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This Maybe For Ink Reviewers But How To Deal With Making Consecutive Staining Ink Reviews On Demonstrators


Algester

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Title says it all how to deal with consecutive reviews but you have the gut feeling it may stain your pen hardware (or converter)...

right now I'm using a TWSBI mini clear in EF (this is my only EF pen), F I have Muji fountain pen, Lamy nib F grade, and a Muji pocket fountain pen, TWSBI Micarta, Lamy 2000, for M I have Faber-Castell Ambition, Lamy M nib grade, Pilot Custom Heritage 91 SM, TWSBI Vac 700 in clear, B Lamy nib B grade, Italic Lamy 1.5 Italic, Flex I have 1 vintage flex which I can not identify (maybe a Waterman?) and an Ahab which has been given with the ease my flex mod

 

Lamy Pens are Vista and Logo along with the 2000

 

because I might have to do a review binge on my Sailor Souten, Tokiwa-Matsu and Shigure should I add J.Herbin Rouge Hematite?

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I would use a pen flush solution (if you make your own, use very dilute solutions of things like ammonia). Keep in mind that some inks are notorious for staining, and I typically have a pen for those inks (and don't try to use other inks in that pen).

Jeffery

In the Irish Channel of

New Orleans, LA

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Hi,

 

I agree with Member JefferyS to use a chemical stronger than water to cleanse pens thoroughly.

 

My experience with cleansing pens has lead to an 'escalating' series of treatments: starting with water, then DIY ammonia+surfactant, all the way up to use of technical pen cleaner and an ultrasonic bath. Even disassembling a pen to confirm results.

 

The results are not definitive, due to the pens having different plumbing & materials; and my use/handling of a pen and duration of exposure to ink is likely not the same as others. Also, real world practices are often such that even a 'reasonable' routine clean-up after using a simple aniline ink can leave enough inky residue to skew results - not everyone is scrupulous about pen cleansing before changing inks.

 

I use a three day exposure in a clear [CON70] converter as my 'standard' for staining, and a Waterman Phileas Demonstrator as one clean-up test bed. For Blue-centric inks, I often use a Pelikan M200, so I can swab the barrel internals to check for residue that chemical clean-up failed to remove.

 

You may find the Topic by our dear amberleadavis 'Best ink to use in between high maintenance inks (something lubricating?)' to be of value: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/251595-best-ink-to-use-in-between-high-maintenance-inks-something-lubricating/?p=2762032

 

Bye,

S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.

 

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I have ammonia water at home but havent bought a container for it yet along with distilled water unless Ionized water works...

or should I get a set Ink reviews only... huh like converters dedicated for C/C pens that I may have to use... I was thinking of picking up a TWSBI classic soon-ish in black for this one but I'm not sure on the idea YET I dunno I'm intent of having a small pen collection so my reviewing pens should be consistent

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Use an "Ink Between" that is high in detergent, or good for removing stains. May I recommend Rattler Red?

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

Create a Ghostly Avatar and I'll send you a letter. Check out some Ink comparisons: The Great PPS Comparison 

Don't know where to start?  Look at the Inky Topics O'day.  Then, see inks sorted by color: Blue Purple Brown Red Green Dark Green Orange Black Pinks Yellows Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal MURKY

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Use an "Ink Between" that is high in detergent, or good for removing stains. May I recommend Rattler Red?

 

I too have made a note of this.

I've been wanting to try some coloured inks but have been hesitant because of staining/contamination and read with interest your post linked by Sandy1 above.

Can I assume that the cleansing properties of Rattler Red also apply to pens with sacs?

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I have had luck with a totally disassembleable pen which is notorious for not staining, like the TWSBI demonstrator 580. I stay away from sac fillers for high staining. With the TWSBI, I can take the whole thing apart, flush out the piston very well with a blunt syringe (special attention to the collar of the opening. Then take the nib section: collar off and wash out, put the feed and nib together on a bulb (solder sucker from Radio Shack works perfectly) and just suck in water and squirt it out. I have never had one pen stain permanently yet. never had to use any special cleaner, just water. I have used just about every foul and dismal ink known to man and still my TWSBIs look great!


 It's for Yew!bastardchildlil.jpg

 

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Algester: you want deionized (DI) water

 

distilled water =(In almost all cases.) deionized water.

 

Yes technically it is not the same but the properties is close enough that even high end laboratories most often use deionized water instead of distilled water. become of the higher cost to keep double distilled water on stock allot of laboratories might not even have it but order it or prepare when it is needed for something extra sensitive and use deionized water for everything else.

 

In the and if your water aren't unusual hard (high in calcium and magnesium and other minerals) you should be safe to use regular tap water. For ink dilutions you might wont to boil it to make it sterile but other then that I wouldn't worry.

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Well for deionized water I think I will have a hard time looking for that so I'll use distilled water to make my pen cleaner but if rattler red works mmm I may have to check on my noodler's retailer I'm not dissing this but the 3 sailor inks I labeled are known to stain pen hardware... So I'm taking precaution in anycase

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Hi,

 

If I may, just one two three more suggestions:

 

If you notice staining after flushing with plain water, please do not let the pen dry-out. Rather, leave it filled with water or a 'clean-up ink' until it can be thoroughly cleansed.

 

Also, if you do formulate an ammonia clean-up solution, be sure to check the ammonia concentration, and that it is free of detergents.

 

In addition, the exposure time to the clean-up solution should be limited to 'overnight', as mentioned in this Topic 'Limit to Soaking?' by Member wbc : https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/229245-limit-to-soaking/?p=2453755

 

Bye,

S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.

 

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I've found that a drop of dish soap in warm water, flushing the pen with that for a while, then fill it and leave it soaking overnight typically works to get all the staining out from inks that have a low stain factor. Inks with a high stain factor take more work than that, but in my experience, most inks that have low grade staining tend to be fine with that routine.

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