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A Guide To Servicing A Sheaffer Triumph Vac Fill Fountain Pen...


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#1 grandmia

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 20:54



Hi all...Above is a video guide in servicing a Sheaffer Triumph Vac Fill fountain pen...I hope you find it informative...

#2 Ron Z

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 23:09

I'll review it more carefully again. But first comment - I do not recommend or condone the use of silicone grease non the nib threads. It does not give an adequate seal, and it makes it possible to over tighten the nib unit. Silicone grease is a lubricant, not a sealant. Bees wax or the tacky wax used for a toilet bowl sealing ring would be better if you can't or don't want to use a rosin based thread sealant.

Edited by Ron Z, 06 September 2012 - 23:24.


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#3 grandmia

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 08:01

I'll review it more carefully again. But first comment - I do not recommend or condone the use of silicone grease non the nib threads. It does not give an adequate seal, and it makes it possible to over tighten the nib unit. Silicone grease is a lubricant, not a sealant. Bees wax or the tacky wax used for a toilet bowl sealing ring would be better if you can't or don't want to use a rosin based thread sealant.

Hello Ron...I also use a modeling wax (see my Parker 65 service guide) for the nib threads.It all depends how tight the thread is when i am reinstalling the nib unit.The silicone grease works fine and makes the nib unit air tight.I think the over tightening of the nib depends on the person holding the nib and not necessarily the grease,wax or rosin that is applied.Unfortunately i do not have any rosin based sealant,therefore any donation would be kindly excepted...
Thank you for your comments...

Regards Stef.

#4 Ron Z

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 12:01

"Expected?" TANSTAFL

Edited by Ron Z, 07 September 2012 - 12:01.


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#5 Tom Heath

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 12:51

Well done easy to understand

please keep up the good work. I have viewed other u tube videos and appreciate your experiences and good camera work too
Tom Heath

#6 hari317

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 13:24

Very informative Stef. Thanks for making and sharing such top class videos.

Hari

#7 grandmia

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 15:59

"Expected?" TANSTAFL

Hi again Ron....Sorry but i do not understand your reply ? What do you mean by "Expected" TANSTAFL ?

Thanks Stef.

#8 grandmia

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 16:00

Well done easy to understand

please keep up the good work. I have viewed other u tube videos and appreciate your experiences and good camera work too
Tom Heath

Hi Tom...Im glad you have enjoyed the video....Thanks Stef.

#9 grandmia

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 16:02

Very informative Stef. Thanks for making and sharing such top class videos.

Hari

Hi Hari...Glad you find it informative and i hope it helps you....Thanks Stef.

#10 mrcharlie

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 17:14


"Expected?" TANSTAFL

Hi again Ron....Sorry but i do not understand your reply ? What do you mean by "Expected" TANSTAFL ?

You typed "excepted". I think Ron is guessing you meant Expected, and his reply means "There Ain't No Such Thing As Free Lunch".

I believe you misspelled "accepted", not "expected".

#11 Ray-Vigo

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 17:40

Silicone grease has the advantage of making the nib easier to twist off later if you have to do later work, which is nice. The problem is, as Ron says, it is a lubricant and not a sealant, and may actually facilitate the nib twisting itself off the mount at the wrong time. The sealing effect of the silicone grease is simply that it is a sludge that is squeezed into the gaps in the threads. The sealant will do that plus accomplish other work and hold fast to the gaps. The rosin-based heat release sealant is the way to go. It holds the part fast at normal temperature but when heated with a standard heat gun, melts away and leaves the threads workable for getting the nib off. The grease may work in a pinch with nothing else on hand, but I don't think it is much of a long-term or correct solution. I bought a small container of the sealant awhile back and it has replaced everything else for me in terms of sealing up the threads on vac fills, touchdowns, and snorkels.

Edited by Ray-Vigo, 07 September 2012 - 17:43.


#12 grandmia

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 18:24



"Expected?" TANSTAFL

Hi again Ron....Sorry but i do not understand your reply ? What do you mean by "Expected" TANSTAFL ?

You typed "excepted". I think Ron is guessing you meant Expected, and his reply means "There Ain't No Such Thing As Free Lunch".

I believe you misspelled "accepted", not "expected".

Hi...I think it depends who you ask for that free lunch.I have sent free bottles of shellac to members at no cost to them,and i paid the P&P costs to.I am more than happy to help other pen enthusiast were i can.Here in the UK i deal with lots of pen people who are more than happy to supply a needed part or a little advice free of charge as they know the favour will be returned.I think it is great that pen enthusiast help each other.I guess some people are in it for the money and some are more than happy to help.....

Thanks Stef.

#13 grandmia

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 18:37

Silicone grease has the advantage of making the nib easier to twist off later if you have to do later work, which is nice. The problem is, as Ron says, it is a lubricant and not a sealant, and may actually facilitate the nib twisting itself off the mount at the wrong time. The sealing effect of the silicone grease is simply that it is a sludge that is squeezed into the gaps in the threads. The sealant will do that plus accomplish other work and hold fast to the gaps. The rosin-based heat release sealant is the way to go. It holds the part fast at normal temperature but when heated with a standard heat gun, melts away and leaves the threads workable for getting the nib off. The grease may work in a pinch with nothing else on hand, but I don't think it is much of a long-term or correct solution. I bought a small container of the sealant awhile back and it has replaced everything else for me in terms of sealing up the threads on vac fills, touchdowns, and snorkels.

Hi...I am aware of the properties of silicone grease.On this pen i made the decision to use the grease rather than my modeling wax because of how tight the nib section was.The nib on this pen is not twisting anywhere,believe me.Some people use only rosin based sealant i know,but there are other alternatives if you do not have rosin.I made enquiries with a couple of renown repair men here in the UK who have no qualms using the same method,therefore if it is good enough for them then its fine by me.
Thank you for your input.
Regards Stef.

#14 Ron Z

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 20:22

You know Stef, this isn't a hobby. I earn my bread and butter repairing pens, and invest a lot of time here and elsewhere answering questions. Happy to do it, but it's more for the love of pens than the money. I don't make a heck of a lot selling thread sealant. It takes time to do, and there are out of pocket expenses for packaging and materials. But I'm happy to make it available to folks so that they can use the right materials when they repair their pens.

A small jar is $12, maybe $13 USD to the UK including P&P (that's what, 6 GBP?). The price of a couple of pints of beer in the UK. If that's a stretch for you and you really are interested in using it, I'll send you one.

Edited by Ron Z, 07 September 2012 - 20:47.


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#15 framebaer

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 21:09


Silicone grease has the advantage of making the nib easier to twist off later if you have to do later work, which is nice. The problem is, as Ron says, it is a lubricant and not a sealant, and may actually facilitate the nib twisting itself off the mount at the wrong time. The sealing effect of the silicone grease is simply that it is a sludge that is squeezed into the gaps in the threads. The sealant will do that plus accomplish other work and hold fast to the gaps. The rosin-based heat release sealant is the way to go. It holds the part fast at normal temperature but when heated with a standard heat gun, melts away and leaves the threads workable for getting the nib off. The grease may work in a pinch with nothing else on hand, but I don't think it is much of a long-term or correct solution. I bought a small container of the sealant awhile back and it has replaced everything else for me in terms of sealing up the threads on vac fills, touchdowns, and snorkels.

Hi...I am aware of the properties of silicone grease.On this pen i made the decision to use the grease rather than my modeling wax because of how tight the nib section was.The nib on this pen is not twisting anywhere,believe me.Some people use only rosin based sealant i know,but there are other alternatives if you do not have rosin.I made enquiries with a couple of renown repair men here in the UK who have no qualms using the same method,therefore if it is good enough for them then its fine by me.
Thank you for your input.
Regards Stef.


Ah yes, time for me to once again chime in here. Again for the 1000th time, silicone grease getting anywhere into the capillary path will render the nib at best a "skipper" and at worst completely non-flowing. Now the careful experienced chaps may be able to successfully apply the silicone to ONLY the threads but the chance that the hamfisted Newbie will get some in the wrong place is probably rather high.

" Hey how come I followed Grandmia's video and now my pen won't write at all?"
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#16 grandmia

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 22:16

You know Stef, this isn't a hobby. I earn my bread and butter repairing pens, and invest a lot of time here and elsewhere answering questions. Happy to do it, but it's more for the love of pens than the money. I don't make a heck of a lot selling thread sealant. It takes time to do, and there are out of pocket expenses for packaging and materials. But I'm happy to make it available to folks so that they can use the right materials when they repair their pens.

A small jar is $12, maybe $13 USD to the UK including P&P (that's what, 6 GBP?). The price of a couple of pints of beer in the UK. If that's a stretch for you and you really are interested in using it, I'll send you one.

Hi Ron...I am also trying to earn my bread and butter,but unfortunately my good nature takes over and i end up sending items at my own cost and undercharging for repairs.I must be going soft.
Thanks for the offer to purchase your thread sealant,but im sure one of my contacts here in the UK will supply me with some.

Thanks again Stef.

#17 grandmia

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 22:23



Silicone grease has the advantage of making the nib easier to twist off later if you have to do later work, which is nice. The problem is, as Ron says, it is a lubricant and not a sealant, and may actually facilitate the nib twisting itself off the mount at the wrong time. The sealing effect of the silicone grease is simply that it is a sludge that is squeezed into the gaps in the threads. The sealant will do that plus accomplish other work and hold fast to the gaps. The rosin-based heat release sealant is the way to go. It holds the part fast at normal temperature but when heated with a standard heat gun, melts away and leaves the threads workable for getting the nib off. The grease may work in a pinch with nothing else on hand, but I don't think it is much of a long-term or correct solution. I bought a small container of the sealant awhile back and it has replaced everything else for me in terms of sealing up the threads on vac fills, touchdowns, and snorkels.

Hi...I am aware of the properties of silicone grease.On this pen i made the decision to use the grease rather than my modeling wax because of how tight the nib section was.The nib on this pen is not twisting anywhere,believe me.Some people use only rosin based sealant i know,but there are other alternatives if you do not have rosin.I made enquiries with a couple of renown repair men here in the UK who have no qualms using the same method,therefore if it is good enough for them then its fine by me.
Thank you for your input.
Regards Stef.


Ah yes, time for me to once again chime in here. Again for the 1000th time, silicone grease getting anywhere into the capillary path will render the nib at best a "skipper" and at worst completely non-flowing. Now the careful experienced chaps may be able to successfully apply the silicone to ONLY the threads but the chance that the hamfisted Newbie will get some in the wrong place is probably rather high.

" Hey how come I followed Grandmia's video and now my pen won't write at all?"

Well gentlemen that didn't take long ! I will refrain from commenting on this occasion.
Have a great day Stef.

#18 OcalaFlGuy

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 02:14

Hey Stef,

A question if I might.

I've noticed that it's not unusual for you to sell on your website, pens you have "restored".

I'm curious what your warranty/return policy is for the pens you sell. I was unable to find any note of either on your Services or For Sale pages. Perhaps I just missed it.

As confident as you are in your procedures, I can't possibly imagine why you wouldn't stand fully behind all your work. :thumbup:

Bruce in Ocala, FL

#19 SheWrites

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 10:37

http://youtu.be/HmF0CnazNK4

Hi all...Above is a video guide in servicing a Sheaffer Triumph Vac Fill fountain pen...I hope you find it informative...


For myself, I think it would be infinitely more educational to actually see you dismantle the pen on camera, as I am certain that is where MY first problems would arise. You spent a great deal of time talking about what the perils of doing it incorrectly could be, but you did not even one time say which direction the threads turn to remove the nib. THAT I would have found more helpful than the discussion of the pen's coloration or the style of the nib. I am also more than a little leery of covering everything with shellac to make it stay in place, or using silicone grease as a sealant. I have purchased more than one pen touted as "fully restored" only to find that the restoration was not done as neatly or correctly as it could have been and that there is now shellac gumming up the feed or parts that have been cemented together for all eternity with shellac. Any pen that I buy must come with a full warranty or it had better be extremely inexpensive. If I were to do my own sac or filler repair or "restoration" I would not want to have it glued together making it impossible for a qualified repair person to disassemble it and do it right if the need arose. Like I said - these are only my opinions, and not being a repair person I am not criticizing your choices, only explaining how I view them as a potential pen buyer. Thank you for the information in the video that I was able to tuck away for future reference - I am sure that they (the videos) are quite time consuming to make.

You have the right to remain silent.  Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you.

#20 grandmia

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 12:24

Hey Stef,

A question if I might.

I've noticed that it's not unusual for you to sell on your website, pens you have "restored".

I'm curious what your warranty/return policy is for the pens you sell. I was unable to find any note of either on your Services or For Sale pages. Perhaps I just missed it.

As confident as you are in your procedures, I can't possibly imagine why you wouldn't stand fully behind all your work. :thumbup:

Bruce in Ocala, FL

Hello Bruce...
This reply is a little nicer than the last one,therefore i am more than happy to answer your question.
The web site is in effect still being constructed when i can find the time to update,so it is still in a very early stage.There is no details regarding warranty/return policies.
Every pen that i sell is followed up with a contact and should there be a problem then a full refund is not a problem.Of the 1000s of pens i have sold i have had only one request to return the pen from a doctor in Germany who wanted the ink flow adjusting,the pen was returned back to him at my own cost.
All my pens are restored to a level that i would expect to receive them my self.Unless there are any issues then they are mentioned in the description.
Thanks
Stef.

#21 grandmia

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 12:42


http://youtu.be/HmF0CnazNK4

Hi all...Above is a video guide in servicing a Sheaffer Triumph Vac Fill fountain pen...I hope you find it informative...


For myself, I think it would be infinitely more educational to actually see you dismantle the pen on camera, as I am certain that is where MY first problems would arise. You spent a great deal of time talking about what the perils of doing it incorrectly could be, but you did not even one time say which direction the threads turn to remove the nib. THAT I would have found more helpful than the discussion of the pen's coloration or the style of the nib. I am also more than a little leery of covering everything with shellac to make it stay in place, or using silicone grease as a sealant. I have purchased more than one pen touted as "fully restored" only to find that the restoration was not done as neatly or correctly as it could have been and that there is now shellac gumming up the feed or parts that have been cemented together for all eternity with shellac. Any pen that I buy must come with a full warranty or it had better be extremely inexpensive. If I were to do my own sac or filler repair or "restoration" I would not want to have it glued together making it impossible for a qualified repair person to disassemble it and do it right if the need arose. Like I said - these are only my opinions, and not being a repair person I am not criticizing your choices, only explaining how I view them as a potential pen buyer. Thank you for the information in the video that I was able to tuck away for future reference - I am sure that they (the videos) are quite time consuming to make.

Hi...Thank you for your reply.If i covered every thing then the video would have been even longer,so i try and cover what i think is important and keep it as short as possible.Regarding the shellac it was only used in parts were it was needed.As you have no doubt read in this post,there are different methods in "sealing the nib thread" i had no qualms using silicone grease in this video.
Sorry to hear you have had a bad experience with your "fully restored" pen,but unfortunately i cant comment on as i have not seen it or know were you purchased it.
As i have mentioned i restore my pens to a level that i would expect to receive it my self.
If you are unsure on any part of the procedure within the videos then you only need to ask.I try and encourage the viewer to leave comments,therefore if there is any thing the viewer is not sure about then i am more than happy to help.
Thank you for your views.
Regards Stef.

#22 SheWrites

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 06:58



http://youtu.be/HmF0CnazNK4

Hi all...Above is a video guide in servicing a Sheaffer Triumph Vac Fill fountain pen...I hope you find it informative...


For myself, I think it would be infinitely more educational to actually see you dismantle the pen on camera, as I am certain that is where MY first problems would arise. You spent a great deal of time talking about what the perils of doing it incorrectly could be, but you did not even one time say which direction the threads turn to remove the nib. THAT I would have found more helpful than the discussion of the pen's coloration or the style of the nib. I am also more than a little leery of covering everything with shellac to make it stay in place, or using silicone grease as a sealant. I have purchased more than one pen touted as "fully restored" only to find that the restoration was not done as neatly or correctly as it could have been and that there is now shellac gumming up the feed or parts that have been cemented together for all eternity with shellac. Any pen that I buy must come with a full warranty or it had better be extremely inexpensive. If I were to do my own sac or filler repair or "restoration" I would not want to have it glued together making it impossible for a qualified repair person to disassemble it and do it right if the need arose. Like I said - these are only my opinions, and not being a repair person I am not criticizing your choices, only explaining how I view them as a potential pen buyer. Thank you for the information in the video that I was able to tuck away for future reference - I am sure that they (the videos) are quite time consuming to make.

Hi...Thank you for your reply.If i covered every thing then the video would have been even longer,so i try and cover what i think is important and keep it as short as possible.Regarding the shellac it was only used in parts were it was needed.As you have no doubt read in this post,there are different methods in "sealing the nib thread" i had no qualms using silicone grease in this video.
Sorry to hear you have had a bad experience with your "fully restored" pen,but unfortunately i cant comment on as i have not seen it or know were you purchased it.
As i have mentioned i restore my pens to a level that i would expect to receive it my self.
If you are unsure on any part of the procedure within the videos then you only need to ask.I try and encourage the viewer to leave comments,therefore if there is any thing the viewer is not sure about then i am more than happy to help.
Thank you for your views.
Regards Stef.


I guess the point I was trying to make was that "A Guide To Servicing A Sheaffer Triumph Vac Fill Fountain Pen" doesn't really need a discussion of the color of the pen or the style of the nib, but that a set of clear instructions for disassembling the pen could reasonably be something that you might expect to see. It seemed to me to be more of an advertisement for a pen that you were hoping to sell with that video than a guide to servicing a pen. If I am wrong, I apologize, but it was nowhere near as informative as your title led me to expect. And I DID leave a comment and still I do not know which direction those threads go, do I?

You have the right to remain silent.  Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you.

#23 grandmia

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 13:03




http://youtu.be/HmF0CnazNK4

Hi all...Above is a video guide in servicing a Sheaffer Triumph Vac Fill fountain pen...I hope you find it informative...


For myself, I think it would be infinitely more educational to actually see you dismantle the pen on camera, as I am certain that is where MY first problems would arise. You spent a great deal of time talking about what the perils of doing it incorrectly could be, but you did not even one time say which direction the threads turn to remove the nib. THAT I would have found more helpful than the discussion of the pen's coloration or the style of the nib. I am also more than a little leery of covering everything with shellac to make it stay in place, or using silicone grease as a sealant. I have purchased more than one pen touted as "fully restored" only to find that the restoration was not done as neatly or correctly as it could have been and that there is now shellac gumming up the feed or parts that have been cemented together for all eternity with shellac. Any pen that I buy must come with a full warranty or it had better be extremely inexpensive. If I were to do my own sac or filler repair or "restoration" I would not want to have it glued together making it impossible for a qualified repair person to disassemble it and do it right if the need arose. Like I said - these are only my opinions, and not being a repair person I am not criticizing your choices, only explaining how I view them as a potential pen buyer. Thank you for the information in the video that I was able to tuck away for future reference - I am sure that they (the videos) are quite time consuming to make.

Hi...Thank you for your reply.If i covered every thing then the video would have been even longer,so i try and cover what i think is important and keep it as short as possible.Regarding the shellac it was only used in parts were it was needed.As you have no doubt read in this post,there are different methods in "sealing the nib thread" i had no qualms using silicone grease in this video.
Sorry to hear you have had a bad experience with your "fully restored" pen,but unfortunately i cant comment on as i have not seen it or know were you purchased it.
As i have mentioned i restore my pens to a level that i would expect to receive it my self.
If you are unsure on any part of the procedure within the videos then you only need to ask.I try and encourage the viewer to leave comments,therefore if there is any thing the viewer is not sure about then i am more than happy to help.
Thank you for your views.
Regards Stef.


I guess the point I was trying to make was that "A Guide To Servicing A Sheaffer Triumph Vac Fill Fountain Pen" doesn't really need a discussion of the color of the pen or the style of the nib, but that a set of clear instructions for disassembling the pen could reasonably be something that you might expect to see. It seemed to me to be more of an advertisement for a pen that you were hoping to sell with that video than a guide to servicing a pen. If I am wrong, I apologize, but it was nowhere near as informative as your title led me to expect. And I DID leave a comment and still I do not know which direction those threads go, do I?

The video was a guide to the servicing of the said pen followed by a quick review as i have lots of request from viewers who want to see the pen writing.I thought the video actually shows that the nib was screwed on with a right hand thread.Therefore i would have thought it was self explanatory that it was unscrewed with a right hand thread.I have checked the video and i see no comment from you so unfortunately i could not answer your query regarding the "thread".
The video does not mention anything about the pen being for sale,however i do get lots of emails and personal messages asking me if the pens are available for sale.This pen is now with its new owner who is delighted with the pen and is writing with it on a daily basis.Quality pens like these do not have problem finding new homes.
Sorry that the video is not to your liking however "You can please all the people some of the time, and some of the people all the time, but you cannot please all the people all the time."

Regards
Stef.

#24 Ron Z

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 14:02

The web site is in effect still being constructed when i can find the time to update,so it is still in a very early stage.There is no details regarding warranty/return policies.


The advice that I was given when I was first rolling out the web site was "you must have a policies page," so it was one of the first built and was posted from day one. I found it interesting that when I applied to add a credit card service, one of the first questions that they asked was "do you have a warranty and return policy, and what is it? Do you have it on a web site?" I actually had to provide the link for the page. The implication being that this was a rhetorical question; that they expected that a business would have one and have it published.


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#25 grandmia

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 16:52

The web site is in effect still being constructed when i can find the time to update,so it is still in a very early stage.There is no details regarding warranty/return policies.


The advice that I was given when I was first rolling out the web site was "you must have a policies page," so it was one of the first built and was posted from day one. I found it interesting that when I applied to add a credit card service, one of the first questions that they asked was "do you have a warranty and return policy, and what is it? Do you have it on a web site?" I actually had to provide the link for the page. The implication being that this was a rhetorical question; that they expected that a business would have one and have it published.

Hello Ron...The site is by no means finished and needs the time to update it.I am not having it built by a professional and unfortunately i am not the most computer literate person although i don't think its to bad for my first attempt.Hopefully one day it will be finished,but until then i will make do.
Thanks for the advice.

Regards Stef.

#26 Freddy

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 17:10

Fascinating Read... .

Fred
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#27 Ron Z

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 17:21

Curious then - how do you find the time to do all those videos? You must have close to 70 of them. Do you shoot, edit and post them yourself?

There's some great software out there that lets you create and edit/update a website very easily - it's free too. I haven't had anyone else update anything on my site since 2006.


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#28 grandmia

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 17:56

Curious then - how do you find the time to do all those videos? You must have close to 70 of them. Do you shoot, edit and post them yourself?

There's some great software out there that lets you create and edit/update a website very easily - it's free too. I haven't had anyone else update anything on my site since 2006.

Hello Ron
Exactly,were do i find time ? I must admit i do enjoy doing the videos and yes they all done by me ?
I have quite a few ideas that i would like to try but its a little harder if your not a computer whizz kid.I am actually starting a course this week so hopefully i will be a lot wiser once finished.

Thanks
Stef.

#29 gmberg

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 00:02

http://youtu.be/HmF0CnazNK4

Hi all...Above is a video guide in servicing a Sheaffer Triumph Vac Fill fountain pen...I hope you find it informative...

Hi Stef:

I've done I don't know how many hundreds of Sheaffer plunger-filler restorations, so I was really interested in seeing how someone else approached it. I wrote an article on such matters,"The Re-birth of Sheaffer's One Stroke Plunger-filler", for the Spring 2009 issue of Pennant, a publication of the Pen collectors of America, but I had very little knowledge about how these repairs were done outside of the U.S. The only knowledge of U.K.practices I learned from some brief discussions with Laurence Oldfield (he mentions one of our discussions in his pen repair handbook).

For me, the most interesting thing about your method concerns the packing unit (="capsule" in Marshall/Oldfield). First, I would have thought that the shellac you use to cement the unit into the barrel would not stand up to the severe stresses of repeated refilling and of changing weather over many seasons. Marshall/Oldfield use "epoxy". On this side of the puddle, I use acetone to create a fusion or weld, and I believe Nishimura and Zorn do the same. Do you find that shellac works over the long run?

Second, I note that the O-ring is glued into the packing unit with rubber cement and that no sealing ring (or "spacer")is inserted into the unit over the the O-ring. This would seem to leave about half of the unit empty. Under the "considerable forces that act" around it during filling (Marshall/Oldfield, 2nd ed., p.101), wouldn't the O-ring move around a bit, especially since rubber cement never becomes rigid, and it flexes a lot? This would seem to allow the seal eventually to degrade, as air under pressure escapes around the lone and moveable O-ring. Here again, I use acetone to cement a styrene "spacer" (Marshall/Oldfield, or "closing ring" (Nishimura), over the O-ring. This fills the packing unit tightly and holds the O-ring rigidly in place. It produces a seal that will last for many years with little maintenence.

Of course, the technique I outline above and in my article is more labor intensive than the one in your video. That is why I find your video so attractive. If only I could be convinced that your method would produce a seal that is durable over the years, I would adopt it in a flash!

Many thanks for any insights you can offer me.

Cheers,
Gerry

Edited by gmberg, 11 September 2012 - 00:29.


#30 grandmia

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 08:07


http://youtu.be/HmF0CnazNK4

Hi all...Above is a video guide in servicing a Sheaffer Triumph Vac Fill fountain pen...I hope you find it informative...

Hi Stef:

I've done I don't know how many hundreds of Sheaffer plunger-filler restorations, so I was really interested in seeing how someone else approached it. I wrote an article on such matters,"The Re-birth of Sheaffer's One Stroke Plunger-filler", for the Spring 2009 issue of Pennant, a publication of the Pen collectors of America, but I had very little knowledge about how these repairs were done outside of the U.S. The only knowledge of U.K.practices I learned from some brief discussions with Laurence Oldfield (he mentions one of our discussions in his pen repair handbook).

For me, the most interesting thing about your method concerns the packing unit (="capsule" in Marshall/Oldfield). First, I would have thought that the shellac you use to cement the unit into the barrel would not stand up to the severe stresses of repeated refilling and of changing weather over many seasons. Marshall/Oldfield use "epoxy". On this side of the puddle, I use acetone to create a fusion or weld, and I believe Nishimura and Zorn do the same. Do you find that shellac works over the long run?

Second, I note that the O-ring is glued into the packing unit with rubber cement and that no sealing ring (or "spacer")is inserted into the unit over the the O-ring. This would seem to leave about half of the unit empty. Under the "considerable forces that act" around it during filling (Marshall/Oldfield, 2nd ed., p.101), wouldn't the O-ring move around a bit, especially since rubber cement never becomes rigid, and it flexes a lot? This would seem to allow the seal eventually to degrade, as air under pressure escapes around the lone and moveable O-ring. Here again, I use acetone to cement a styrene "spacer" (Marshall/Oldfield, or "closing ring" (Nishimura), over the O-ring. This fills the packing unit tightly and holds the O-ring rigidly in place. It produces a seal that will last for many years with little maintenence.

Of course, the technique I outline above and in my article is more labor intensive than the one in your video. That is why I find your video so attractive. If only I could be convinced that your method would produce a seal that is durable over the years, I would adopt it in a flash!

Many thanks for any insights you can offer me.

Cheers,
Gerry

Hi Gerry
First and foremost the video is a guide for the less experienced members who do not have the tools or the special potions that the professionals have and use.This in not a video aimed at you professional repair people to adopt a different method that you are already using.
I find that shellac works fine for the packing unit and will hold for many years to come,and will allow the unit to be removed if ever it is needed in the future.It was removed successfuly after soaking and heat,however if it was "fused or welded" i doubt i would have been able to remove it.If that would have been the case then the felt washers would have had to be removed from inside the barrel which i feel is a far less stable repair.As is the "rammed rubber washer" method you refer to (Marshall/Oldfield p 101).
The rubber cement holding the O ring is literary packed before the O ring replacement then after the O ring is installed more cement is packed inside (but not in the centre hole) and therefore the unit is completely full.There is absolute no movement of the O ring and therefore no were for air pressure to move inside the unit apart from the centre hole itself.
On occasions i will use the spacer when i find the materials of the packing unit or the top plastic washer has been damaged or have deteriorated.Each pen is different and the method i adopt may differ slightly as i look at each pen on its own merit.Hence the use of silicone grease to the nib unit as the threads were quite tight,if it was quite loose then no doubt another method would have been called for.
If your method is labour intensive but it works for you,then why change it ? As i said this is more of a guide for the inexperienced to watch and decide whether they would attempt the repair themselves or send the pen to you to repair.If the video helps someone then i'm more than happy.
Thanks for watching and for your comments.
Regards Stef.