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#6 Nibs: What Will They Fit?


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#21 Waski_the_Squirrel

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Posted 11 April 2014 - 01:06

I've found the Noodler's pens quite easy to get along with. I just don't seem to have the trouble with them that others talk about. Mine just work. I've put Goulet nibs in a few of them, and it adds a unique quality.

 

I tried the Goulet nibs in a Jinhao 450 and it did not fit well and did not write well. I wanted to heat set the feet, but it's a plastic feed, so I wasn't going to try that!

 

The Edison pens are built with a nib that is part of a screw-in unit that consists of feed and nib. Maybe someone braver than I has tried swapping out the nibs in this unit? I don't see how without risking damage.


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#22 Ted A

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Posted 11 April 2014 - 03:56

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#23 Water Ouzel

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Posted 11 April 2014 - 05:31

Hi, all:

 

Grateful for the replies and the interesting info on Noodler's pens.  That said, the original question was about *other* pens that the Goulet's #6 nibs will fit.

 

We know they'll fit: 

  • Noodler's pens
  • Several different Edisons
  • Several Monteverdes
  • Some Jinhao models.

​What else will take a #6 without surgery?

Twsbi Vac 700.



#24 grainweevil

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Posted 11 April 2014 - 10:12

On the basis that the Platinum Century #3776 nib fits a TWSBI Vac 700, I will take a guess that a #6 nib will fit the Platinum. Although as the nib is the best bit, there's very little to no reason to do so, but fwiw...

 

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#25 WirsPlm

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 00:25

I hear that Nemosine pens (Singularity and Fission are the ones I know) take #6 nibs but I haven't confirmed that myself yet.

#26 KBeezie

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 01:16

I hear that Nemosine pens (Singularity and Fission are the ones I know) take #6 nibs but I haven't confirmed that myself yet.

 

I've confirmed it in post #2. I've used the Nemosine 0.7 Stub in my other pens, as well as using a Jinhao, Monteverde and Goulet #6 nibs in the Singularity. 

 

Shown here with a 2-tone Jinhao Nib from a X450. 

frakensine.jpg


Edited by KBeezie, 12 April 2014 - 01:17.


#27 tomgartin

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 03:14

 

I've confirmed it in post #2. I've used the Nemosine 0.7 Stub in my other pens, as well as using a Jinhao, Monteverde and Goulet #6 nibs in the Singularity. 

 

Shown here with a 2-tone Jinhao Nib from a X450. 

frakensine.jpg

 

How do you make a cheap pen look so good?


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Currently trying to sell a Pelikan M400 White Tortoise and a NIB Lamy 2000. PM if you're interested.  :)


#28 KBeezie

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 04:00

 

How do you make a cheap pen look so good?

 

The photography aspect of it? 



#29 tomgartin

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 04:12

 

The photography aspect of it? 

 

Yeah. I mean, first of all, how do you get it so clean...no fingerprints, ink nano-drops, or even dust? Second, what are your light sources?


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Currently trying to sell a Pelikan M400 White Tortoise and a NIB Lamy 2000. PM if you're interested.  :)


#30 KBeezie

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 04:20

 

Yeah. I mean, first of all, how do you get it so clean...no fingerprints, ink nano-drops, or even dust? Second, what are your light sources?

 

Clean? Well... some micro-fibre cloths help, and I'm not generally all that oily. Far as little specs of dust... Photoshop. But usually there's not more than say 7 or 8 specs on a barrel possibly. There were no tiny ink drops in the cap at the time of that picture. Even right now there's no little 'nano-drops' of ink in the pen. But photoshop usually helps for the dust, maybe a small smudge of fingerprint, or excess ink on the nib, or in the event of cosmetic-representation-only (ie: I wouldn't do this for say sales, it always comes back to you), remove scratches etc. 

 

Secondly, typically it's either one or both of my Photogenic Powerlight 750, with an umbrella style (32 inch) bounce softboxes. Usually one in front off to the side, and one behind for shadow fill. Sometimes I'll have a large piece of white cardboard held up to the right side to bounce a little bit of light into some of the nooks, or to soften the darkest areas of the picture. 

 

Thirdly, Circular Polarizer helps immensely for glare/reflection control, especially if on top of reflective marble (black and white marble shown below). 

posted.jpg

1.jpg

Edit: Original Shot (from Raw file), prior to any post-processing

P4110453_orig.jpg


Edited by KBeezie, 12 April 2014 - 04:24.


#31 Guest_Ray Cornett_*

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 04:24

I avoid fingerprints on mine by placing them down for shooting while holding them with the cloth I just polished them with. But sometimes you just have to use Photoshop.



#32 KBeezie

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 04:26

I avoid fingerprints on mine by placing them down for shooting while holding them with the cloth I just polished them with. But sometimes you just have to use Photoshop.

 

I avoid fingerprints with a passion, they're a pain in the butt even with photoshop. Dust on the other hand isn't so bad. But yea wipe it down pretty good, and set it down within the cloth. Sometimes it leaves dust behind, but oils and fingerprints are worse to deal with. 



#33 tomgartin

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 04:26

Nice! Thanks for letting us in on your secrets.

 

To everyone else, sorry for hijacking the thread--I just had to ask  :blush:


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Currently trying to sell a Pelikan M400 White Tortoise and a NIB Lamy 2000. PM if you're interested.  :)


#34 KBeezie

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 04:29

Nice! Thanks for letting us in on your secrets.

 

To everyone else, sorry for hijacking the thread--I just had to ask  :blush:

 

:P Not much of a secret, just typical stuff you learn as a professional photographer (And the stuff like PS, polarizers, etc, is pretty commonplace in product photography). Also I could tell you how to do it, but actually being able to replicate it could yeild vastly different results. 

 

Plus my Exif are intact on all those images, should be able to open them up in Photoshop or an EXIF viewer and see my shutter, ISO, aperture, metering, etc settings. (which most of the time under the strobes is 1/200th @ f/8, with the front strobe typically being 1/4th power, and rear strobe when I use it as 1/8th). 

 

In a pinch you can just dumb it down with a light tent (typically 35-50 dollars, good for people who are camera illiterate for just all around flat lighting, but I like *some* shadows). 

 

By the way having a TRUE lifesize macro lens helps (40 year old Manual-Focus Tamron SP 90mm f/2.8 1:1 Lifesize Macro, Adaptall mount, adapted to my Olympus E-P3 via a Adaptall-to-Micro4/3 adapter). 

 

snorkel.jpg

1.jpg


Edited by KBeezie, 12 April 2014 - 04:32.




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