Sealing Twsbi Micarta

[Algester]

Since I'm getting this pen in a month's time I'm prepping up what I need to expect I do know ink will stain on the material which I would presume is a Canvas Based material? (though I'm not sure what was used to seal the canvas) digging up on knife maker forums say Linseed Oil or Beeswax works... I'm not sure how I can Procure Beeswax in my country though... and other options? I can get Linseed Oil though

[Bemo]

I take the converter out of mine to fill the converter separately. That way I'm not dipping the section in the ink. So far, no staining. Linseed oil can take a while to dry and I would be afraid that the section would be sticky afterwards. Best of luck and tell us how it works out.

[Algester]

ohh yeah there's also the boiled Linseed Oil method I know somebody on the forums had her husband coat it in lacquer stain...

[GHigley]

My TWSBi Micarta section is getting dusty looking from cleanings. I'd like to darken/shine the entire pen and my middle-aged fingers don't have enough skin oil to keep the finish shiny and I've no linseed oil or beeswax on hand. Does anyone know if a light coat of olive oil would damage the material? Might WD-40 be better as it's lighter in weight? I've read on knife forums that some use it on the micarta handles, but I'd hate to damage the finish in any way. Any info. is appreciated.

[Mookli]

We use to work Micarta on a regular bases, and finish it with lacquer. When I make swag I use linseed oil, from my oil painting supplies. Bees wax would work too,

I would not recommend WD-40, It wont hurt it, not much will, but WD-40 gets sticky when drys. (nasty stuff)

Oils wont hurt it but will darken the color.

 

The material is Phenol formaldehyde resin with Dacron cloth. We call it Phenolic for short.

The Phenol polymers and fibers are compressed and heated causing a reaction that solidifies forming a composite.

Materials made in this manner are inherently resistant to solvents. and will take heat up to 300degF.

It was widely used in the electronic industry having good dielectric and mechanical properties. i.e circuit boards

In the 60ies better materials were developed, and the original Phenolic is not used for much any more.

Over time some other materials have adopted the name that are not Phenol based. Phenolic has a distinct odor.

 

Here is myTWSBI Micarta with home made Micarta blotter in the background.

 

http://www.maryhatay.com/Mark/Fountain-Pens/Mixed-Pens/i-3t9GDWL/0/XL/TWSBI%20Macarta-XL.jpg

[GHigley]

Thanks for all the great info., Mookli. I thought my pen was beginning to look tough, but it's got nothing on yours! ; )

[Oldparkerguy]

Somehow I don't mind the ink staining on my own Micartas (2 ), then there are ink stains on a number of things in my life. Even the stains are colorful.

 

ohh yeah there's also the boiled Linseed Oil method I know somebody on the forums had her husband coat it in lacquer stain...

Boiled linseed will dry much quicker than raw linseed (not recommended). Be certain to wipe and buff with lint free cloth after application of boiled linseed. Don't apply linseed to the threads of section or cap.

multiple very light applications preferred.

Dana

[A144]

Stay away from vegetable based oils like olive oil. They go rancid.

 

I'd pick up some food grade mineral oil from your local pharmacy (in with the laxatives) and use that. It's what chefs use on custom wood cutting boards.

[GHigley]

Stay away from vegetable based oils like olive oil. They go rancid.

 

I'd pick up some food grade mineral oil from your local pharmacy (in with the laxatives) and use that. It's what chefs use on custom wood cutting boards.

 

Thanks A144. Seems an excellent choice with multiple uses.

[AAAndrew]

A144 is right. What you want, if you're going to use an oil, is one that polymerizes. In other words, it hardens with curing. Boiled Linseed oil, tung oil and others used for wood finishes are good examples of the right oils. Vegetable oils, like olive oil, don't harden. At most they get tacky (sticky) and will go rancid and leave a bad smell on your pen. (Yikes!)

 

A wax coating is possible. You can use a commercial wax, like a furniture wax, or make your own, but be very careful around the nib and feed to not get ANY wax on it. Wax and liquid don't mix and if you should clog up any part of the feed with wax, that part of the feed is not going to feed anything.

 

I go ahead and dip my section in the ink when i fill it. So far I haven't had any trouble with discoloration, but then I use mainly non-staining inks, like Sailor Jentle Epinard and Grenade, and Diamine blues. (Asa Blue, Blue Velvet) I'm fine with some patina either from my hands or inks, but the stuff is pretty solid and I haven't gotten much patina yet. Maybe I need to use the pen more.

[GHigley]

I've avoided ink stains by syringe filling, but noticed the section was looking a little dusty after some cleanings. I prefer the finish darker and shinier, so thanks to the excellent advice given here, I'll have it looking how I like without it becoming a sticky stinker.