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No Nonsense Obliques Nibs


barleycorn

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When I purchased some NO NONSENSE calligraphy pens, I decided to try to modify the used set of nibs to 15 degree oblique. I started with the broad at a 30 degree angle - too much- so I reduced closer to 15. In the picture is the medium and broad oblique next to a standard italic. The writing sample shows the medium and broad italic in black and the medium and broad oblique in blue. At the bottom the hatching demonstrates that the oblique angled nibs show line variation almost horizontally while the italic nibs show vertical variation.

 

When lettering the oblique nib is held like a normal pen compared to the italic nib which would be held at a 30 degree angle. This might explain the difference. To write smoothly the oblique nib has to be "held flat" on the paper or else the edges get caught.

Edited by barleycorn
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I have more of these cheap Sheaffer sets than I need so I've experimented with them myself. I've spent a bit of effort to round off the edges of the slanted cut and to file off a nice bevel the back of the nib.

The writing experience is, umm, less than satisfying but I was not expecting much in the way of performance. Too much care and patience are required to avoid digging into the paper so the modified nibs have become even more specialized for calligraphy--which I do not do.

Someday I will figure out how to get photos up with my post.

Lovely writing samples, I bow to your skill and flourish.

I ride a recumbent, I play go, I use Macintosh so of course I use a fountain pen.

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Thank you for the compliment. The oblique nib works well writing UNCIAL. I may post a sample soon. While in school some 30 years ago, I had a NN calligraphy set. I started up again about 4 years ago which awoke my interest in pens...well we know what happens once the sickness takes over.

My interest was to try an oblique nib since that is the one targa nib I do not have, now I have located a calligraphy set and a broad nib. Also if I damaged a nib in the process, no great loss since I have a set of unused nibs. I bought a package of 320/400/600/800 autobody paper from a store and was surprised how easily the metal filed off. When I presented my unhandy work at the Pen Club, I was given some 2400/4000/6000 paper to polish the edge. So I bought a pack of 2000 paper today to smooth the F/M nibs so they are not as scratchy. The result with the broad nib does not feel much different from the italic I have with a deluxe set.

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Cool.

I used an Arkasas combination stone to get the basic shape and an ultrfine Japanese stone to help dress the edges. But I know an auto paint shop where I can get some emory cloth.

I ride a recumbent, I play go, I use Macintosh so of course I use a fountain pen.

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You may have seen this. How to hand-grind an oblique or stub:

 

I enjoy the contact with other pen enthusiasts. Through correspondence with Ludwig Tan I am pleased to share with you his article on Grinding Your Own Nibs.

 

It confirms for me that grinding nibs is not something I will take up, but it is an interesting article and brings to mind the skill associated with fountain pens. May we all hope this skills are not totally lost.

 

The article was published in the journal of the Society for Italic Handwriting, Writing Matters, autumn 2000 & Spring 2001.

 

http://www.marcuslink.com/pens/aboutpens/ludwig-tan.html

I ride a recumbent, I play go, I use Macintosh so of course I use a fountain pen.

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I just picked up another NN pen with some calligraphy nibs. This time I may try to make a right oblique. When this is done, I will post some pictures. Thank you for the article link.

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You may have seen this. How to hand-grind an oblique or stub:

 

I enjoy the contact with other pen enthusiasts. Through correspondence with Ludwig Tan I am pleased to share with you his article on Grinding Your Own Nibs.

 

It confirms for me that grinding nibs is not something I will take up, but it is an interesting article and brings to mind the skill associated with fountain pens. May we all hope this skills are not totally lost.

 

The article was published in the journal of the Society for Italic Handwriting, Writing Matters, autumn 2000 & Spring 2001.

 

http://www.marcuslin...ludwig-tan.html

 

The article is interesting and generally useful but for one glaring omission / error. Left obliques are not solely (or even principally) for left-handed underwriters. They are best suited to the right-handed writer of cursive italic or as a general correspondence nib. I'm right-handed, have two left obliques, and third on order. Right obliques are useful for Roman lettering, Humanist, and host of hands requiring strong verticals. Small flexible right-obliques can even, with some fair difficulty, be used to write what is now called Copperplate.

Edited by Mickey

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What pens have a left oblique available? I know Lamy lists both left and right obliques for the Safari/Alstar/Studio nibs but I am unsure if anyone actually stocks them. Do you know what angle oblique your pens are? I was guessing at 15 degrees.

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]

The article is interesting and generally useful but for one glaring omission / error. Left obliques are not solely (or even principally) for left-handed underwriters. They are best suited to the right-handed writer of cursive italic or as a general correspondence nib. I'm right-handed, have two left obliques, and third on order. Right obliques are useful for Roman lettering, Humanist, and host of hands requiring strong verticals. Small flexible right-obliques can even, with some fair difficulty, be used to write what is now called Copperplate.

 

Thansk for the clarification. You may have also noticed the illustrations in the article leave a bit too much to the imagination. But I was intrigued by the idea of using my knife sharpening stones to carefully grind away some steel from some cheap nibs.

I ride a recumbent, I play go, I use Macintosh so of course I use a fountain pen.

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