Dearest Friends and Visitors of the Fountain Pen Network,
We have started implementing the changes we promised here: Upcoming Changes To FPN Please do read the linked message above.
Posted 06 February 2013 - 16:29
Posted 06 February 2013 - 18:39
Note the use of Micromesh 10000 there. Other people may suggest more readily available things. Personally, I think cheaping out on the abrasives is a waste of time and energy and not likely to save enough money to matter. Just get the stuff that works properly and don't look back. I buy my smoothing supplies from richardspens.com. Probably some of the other nibmeisters and repairmen also sell the fine micromesh grits that are needed.
Edited by mhosea, 06 February 2013 - 22:08.
I know my id is "mhosea", but you can call me Mike. It's an old Unix thing.
Posted 07 February 2013 - 04:00
technique, but the Micromesh 10000 cannot be undone.
Do let us know how things progress, please.
Auf freiem Grund mit freiem Volke stehn.
Zum Augenblicke dürft ich sagen:
Verweile doch, du bist so schön !
Posted 07 February 2013 - 13:25
I won't try to write the textbook on nib alignment here on FPN, but there are threads about it and atticles on web sites like richardspens.com that will tell and show you what it should look like before you begin smoothing.
Good luck. Nib adjustment and smoothing are skills that are essential to getting the full enjoyment from this hobby. These skills will also save you a lot of money and aggravation, as you will be able to get most pens to write to your satisfaction without having to send them away.
The usual cautions apply, though. I suggest that you learn and try these techniques on inexpensive pens, so that if you wreck one it is no great loss.
Posted 07 February 2013 - 14:00
First, before doing ANY smoothing, take a close look at the tines of the nib. They need to be properly aligned (even height) and the slit needs to be the proper width before you start smoothing.
Posted 07 February 2013 - 14:42
Then think about micromesh, starting at 8000 grit with repetitions of no more than about 15 figure 8's, at a time, going up to 10,000 to 12,000 grit until you are happy with the smoothness. Keep in mind, ice skating like smoothness may not give you enough feedback to control your handwriting on smoother paper, for example rhodia paper.
My two best writers. .......... .........I call this one Günter. ......... I call this one Michael Clarke Duncan.
.........I call this one Günter. ......... I call this one Michael Clarke Duncan.
Posted 09 February 2013 - 07:24
Obviously scratchy nibs are a universal problem, but how do I smooth the nib on a Parker 21 without using a belt sander? And without ruining the nib tip? TIA.
Usually two steps: make sure that the tines are precisely aligned, then smooth the nib if it still requires it using micromesh sanding.
A third step sometimes applies: if the ink flow is too dry, it can be increased and will contribute its part to smooth writing.
Posted 10 February 2013 - 22:10