Parker Blue Diamond Repair

[ShallowJam]

What is the preferred course of action for chipped blue diamonds on parker clips? This one specifically is a plastic filler parker vacumatic.

 

I have also noticed some silvery blemishes on the barrel and cap. are these safe to wet polish out? they dont seem especially deep but I haven't dealt with this material before.

Edited June 17, 2014 by ShallowJam

[Hooker56]

Testors Brand Model Paint. Color #1111. Shake well. Take off cap. Use a toothpick to dip into the paint that stuck to the cap. Carefully dot paint into the diamond with the toothpick until satisfied. Skill level: Easy because the raised edge of the diamond keeps the paint contained. The best part: if you mess it up somehow, just wipe it off and start over.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/191209051722?lpid=82

 

ShallowJam -The above was just a quick Google search. You can probably find it for less!

 

(I can't take credit for this. I saw it on another FPN post awhile back)

Edited June 18, 2014 by Hooker56

[FarmBoy]

Some use #1110. Others mix the two.

 

Parker didn't use either.

[Hooker56]

Some use #1110. Others mix the two.

 

Parker didn't use either.

 

Great observation, FarmBoy. What do you use?

 

IIRC, Parker used several proprietary shades during the Blue Diamond run.

Edited June 18, 2014 by Hooker56

[Flounder]

Humbrol enamel gloss 14 is what I used following the advice of "I can't find Testors in the UK" type threads. Everyone will have an application method that works best for them; I found a propelling pencil lead gave me better fine control than a toothpick, especially after shaping the lead to a slanted point by drawing some straight lines with it beforehand.

 

I agree with Hooker56, in that it is far easier to wipe off with meths and start again rather than try to correct mistakes. Get a small droplet on the end of the lead, encourange it to fill the corners of the diamond, wipe away to start afresh & repeat the process until satisfied. I used an upturned plastic tray, shimmed with pennies, to let it air dry without dust or lint getting to the paint.

 

ps the diamond stamping can be slightly imperfect to begin with!

 

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/1950%20Parker%2051%20English%20Black/th_Black51Vac028.jpg http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/1950%20Parker%2051%20English%20Black/th_Black51Vac031.jpg http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/1950%20Parker%2051%20English%20Black/th_BlueDiamondHumbrolGlossEnamel14001.jpg

[FarmBoy]

 

Great observation, FarmBoy. What do you use?

 

IIRC, Parker used several proprietary shades during the Blue Diamond run.

I got a bottle of blue paint that was found in a dumpster in Janseville outside the model shop. It has Parker spit on it. I chisel out a chunk, shape it to fit the diamond and then superglue it in place.

 

BUT,

 

If I'm busy, I use the bottle of Testors that I can find.

[Ron Z]

 

 

I got a bottle of blue paint....

You're bad.

 

I think that the question comes up because there is a myth circulating that the blue diamond is enamel, as in the fancy jewelery stuff that is fired and all that. It's not. It's just paint, and it's not a specific color temperature. There are a variety of shades of blue out there, which makes me think that Parker just used blue paint but didn't worry about variations in shade.

 

Either Testors color, or a blend of the two will work. Thin it out a bit though so that it flows into the corners. You can use Naphtha to help it dry a bit faster. Apply with a 00 (as in really thin) brush, let it dry and burnish the edges of the diamond with a round toothpick.

[Hooker56]

I think all of the EPA altered Cali air is drying out Todd's brain. (everyone knows that the Zombie Apocalypse will start in San Francisco).

 

Thank you, Ron, it's good to know that there isn't any 60 year old petrified genuine Parker paint that can be flaked off and pulverized and reconstituted with lacquer thinner to restore my Blue Diamonds to original condition.

 

Founder- The pencil idea is a very good one considering my hamfisted attempts at wielding a brush.

 

Finally- Thank you ShallowJam for wandering with us through the whimsical world of FPN long enough to get some really great answers!

[penmanila]

I use a paper clip to put a drop of Testor's into the diamond.

[Hooker56]

 

Top Photo is a Diamond I painted using a toothpick

 

Bottom Photo is one that Ernesto Soler did for me

[ShallowJam]

I went by the local crafts store today and picked up some blue enamel paint. it looks about right, I'll have to give it a shot tomorrow to see how it matches.

 

Often in the world of fountain pen restoration, things have to be 'just so' - I'm glad this isn't one of those occasions.

[Ray-Vigo]

It doesn't take much paint. I've found the toothpick method works fine. I use Testors as well- decent stuff.

[Garageboy]

Is Testors a high quality paint (I mean, it's "model" paint)

Is there a "nicer" quality equivalent?

[tmenyc]

As a long-time painter of model cars (yikes, a different hobby!), I have seen the use of enamels almost disappear, because they are thick and tend to fill corners and hide detail. Even thinned with enamel or lacquer thinner, which makes them flow better, when the thinner gasses out the enamel is still thicker than good quality acrylic or lacquer paints. In this case, filling in is exactly what you want to do, so enamel is the thing. Because the high end model hobbies have moved on from enamel, there aren't any good ones out there. It's still Testors and Humbrol. If you get a little too much on the edge of the diamond, dip a toothpick in your thinner and lightly rub it off the edge, using the edge of the pick, not the point.

On the other hand, you could probably use a thicker Tamiya acrylic paint and be Ok. Don't use a tube acrylic, since it probably won't bond to the metal underneath and is water soluble. Don't use any of the newer airbrush-only acrylics, they're great paints, but too thin for this. Also don't use any of the bottled lacquers, they're much too thin and cannot be thickened. They're also plenty toxic; I spray lacquers through an airbrush, under a fume hood.

 

Tim

[FarmBoy]

Is Testors a high quality paint (I mean, it's "model" paint)

Is there a "nicer" quality equivalent?

I can supply an extremely expensive blue enamel that will work almost as well as the Testors if anyone is interested.

[Garageboy]

Ah, I was hoping there'd be a fancy BASF/Dupont product

[tmenyc]

There is! But you'd have to buy a gallon of it. Let's see, at a drop per pen ...

 

Tim