Jump to content






Dearest Friends and Visitors of the Fountain Pen Network,
We have started implementing the changes we promised here: Upcoming Changes To FPN
Please do read the linked message above.









Photo

Best Way To Disasemble Pelikan Nib/feed/ring


  • Please log in to reply
13 replies to this topic

#1 markh

markh

    Shaded Writing

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 367 posts

Posted 19 April 2014 - 06:14

I have a modern Pelikan, and would like to take apart the nib unit - nib/feed/ring.

 

I remember in the past being able to use two thumbnails to push down the ring with the back of the feed on a flat surface.

 

Maybe my fingers are weaker, or nails thinner - but I don't seem to be able to do this with this nib/feed/ring

 

I could use a knockout block. Or maybe work on wiggling out the nib first. Or some other way...

 

What's the best way??

 

 

thnx,

 

 

.



#2 hari317

hari317

    Classic

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,089 posts
  • Location:Mumbai, INDIA
  • Flag:

Posted 19 April 2014 - 06:42

 

 

 

 

.

I could use a knockout block. 

^^

 

but the problem is that the OD of the ring is slightly smaller than the nib shoulder width. so the best way is that a temporary nut with matching threads for nib unit has to be prepared, the nib unit threaded into it and then use the knock out block as usual.

 

However, depending on the knockout block you have, you may not need to do it the proper way and the nib will pass the block's hole without any damage with the hole small enough to retain the collar ring so you can directly knock it out. I can do this easily on my Tryphon sold knock out block for example...


Edited by hari317, 19 April 2014 - 06:55.


#3 markh

markh

    Shaded Writing

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 367 posts

Posted 19 April 2014 - 18:34

^^

 

but the problem is that the OD of the ring is slightly smaller than the nib shoulder width. so the best way is that a temporary nut with matching threads for nib unit has to be prepared, the nib unit threaded into it and then use the knock out block as usual.

 

However, depending on the knockout block you have, you may not need to do it the proper way and the nib will pass the block's hole without any damage with the hole small enough to retain the collar ring so you can directly knock it out. I can do this easily on my Tryphon sold knock out block for example...

 

 

Any idea what the correct nut threading is? I would guess metric, which is hard to get in the US, but a non-metric might fit.

 

 

thnx,

 

 

.



#4 watch_art

watch_art

    Pen Making Madness

  • Moderators

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,639 posts
  • Location:hot springs, arkansas, usa
  • Flag:

Posted 19 April 2014 - 18:36

They're all 36tpi.


fpn_1405136194__fpn_1404594699__sg_tag.j sigpic14481_1.gif vanness.jpg?t=1321916122


#5 carlos.q

carlos.q

    Collectors Item

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,143 posts
  • Location:On a hill in Puerto Rico
  • Flag:

Posted 19 April 2014 - 18:46

I'm guessing "tpi" is "turns per inch"?  :unsure:



#6 watch_art

watch_art

    Pen Making Madness

  • Moderators

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,639 posts
  • Location:hot springs, arkansas, usa
  • Flag:

Posted 19 April 2014 - 18:54

threads per inch


fpn_1405136194__fpn_1404594699__sg_tag.j sigpic14481_1.gif vanness.jpg?t=1321916122


#7 carlos.q

carlos.q

    Collectors Item

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,143 posts
  • Location:On a hill in Puerto Rico
  • Flag:

Posted 19 April 2014 - 18:57

threads per inch

Thank you! My ignorance in this matter is evidently astounding.  :rolleyes:


Edited by carlos.q, 19 April 2014 - 18:57.


#8 DrCodfish

DrCodfish

    neophyte

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 902 posts
  • Flag:

Posted 20 April 2014 - 05:25

I can't help but ask why you want to take it apart?  This sort of thing seems to me similar to when the QB goes back for a pass:  Any of four things can result, three of which are bad.  So, ... why risk it?



#9 markh

markh

    Shaded Writing

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 367 posts

Posted 20 April 2014 - 06:15

I can't help but ask why you want to take it apart?  This sort of thing seems to me similar to when the QB goes back for a pass:  Any of four things can result, three of which are bad.  So, ... why risk it?

 

The pen had flow problems.

 

In the end, I didn't take it apart. I followed another post (thanks Ron), and conformed the feed and nib using almost boiling water -  worked great!

 

AND I learned a new skill.... I have occasionally needed to better fit feed to nib. With ebonite its fairly easy and very forgiving, with a temperature controlled heat gun. With plastic feeds, I could do it, but the feed fins would always slightly bend and show the deformation.

 

Tried hot water - worked great, feed doesn't show anything.

 

I've taken Pelikan feed/nibs/rings apart in the past. And put them back together. It's not that hard, I was just looking for suggestions to make it easier.

 

.



#10 hari317

hari317

    Classic

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,089 posts
  • Location:Mumbai, INDIA
  • Flag:

Posted 20 April 2014 - 10:30

 

The pen had flow problems.

 

In the end, I didn't take it apart. I followed another post (thanks Ron), and conformed the feed and nib using almost boiling water -  worked great!

 

AND I learned a new skill.... I have occasionally needed to better fit feed to nib. With ebonite its fairly easy and very forgiving, with a temperature controlled heat gun. With plastic feeds, I could do it, but the feed fins would always slightly bend and show the deformation.

 

Tried hot water - worked great, feed doesn't show anything.

 

I've taken Pelikan feed/nibs/rings apart in the past. And put them back together. It's not that hard, I was just looking for suggestions to make it easier.

 

.

congratulations on fixing the problem. BTW which model pelikan was it?



#11 markh

markh

    Shaded Writing

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 367 posts

Posted 20 April 2014 - 18:14

congratulations on fixing the problem. BTW which model pelikan was it?

 

The new 101 lizard. I plan on a short review - love the pen, but the nib and feed are disasters, and needed a complete re-work...



#12 prf5

prf5

    Name That Tune

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 231 posts
  • Location:Connecticut
  • Flag:

Posted 20 April 2014 - 21:45

 

The pen had flow problems. In the end, I didn't take it apart. I followed another post (thanks Ron), and conformed the feed and nib using almost boiling water -  worked great! 

Tried hot water - worked great, feed doesn't show anything.

.

 

I'd appreciate some additional information: what kind of flow problem?; a link to Ron's post (whoever he is). Thanks.



#13 markh

markh

    Shaded Writing

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 367 posts

Posted 21 April 2014 - 00:32

 

I'd appreciate some additional information: what kind of flow problem?; a link to Ron's post (whoever he is). Thanks.

 

Ron's post is in this thread:

http://www.fountainp...ds-be-heat-set/

 

I will eventually get around to writing a more thorough review of the pen...

 

 

.



#14 AustinMalone1999

AustinMalone1999

    Rare

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 138 posts
  • Flag:

Posted 15 May 2014 - 02:49

Granted I am very clumsy, but that just seems like a very risky affair. I would not bother. I would like a Pelikan Nib on a Noodler's Pen though.