Yes, Another Sheaffer Vac Fill

[weltyj]

I won a couple of vac-fills on the 'bay, and have read a whole bunch of restoration info particularly from Ron Z and Richard Binder. They are both open nibs so I didn't have the triumph nib issue to deal with.

 

I've been working slowly and deliberately on the first, which I believe is a Lady, based on the size which closely matches Richard Binder's dimensions. As I received it (and was in the pen description), the head gasket was not attached to the plunger rod. There is no ball joint on the plunger rod -- it screws directly into the blind cap, which makes me suspect this might be an earlier version of the vac fill?

 

One problem I faced was not having a heat gun, which ironically, in the pacific northwest, I solved on a sunny day (the irony), and making a poor man's solar heater with aluminum foil in a parabolic shape set around the pen. The section unscrewed easily after warming ten minutes (I really doubt I got it more than 120 degrees F, I was keeping a close eye on things)

 

As you can see the furniture cleaned up nicely, and I cut a new head gasket from an ultralight bicycle intertube (.7 mm thick or about .028 inches, something I think Ron Z mentioned in a post). I have confirmed I can get a good suction using a tongue test -- putting the open barrel end on my tongue and pulling the plunger.

 

I'm about to tackle drilling out the packing unit washer as Ron Z describes next, and I really don't see it being a problem. I'll have to wait to finish the restoration until I get some styrene washers and O rings for the packing unit from David Nishimura.

 

This pen is pretty beat up -- someone used it a lot, or at least banged it around a lot. Anyone have any advice for shining up celluloid with lots of nicks and dents? I don't expect the nicks and dents to come out, just wondering how to shine the whole surface up "as is".

 

In the image at the top is the pen as I received it, at the bottom is the current state of things.

 

Cheers,

Jeff

Edited July 20, 2014 by weltyj

[weltyj]

I started drilling out the packing unit, and it is tougher than what I seemed like it should be based on Nathan Tardif's youtube video.

 

Would warming the body and packing unit be a good strategy to allow the drill to penetrate easier into the packing unit? I understand the caveats about not overheating celluloid...

[Ron Z]

The head gasket first. Thickness is not the only consideration. It should be 0.026" or as close as you can get it. The stuff I sell is 0.027" while most of the rubber on the market is 0.031" or 0.015". Material is a second - it should be a high grade Buna-N rubber if it's going to last. Third is the durometer or hardness of the rubber. It should be about 65 (hard rubber is 100, a rubber band is 35 or there abouts) Too soft and it will pull off around the head gasket nut when you pull the plunger back. The stuff that we use is a high grade Buna-N, 0.027, and about 65 durometer. I've checked pens that I did 5 and 6 years ago for their owners. The rubber, head gasket and 0-ring are holding up just fine, and the pens fill as well today as they did when they were restored. I like doing a repair just once.

 

Now, heating the packing unit when drilling. Not necessary, and may be counter productive. Better to make sure that your drill bit is sharp so that it cuts through instead of plowing into the material.

[weltyj]

Ron,

 

I thought I had the head gasket covered when I discovered the .7mm thickness. It is Buna-N, but I have no idea about the hardness. More research required on that topic, I will need to get some of your material if I can't be sure. I like being sure about things...

 

Good thought about the drill bit too -- this one has been used for many years, and probably is dulled. I have a newer one out in the garage -- I'll give it a try.

 

Thank you for the info!