M800 M1000 Piston Filler Unit: Under The Hood.

[hari317]

Background:

I received a pre 97 M800 old style in the mail last week. Unfortunately, the Piston shaft was damaged in that pen. After much searching I was able to buy the part from a German source, the cost of which was gracefully reimbursed by the seller. The part is still in the mail. In the meanwhile, FPNer Gambosen happened to have a broken M800 barrel which he agreed to donate to me so that I could remove the part and use it in my pen. I thought this was a good chance to document the procedure, it might be useful to someone else as well.

 

The Pelikan piston filler exploded view:

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8307.jpg

 

The terminology is mine. I am not sure what Pelikan calls the parts.

 

Disassembly:

The piston filler unit on the M800 and the M1000 and a few other modern Pelikans feature a threaded-in construction. The filler is screwed into the barrel using left hand threads. The filler unit has two flat slots to engage a 7mm spanner, the spanner reduced in thickness to 0.8mm is a suitable tool.

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8327.jpg

 

Engage the spanner to the slots, tighten the knob down on the spanner and move the spanner Clockwise(CW) to unscrew the filler unit from the barrel.

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8324.jpg

 

Once the filler is out, unscrew the knob fully and separate it from the connector. So the parts in hand will be the piston shaft with the seal at the end, the brass connector, the hollow nut and the filler knob.

 

Maintenance will usually involve only cleaning the parts and applying lubricant to the piston seal.

 

In order to set the piston stroke in a hassle free way without trial and error, it is better to separate the anti-rotation bush from the connector. You can do the stroke adjustment even without removing this bush, but with the bush removed, anyone with even little experience should be able to set the stroke correctly in the first attempt. The bush is press fitted into the connector.

 

The bush removal can be done either by knocking it out or gently prying it out with a fingernail. I usually knock it out.

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8314.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8313.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8310.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8311.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8312.jpg

 

The hollow nut has slots at the bottom which engage with the corresponding slots inside the filler knob.

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8309.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8308.jpg

 

Reassembly:

 

Engage the hollow nut into the filler knob and screw the knob onto the connector fully.

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8315.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8316.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8317.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8318.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8319.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8320.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8321.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8322.jpg

 

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8323.jpg

 

The following pic shows what a good piston shaft should look like:

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn307/hari-b/Pelikan%20Piston%20Filler/IMG_8287.jpg

 

The lower part is the good one given to me by Gambosen.

 

I hope you find this useful.

 

Best

Hari

Edited March 31, 2013 by hari317

[MadAmos]

Nice job on this Hari I found the pictures particularly clear and helpful. :thumbup:

Edited March 31, 2013 by MadAmos

[watch_art]

Very useful - thanks for posting.

[nm4]

Great thread - thank you Hari!

 

-NM

[BMG]

Many thanks for this, Hari.

[Gilberto Castaneda]

You did it again Hari.

Congratulations for your skills.

 

Cheers,

[Frank C]

That was very helpful. I have had a few Pelikans where the brass connector started backing out of the pen barrel. I sent them back to Pelikan for repair, but next time I'll try it myself. I've practiced on a TWSBI 540 which has a similar mechanism. The TWSBI wrench is even 7mm. Thanks for the photos and advice.

[chris burton]

Hari,

 

Great post. You really do a service to the pen community with some of the stuff you do. You ought to .pdf them for posterity.

[kwk1]

Nice Hari, thanks for doing this.

[gambosen]

Good to see that the barrel is coming to some use after sitting in my drawer for years. Very good pictures and step by step instructions.

[hari317]

Good to see that the barrel is coming to some use after sitting in my drawer for years. Very good pictures and step by step instructions.

 

Thank you all for the kind comments.

[Gilberto Castaneda]

Can this thread be pinned?

[*MariO*]

@hari317

 

Thanks for your time, very informative thread indeed.

 

Which parts need to be lubricated? Eg. Piston seal and shaft only?

[alexander_k]

Excellent! I just hope I'll never need to follow this process.

[hari317]

Which parts need to be lubricated? Eg. Piston seal and shaft only?

Just the piston seal.

[enricof]

Hari, you're a great.

 

The tip about the anti-rotation bush alone is worth pinning this thread (took me half an hour to adjust the stroke on my M1000 - eventually I understand how they do it in production...). I saved your post to pdf, just in case...

[Abhik]

Hari, excellent documentation! I can also see that " glass is not half empty, it is half full too!"

This post as well worth to be pinned as Enricof has mentioned.

Best

A

[hari317]

Hari, you're a great.

 

The tip about the anti-rotation bush alone is worth pinning this thread (took me half an hour to adjust the stroke on my M1000 - eventually I understand how they do it in production...). I saved your post to pdf, just in case...

 

 

Hari, excellent documentation! I can also see that " glass is not half empty, it is half full too!"

This post as well worth to be pinned as Enricof has mentioned.

Best

A

 

Thank you friends. I feel encouraged to do more labour on these mechanical aspects threads when I hear your positive comments. Regarding pinning, I think you should send a PM to the moderator of this forum(Bill Dodson), that is what I did to get the "pf mark" thread pinned.

 

Best

Hari

[pelman]

Brilliant Hari. Just a great read.

[dduran]

Hi Hari!

 

Thanks for the tutorial, if I may add though. I noticed that there's a piece of brass still showing through. M800s are my main collection and I've double-checked all of them to see that the grip is flushed on the body.. I've attached some photos to show I mean.

 

My suggestion is:

1) Unscrew the piston fully

2) Insert the wrench

3) Try to close the piston until you hit the wrench

4) Tighten the wrench/piston assembly further

5) Remove the wrench and see if everything's perfect now

 

I use TWSBI wrenches which is fairly thin so I usually don't encounter any problems with step (3)..

 

This usually happens when the piston is over-extended that you can't properly screw the whole assembly to the body. Though the first part of your tutorial is great and I've learned something new with it