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Ink "leaking" From Side Of Carene Nib


Harlequin

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I am wondering if it is normal for ink to "leak" from the sides of a Carene nib. It's not actually leaking, but that's the best term I could think of. When I lay the pen down and it rolls onto its side so that the just the side of the nib (the very thin strips at the back of the nib, where it meets the section, the "arms of the U" so to speak) is touching the paper, the effect is the same thing happens as if I were to hold the nib down on the paper- an ink spot quickly grows. It seems to me that it shouldn't do that, but I've never used a Carene before, so I figured I'd ask.

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Actually it's a common sense of any inlaid nib, the temperature of your finger dilate the gap between metal and plastic and bleed out. Once you place your finger a little higher and avoid the junction of nib and plastic. No more troubles.

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In another topic we were calling them 'horns' but I suppose we should call them bow waves which is more appropriate considering their background.

 

Anyway this was discussed in another topic where I suggested the cause was poor or lack of adhesive between the parts. I even put up pictures of the disassembled parts showing what should be there. If there is little adhesive then the ink can travel up the wave.

 

Now where is it.... :blush:

 

ahhh here is one,

 

and then the topic link

 

fpn_1376713628__dscn0331.jpg

Edited by Force
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I took some pics of the spot I am talking about. Maybe they can help the experts here let me know what would be best to do in terms of solving this. Is that gap near the nib also abnormal?

 

post-95904-0-10143000-1377120830_thumb.jpg

 

post-95904-0-43498800-1377120831.jpg

 

post-95904-0-41817800-1377120832.jpg

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Auch... I had something like that happen to a nail once. That was quite painful.

 

Your Carene is thinking the same about it, it's even crying bitter tears....

 

 

No that is not how it should look. Time for some TLC for your poor Carene.

 

D.ick

~

KEEP SAFE, WEAR A MASK, KEEP A DISTANCE.

Freedom exists by virtue of self limitation.

~

 

 

 

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Since it is inlaid, it is not something that I could do on my own, is it (if I knew what to do, that is)?

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Ah, but we have a Force to be reckoned with....

 

He has removed some of these nibs and apparently got them working again (see his Ivory and Crimson projects)

Perhaps he can tell how to prceed?

 

 

D.ick

~

KEEP SAFE, WEAR A MASK, KEEP A DISTANCE.

Freedom exists by virtue of self limitation.

~

 

 

 

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Having looked at a few of my pens they do vary but your nib is very high on the feed and taking into account the angle of the picture I would think it is not touching the feed just back from the tip. It looks to need removal, a clean out the old adhesive and refitting with new adhesive.

 

If you are non mechanical or not adept with hands I would not advise this job.

 

Please be aware I have only removed nibs that were so badly damaged any further dinks during removal were irrelevant. Also note when attempting to pull the nib there is little to get a grip on other than just behind the very tip.

 

I started by sliding a scalpel blade under the 'horns' to break them away from the adhesive, working both sides a little at a time. Great care is needed as any slip and the plastic is easily marked. The horns cannot lift very far because of their curved shape and the slot in which the nib is held. Once they can be seen to be lifting very slightly then gripping just behind the tip with a small pair of tapered flat nose plies (tips protected with tape) and pull the nib gently. Maybe revisiting the horns with the scalpel a few times between pulls.

 

Also note as the nib moves forward it has to climb over the feed by nature of both shapes. In fact I came to the conclusion, after the Crimson work, that, in the factory, the nibs are assemled into the grip before the feeds are inserted. Reversing this is not simple because the the threaded insert (gold plated ring assembly) can be very tightly made.

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Assuming I got that far, is there a specific kind of adhesive that must be used? Or I guess the better question is are there specific types that must be avoided?

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Do you think that Waterman would be of any help? I am wondering if this would be covered under a warranty of some kind, since it would almost have to be viewed as a defect in workmanship. I am not the original owner though.

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I don'tt know if that is a good thing or bad thing, lol. Do you happen to know if it is a significant cost, like with MB?

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They will assess the condition and base their action on that. They will email you the result of the assessment along with the costs (if any) involved together with a declaration document to sign. They do not repair sections but will replace it in total. The declaration must be completed before they take any action. Also look for a tick box asking it the parts have sentimental value...tick it....and you should get any part back they remove. I did when I had a cap replaced and got the old cap back. It may be different for sections though.

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Going through some sections this one is similar though not quite as high,

 

fpn_1377344999__dscn0105.jpg

 

 

As far as I can see/tell the 'horns' have a good amount of adhesive applied.

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Going through some sections this one is similar though not quite as high,

 

 

 

 

As far as I can see/tell the 'horns' have a good amount of adhesive applied.

does the nib touch the feed's top surface at all on this one?

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does the nib touch the feed's top surface at all on this one?

I think the nib makes contact further back....at the cross point in the head on picture, which is the rear hump on the side shot.

 

fpn_1377346872__dscn9060.jpg

 

fpn_1377346960__dscn9059.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Hello all: I have a Prussian Blue Carene, medium nib which has an uncertain flow and a nib almost as high as the one Harlequin has. I've force-flushed the assembly and run this through an ultrasonic twice, thinking the feed was clogged with the pesky blue ink they use at the factory to test. It seemed to have cleaned up a bit but still skips. Lastly, the tines appear to be aligned under 15X magnification but further "thumb" alignment in the manner of Mottishaw/Binder/Zorn is beyond my skill level as the wings have no space for thumbnails.

 

Question:

In order to further clean the feed/collector and inspect the channel for obstructions, can it be backed out and removed from the grip without fooling with the nib? Assuming it's possible, could the nib then be bent downward slightly (without the feed present) and the tines then be adjusted without causing a disaster? Any thoughts would be welcome. I felt the need to order a replacement from Lewertowski (Penseller from France) which works perfectly but I'd like the original as a working, functional back-up.

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It is impossible to remove the feed from the grip with the nib in place. First, there is nothing to get hold of and second, the forward part of the feed fits up into the nib thus preventing rearward travel with it in place.

 

Very strong nails would be required to lift the wings. A thin stiff plastic tool is easier...I must make one for myself. Not forgetting they are bonded down to start with.

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