blue transition (my first repair, and now sporting a 9556 nib), the silver J (with no iron oxide inside, and I straightened the clip) and the copper LJ (which was just fine as I got it). Thanks to Bruce and Brian for the tips, and the parts! I even lined up the nibs with the levers.

 

 

 

 

[Federalist Pens]

Congrats on your first repair!! Welcome to The Addiction!

 

[gweimer1]

So, repair #2 underway. I got a couple of black pens (turns out one is a J, the other a SJ) that both needed repair. The body on the SJ is warped from heat. Both of them needed cap jewels. One was missing, the other broken. The sac was gone on my repair pen, so I put a new one on. I bought a pair of tweezers, and then used my Dremel to grind away the sharp edges. So, I get the pen sac on, and decide to take the body jewel off the one for my replacement cap jewel. I put a little acetone on a Q-tip and gently went around the edge. I held the razor blade still and gently rotated the pen around the blade until the jewel came loose. It only took a minute and it came off clean....right off the body of my good pen! Soooooooo....I grabbed the donor body and did it one more time. It came off just as clean and easy. So, tomorrow, it will be time to assemble the pen and try to clean it up. Maybe I'll try to sell this one up here, if it turns out decently.

 

 

[OcalaFlGuy]

Ixnay on the Acetoneay.

 

Nasty stuff anywhere near plastic.

 

If you can get your hands on a yellow bottle of Ronson lighter fluid that says Naptha on it, and you Must douse the jewel area with Something, use that.

 

It will act as a low grade lubricant and won't mess the plastic up.

 

The biggest danger with razor blading a jewel out is two fold. Ok maybe one and a half fold. Mainly, going too fast, trying to raise it too fast and chipping the edge of the jewel off. Work the blade all the way under the jewel into the stem, then all the way around the stem, then work the blade up bit by bit until the jewel comes out. There IS a chance with a more Streaker earlier J that it Could have a screw in jewel. You WILL end up breaking that jewel trying to razor blade it out. If you get the blade in, and work it all the way around and the jewel doesn't raise Any, you may have a screw in one.

 

You gave me a full body tremor with the A word...

 

PS; I told you in the note you're getting to put some spit on the stem when you put the good jewel back in. I Wasn't kidding.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

Edited August 15, 2014 by OcalaFlGuy

[gweimer1]

Lesson #3. Thanks! I didn't soak it, and I wiped it off before starting. No screws in the jewels, and now my quandry is a cap jewel that just refuses to go in. I am "this" close to seating it.

I hold the blade steady when I pull the jewel, and slowly rotate the pen on the blade. I apply leverage with the pen, and not the blade itself.

[OcalaFlGuy]

It would have gone in if you'd have slobbered on it.

 

[EDIT] Take it easy pressing the jewel in. If you loosen the jewel retainer inside the barrel or cap end, you're screwed.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

Edited August 15, 2014 by OcalaFlGuy