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Nib Slit Adjustment


WOBentley

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Hi All,

I recently got a guider jumbo which I was told had some flooding problems. On close inspection it appears that ink comes down the feed but does not actually "wick" into the nib so it has nowhere to go but ...bloop!

The reason (OK maybe one reason) appears to be that there is essentially no space between the tines of the nib. If I apply some pressure when writing it writes just fine...no pressure= no flow. Looking through my loupes with the nib held up to a light... I see no light coming through. I think I need to open the tines a little bit...my question is...how to safely do this?

I don't really want to send it out to a nib meister without at least an initial gentle attempt...

Any help/suggestions greatly appreciated!

Edited by WOBentley

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Hi All,

I recently got a guider jumbo which I was told had some flooding problems. On close inspection it appears that ink comes down the feed but does not actually "wick" into the nib so it has nowhere to go but ...bloop!

The reason (OK maybe one reason) appears to be that there is essentially no space between the tines of the nib. If I apply some pressure when writing it writes just fine...no pressure= no flow. Looking through my loupes with the nib held up to a light... I see no light coming through. I think I need to open the tines a little bit...my question is...how to safely do this?

I don't really want to send it out to a nib meister without at least an initial gentle attempt...

Any help/suggestions greatly appreciated!

 

 

A useful starting point may be attached from the Fountain Pen Museum:

 

http://www.penmuseum.co.uk/master%202.htm

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I do like in the picture on John Mottishaw's site and push up against the shoulders with my thumbs...

http://www.nibs.com/Article6.html

 

Very bottom picture.

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Hi All,

I recently got a guider jumbo which I was told had some flooding problems. On close inspection it appears that ink comes down the feed but does not actually "wick" into the nib so it has nowhere to go but ...bloop!

 

These symptoms indicate that maybe there are two separate problems. The ink will drop out only if these is a passage for the air to enter the ink reservoir.

 

Remove the nib and feed. adjust the slit of the nib. now check if the nib and feed are a good tight fit into the section. inspect against a strong light to see that there are no annular spaces around the nib and feed after they are fitted to the section.

 

make sure to apply silicone grease to the section threads to eliminate air entry from this area.

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All great advice...I guess I need to empty the ink out and get to work!

Thanks!

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OK here is an update and a few more questions...

The tines are a bit more resistant to separating than I expected...don't want to pull too hard (and I have large hands so it is a bit awkward!).

As far as the section/nib/feeder fit...it is a friction fit (of course) it does not feel overly tight and I pulled it out without first checking to see if it was fully seated...so I don't know if that was an issue. I only see light coming through the feed channel when reassembled...can one use a sealer around the nib end of the feed once seated to try to eliminate air entry? Somthig like shellac? Or is there too much risk it will clog the feed channel?

I will try one more time on the nib tines...but I am only willing to pull just so hard...wish I had a local nibmeister!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ink will not flow if the slit is closed OR if it is too wide (it relies on capillary action). There is a window of adjustment between the two which will allow ink to flow and also allows the wetness to be varied. A good starting point is if you can just see clear daylight all the way up to the tips. Widening the gap is easier than narrowing it - you can just push a Stanley knife blade between the tips for a steel nib, although you probably want to be a bit more cautious with a solid gold one. As with all nib adjustments, ensure the tips are perfectly flush with each other afterwards, or the pen will be very scratchy.

 

You need a good lens for any nib tweaking. An SLR camera lens is fine.

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I'm no expert, as my forum name would suggest, but I don't think I'd put any width 'blade' between the tine tips of a nib. I have seen the suggestion to use micrometer-thickness 'shims' as spacers to widen the gap but only if they are inserted back at the breather hole separation of the nib. This allows the tines to widen at the tip with the widening at the breather hole gap, but much less than what inserting a blade between the tip of the tines.

 

If I'm incorrect on this, I ask the more knowledgeable to voice their views.

250437_189318464453433_100001258437392_556898_3480999_s.jpg From citizen soldier to flying pigs, gotta love the 'nati 248291_189317704453509_100001258437392_556895_5070930_s.jpg
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A Stanley blade or a scalpel are fine - they have a lot of taper. Gently insert it just a bit and wiggle ever-so-slightly. Check the flow, and repeat if necessary.

 

You need a steady hand, and a magnifier of some sort; practice on a junker nib first....

Cordially,

 

===== Serge D. =====

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